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Home > Beginners Tech > Converting an mpi engine | |||||||
84 Posts Member #: 835 Advanced Member Grimsby N.E. Lincs |
3rd Sep, 2019 at 12:53:13pm
Morning fellas.
1986 renault 5 gt turbo
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256 Posts Member #: 11017 Senior Member Shropshire |
3rd Sep, 2019 at 01:53:51pm
On 3rd Sep, 2019 slammed 66 said:
Morning fellas. I’ve just got back into minis again and I’m wanting to build a turbo motor for a future project. I’ve got some parts left from my old clubby turbo from about 15 years ago so they should help with the build. What I’ve bought is a ‘98 mpi engine that’s been sat for years since the bottom end started knocking. My plan is to have it bored +20 for a 1293 capacity. From my parts stash I’ve got: T3 turbo Inlet manifold Modified plenum elbow A couple of old oil drains Turbo carb. Modified metro turbo head I realise that I’ll need a crank grind, new shells, turbo oil pump, exhaust manifold, fpr. What pistons should I be looking for? Ideally I’d like 150bhp. Also rods, will the mpi rods be ok or should I look for metro turbo rods or others? Oil feed and return: what’s the score with these? If anyone has pics to help my simple mind absorb the info it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance. Ross First of all, remember the MPi block doesn't have a dizzy, so you will need an appropriate ECU to sort the ignition side of it. As you're using the MPi block, you'll also have to pass the emissions for the car of the year, which may prove difficult on a carb. If you went A+ dizzy block, this whole thing will be so much easier. The T3 is an old hat turbo, I really would consider something like a GT1752. Either way, your oil drain will be bellow the cam angle sensor hole to be able to use it effectively as a return. I had a dash 10 fitting tig welded to the gearbox casing. The turbo head may cause issues with mounting the alternator as its mounted to the head on the MPi. So unless you keep the alternator in the MPi location, you'll have to go side mounted radiator and ditch the front mount (which will be easier). Pistons - it's usually accepted that Omega cast or forged are great, but you'll need to work out what compression ratio you intend to go for then work it back as Omega cast are 10cc crowns and forged are 18cc. Rods - Mpi/A+ are fine, they'll take good power. Oil feed - I take mine from the oil gallery at the front of the block. Steve's opinion - buy an A+ block and take over all your internal parts over. Go side mounted radiator. |
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10021 Posts Member #: 1456 Mongo Barnsley, South Flatcapshire |
3rd Sep, 2019 at 02:00:33pm
For 150bhp I'd be going for the 10cc cast omega pistons from MED.
If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of. |
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84 Posts Member #: 835 Advanced Member Grimsby N.E. Lincs |
3rd Sep, 2019 at 03:11:45pm
Thanks for the replies fellas. Steve has really pointed out the flaw in my plan with the distributor.
1986 renault 5 gt turbo
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256 Posts Member #: 11017 Senior Member Shropshire |
3rd Sep, 2019 at 03:18:07pm
Ross, if you're interested in selling the engine, head and ancillaries in the future, I maybe interested! |
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2094 Posts Member #: 9894 Post Whore Dorking |
3rd Sep, 2019 at 05:19:42pm
If you are wanting to run that much power it would be worthwhile going to mapable ignition and binning the old dizzy. You'll get more out of the motor. |
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7265 Posts Member #: 1268 The Boom Boom speaker Police! Essex |
3rd Sep, 2019 at 08:16:10pm
It’s worth every penny and the extra effort to get mappable ignition.
In the 13's at last!.. Just |
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167 Posts Member #: 11091 Advanced Member |
12th Sep, 2019 at 12:33:05pm
Best advice I found for converting your mpi block, don’t try and do the oil return to the camshaft position sensor! It’s too high really
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2629 Posts Member #: 1246 Post Whore Lowestoft, Suffolk. |
12th Sep, 2019 at 09:28:30pm
This is an option for oil drainage, granted this is on my K Build....
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3004 Posts Member #: 2500 Post Whore Buckinghamshire |
13th Sep, 2019 at 09:25:17am
Definitely get mappable ignition or you will be handicapping yourself in the power/drivability of an engine making 150bhp.
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