Soldering up the V2.2 board
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi, just assembling one of Ben H's Megasquirt kits.

Firstly wanna say that the effort thats gone into bagging/labelling all the components is much, much appreciated, and makes the job much simpler.

Being a novice at soldering, some of you guys will probably be able to point out my error, but has anyone found some of the circuit boards holes are a little bit too small for some of the components leads?

I.e. D13, the lead on the unbanded side of the diode cant fit through the circuit boards hole.

Whats the solution to this?

Cheers in advance

Jo

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Ignore me, I had the wrong hole!!

Sorry!!

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

yes yes, har har "oops the wrong hole!"

LOL

but where the hell is C21!

This is like 'Wheres Wolly' and 'Paint by Numbers' put together!!

good fun tho..

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

On the instructions it highlights the components to be soldered for each section. I always refer to that when loking for components on the board as it narrors it down to just a few instead of the whole board.

glad you are enjoying the build. The first one is quite a learning curve.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

LOL, it took me nearly 20 mins to find C21, was getting a bit snowblind at that poin!

gonna treat myself to a more delicate soldering irn and solder tomorrow when the shop open.

jeez im pissed

jo

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Hi, back again, I presume that, as im intending you use edis, that ill have to jumper H1??

Also, Im having a few problems with testing the serial port, ive got one of those usb adapters, if the adapter doesnt work, what will the syptoms be?

Ive plugged the adapter into my laptop, and jumpered pins 2 and 3, but everytime it flashes up with an error message saying that:

"Windows has reported a TAPI error (8000048). Us ethe phone and modem options icon to ensure the modem is connected correctly."

Does anyone know if this is due to me installing the USB to serial adapter wrong? or is this what happens when you use and incompatible adapter?

Cheers for any light shed on the matter.

Jo

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Firstly, if you have downloaded my instructions:

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk/megasquirt/ down load MegaManual From Ben.doc

Then look at the end of the document. I have included the instructions for the EDIS. Throught the document I highlight at which steps you should looking at the EDIS section.

I have never used the USB adapter, I have an old laptop. I would try questions like that on the msefi.com forum as there are lots of people who have tried this.

Ben

Edited by Ben H on 15th Apr, 2006.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

Cheers Ben, will go have a read through the threads on there.

Yep, gradually going through your guide step by step, and i might add that its tip top so far.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

I haven't built a V2.2 board. I have built a V3 board, and found it was very straightfoward.

It does help a lot if you print out the component placement sheet in colour, and pin it to a spot where you can easily see it at your soldering bench.

Also, I'd invest in a cheap laptop- not much more expensive than a USB-serial adapter.

I paid 60 quid for a PII based IBM Thinkpad, and it runs Megatune like a dream.

Plus if it gets a bump you won't be too pissed.

Andy

Yeah, im keeping my eyes peeled on ebay for an oldun.

This might sound a little daft, but as I have no stimulator, doing it on the cheap, should I go ahead and just build up the whole board?

All the checks it does along the way arent vital are they? If my soldering is up to scratch i shouldnt need to do them?

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

I built my first few without the stimulator and they are all fine. I did check bits that I could along the way. For example you can shect the inputs (not the ingnition) using resistors.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

Good stuff, Im watching a stimulator on ebay as we speak, if it doesnt go over £20 smackers I might have a cheeky bid.

My mates were round last night, one of them needed to look something up on net, and one of the searches id done recently was 'Megasquirt Stimulator'.
You can imagine what they thought!!
Needless to say Ive now got a new nickname.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

I donated, but somehow didn't get the label! :(

Not all the USB converters work...

its better with a true serial cable - which is actually a mouse extention in effect!

Alex

AlexF

im keeping my eye out on ebay for a cheapo laptop with serial, seen a few with damaged screens (just a few dead pixels which wouldnt bother me) go for about £30 which aint bad.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Use these USB serial adaptars at work to avoid carrying large docking station.They usually assign themselves as COM 5.

So you need to go into Control Panel/Device Manager/Properties
and disable the laptops COM 1 and reasign your adaptor to COM 1.

Or assign the software your using to match the adaptor in my case COM 5.But older sofware sometimes only gives you the option of COM1 or COM2.

Best bet maybe to search ebay for a suitable docking station for your laptop.

Hope this helps and if it messes up go in safe mode and change everything back

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Sorry, got another Q for your wiz kids...:)

Did you guys jumper XG1 and XG2?

im a bit confused, read through the build guide so many times and seem to get more kerfuddled everytime.

Bought an old, but mint, Compaq Armada 1120 for £30 with a load of other gubbins, so that will hopefully sort my com problems.

cheers guys

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

oh and am i using a fidle output? im sue i am but reassurance would be great.

cheers again

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Hi Jo,

I have tried to make it clear in my document.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk/megasquirt/Meg...0From%20Ben.doc

Basically everytime you come across a component that needs removing later on for the EDIS I have hilighted it and said not to put it on. Then at the end of the document it has all the info about the edis extras. This is what it says:

"1a) If using FIDLE output:
. Remove D9. Solder a 1k resistor between the left (non band) end of D9 and the small hole above D9 (+5v). [Resistor can be 1k to 10k - it is a pull-up to +5V on the SAW output (explanation)]

. Connect DB37 pin 30 (FIDLE) to SAW on the EDIS module **It can be very useful to install a plug and socket in this line**


2)
. Remove D5, D8, R10
. Remove jumper between XG1-XG2
. Fit wire between XG1 and right of D5 (non band)
. Fit wire between bottom of R10 and right of D9 (band)
. Fit 1.3k resistor in place D8 [1.3k-2k ok, function as above] "


So XG1 and XG2 are not jumpered, but XG1 is used to jumper to the non-band end of D5.

Hope that is clear.

Ben

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

awesome, cheers ben, just rectified that bad bay and i guess im done! :)

Just looking at what i have left over from the kit (i.e. what presumably i dont need for an edis application)

Quantity x Baggy ID:
1 x R10 (definately leftover)
2 x R1, R2, R9, R13, R16, R25, R28, Edis (definately leftover)
2 x D5, D9, D12, D13, D14, D20, D22, D23 (definately leftover)
5 x D1, D2, D3, D4, D8, D11 (definately leftover)
but...
1 x R11, edis (Im not sure about this one, ive installed R11, but not sure where the other goes...should it be spare?)

Any light shed on the matter would be greatly appreciated.

jo

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Little hint for soldering..... use leaded solder..... not that new Rohs/ weee directive compliant SHITE!!!