KnockBlock G4 vs det cans
Turbo Mini Forums

Any real life experiences of the knockblock compared to det cans? Apart from the LED output (which could be great if it REALLY is able to be set and ‘tuned’ as easily as it suggests) what do you really gain? I can see a benefit in having a knock sensor permanently bolted to the engine, allowing it to be plugged into any time, but it’s not like it’s a time consuming job bolting in det cans.

https://www.linkecu.com/knockblock-explained/

http://www.enginelogics.com/wp-content/upl.../knockblock.pdf

see j and s safeguard dave , i use it and i like it .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

I've used lots of electronic devices...and the biggest problem with them all is background noise. Yes they all claim some filtering etc etc...but they're still bloody loud.

Cheap DIY stethoscope style cans are a little more clumsy to use because of needing a pipe run into the cabin, and I would also say overall, the noise you want to hear is quieter. But...picking up and isolating detonation IMO is much easier. But use a good quality pair of ear defenders to really isolate outside noises.

Although electronic devices do have the ability to give visual or other warnings, which is a useful feature cant be ignored, or to record/log etc etc. But then any decent ecu these days should already offer that.
And a decent ecu would also then be able to react to what is detected and do something about it in real time

The old Knocklink, whilst quite simple, was actually a pretty damn good visual warning. Not sure if it's still available

Phormula's KS3 and KS4 also quite good and although I do use their little orange block for listening, it really does suffer from background noise.

I havent used the Knockblock itself, but I'm sure it'd be pretty similar to the Phormula.

Plex's https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor/

is another very good one covering visual, audio and logging aspects. But it is pricey. And although the audio side is well filtered....actual audible knock via headphones is also very quiet.
I have one, although TBH have only used it a few times. Ideally you'd hook it up with an rpm trigger and map sensor input. So for doing car to car, it's a little more clumsy. And ideally you'd also be using the laptop, rather than on screen...which when typically tuning with the laptop, again, makes things a little more clumsy having 2 sets of software running. But it is a very good device.
And dont buy cheap chinese map sensors to use. I bought one of the chinese 4 bar GM style off ebay to use with the unit and the bloody thing melted and fell apart on the engine lol.


Really if it is for tuning and you are not driving, the plain and simple DIY cans really are bloody good.

But with all of the audio based devices, you really do need to know what you're listening for before you'll easily be able to detect it. And even doing it for years, some of the aforementioned electronic devices...I've still struggled if it's a particularly noisy engine.

By noisy that could be lifters, pistons, injectors, drivetrain etc etc. You really do hear lots of background noises.
The DIY tube method really does mute a lot of those.

J&S have been around for a long time, but ultimately even that will still require the user to do manual calibration to ensure the electronic side is working correctly.

Edited by stevieturbo on 18th Oct, 2018.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

I’m first going to try fabricating a different set of det cans, maybe using a thicker hose, maybe with additional insulation, and trying smaller bore hose.
I’ve seem the J&S before, but it seems like the same model that was made and sold 15 years ago?
The knockblock is newer tech, and also 25% cheaper than the J&S.

J&S is a control unit, not just a listening device though.

J&S hooks up to your ignition to give a form of knock control when it believes knock as been detected.

They have a few different models to cover different types of ignition.

But for DIY....just get a really good set of ear defenders, proper 3M stuff and run small hoses into them.
Last pair I made I got a cheap stethoscope and cut off the metal bits and drilled through the 3M and glued those bits in, which then gave a decent hose attachment.

Then the usual metal tube bolted to the block, and some 10mm hose run in through the bulkhead to hook up to them.

It isnt overly easy to make them super comfortable though because the hoses tend to be a little bulky. Silicone hose is handier as it's very flexible though
But a good set of 3M defenders will really isolate you from the outside world.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

Well, I used 1/4” ID hose in my last set, and all I could hear was droning noise. I guess I’ll coninue experimenting!

I dont think hose size is a big issue. Mine is 10mm on the block into the car, then it tees into the smaller hoses into each earpiece. drilled through side of the defenders and also a hole poked through the foam inside so the tube has a clear path to the ear.

I've used smaller and larger hose, I just happened to have a lot of 10mm lying about and the pipe I bolted to the block was 10mm

Really, you wont hear an awful lot under normal operation. And the detonation will sound like a quiet but dull splat/tick sound.

You'd be listening for the irregular noise or tick against the regular background noise.

As said, the hard bit for first time use, is actually finding out what you need to be listening for, with the problem being you need to induce knock so you can hear it to know what to listen for.

Edited by stevieturbo on 19th Oct, 2018.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will