Donations towards server fund so far this month.

 
£0.00 / £100.00 per month
Page:
Home > General Chat > K1100 auto subframe.

pickupmad87

15 Posts
Member #: 10647
Member

hi there

doing a bit of research before i start to build my engine and have read in places that standard bonnet fitment can be an issue, had read somewhere that you could use a automatic subby and mount it lower. could someone in the know eloborate on this sligly whats involved etc?

many thanks.


TurboDave16V
Forum Mod

10980 Posts
Member #: 17
***16***

SouthPark, Colorado

it's pretty easy to modify your own frame. Basically cut out where the mounts go, and plate on the outside of the holes. This drops the engine by a shade under 1/2". If you want 1/2", simply space out the plates by 0.5mm each side before welding into place...

Edited by TurboDave16V on 6th Dec, 2016.

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



matty

User Avatar

8297 Posts
Member #: 408
Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

I am fairly certain sprocket did this to his build? Maybe worth looking through his build thread. I think it is just a case of redrilling the mounting holes on the auto subframe lower down as the frame itself is slightly wider at the engine mounting point, so the rubber mounts sit lower in the taper of the frame. I was going to do this to mine, but after drilling a million holes in my manual subframe I decided I couldn't face doing it again. :) if you need a frame I have a good solid frame here, that I no longer need.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


adcyork

User Avatar

539 Posts
Member #: 6807
Post Whore

York

I've used an auto subframe. The side spars of the frame are too wide to just drop the engine through the frame and redrill the holes, it would sit too low. So a couple of 2mm thick spacers were used on mine which dropped the engine about 15mm. Then the holes were drilled in the new location.

Chopping and and plating the mount area on manual frame to widen the mount position would achieve the same result

Edited by adcyork on 6th Dec, 2016.


Nathan1293

45 Posts
Member #: 11153
Member

This is a good modification, but be careful if you run your car very low. The reason for this is if you just lower your car your ncrease the angle of the drive shafts in the cv pot joints. Lowering the engine will further increase this angle.

Saying that this is a popular mod that racers use to lower the centre of gravity.


pickupmad87

15 Posts
Member #: 10647
Member

I thats where my auto subframe from home ended up think my old man sold it to you with the front bulkhead down in surrey?


On 6th Dec, 2016 matty said:
I am fairly certain sprocket did this to his build? Maybe worth looking through his build thread. I think it is just a case of redrilling the mounting holes on the auto subframe lower down as the frame itself is slightly wider at the engine mounting point, so the rubber mounts sit lower in the taper of the frame. I was going to do this to mine, but after drilling a million holes in my manual subframe I decided I couldn't face doing it again. :) if you need a frame I have a good solid frame here, that I no longer need.


pickupmad87

15 Posts
Member #: 10647
Member

thanks for the info guys!


pickupmad87

15 Posts
Member #: 10647
Member

thanks for the info guys!


jamestar

User Avatar

489 Posts
Member #: 9159
Senior Member

Devon

There is someone selling an already modified auto subframe on tmf, should save you some work?


matty

User Avatar

8297 Posts
Member #: 408
Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury




On 6th Dec, 2016 pickupmad87 said:
I thats where my auto subframe from home ended up think my old man sold it to you with the front bulkhead down in surrey?


On 6th Dec, 2016 matty said:
I am fairly certain sprocket did this to his build? Maybe worth looking through his build thread. I think it is just a case of redrilling the mounting holes on the auto subframe lower down as the frame itself is slightly wider at the engine mounting point, so the rubber mounts sit lower in the taper of the frame. I was going to do this to mine, but after drilling a million holes in my manual subframe I decided I couldn't face doing it again. :) if you need a frame I have a good solid frame here, that I no longer need.


Haha yes he did! I needed a manual subframe and I didn't realise that was an auto one at the time. I kept hold of it to use on mine, but I will never get round to it. Your welcome to buy it back, it has been dry stored since.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


pickupmad87

15 Posts
Member #: 10647
Member

ah okay mate. you down this way at all soon?


matty

User Avatar

8297 Posts
Member #: 408
Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

I don't have any trips planned your way at the moment. My workshop is only about 10mins from junction 7 off the M40 though, so not too far from you.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


pickupmad87

15 Posts
Member #: 10647
Member

can you pm me your mobile number and ill give u a ring tomoz and sort something out?


pickupmad87

15 Posts
Member #: 10647
Member

can you pm me your mobile number and ill give u a ring tomoz and sort something out?


matty

User Avatar

8297 Posts
Member #: 408
Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

Will do.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


jayme

User Avatar

84 Posts
Member #: 10547
Advanced Member

Northern Ireland

When you cut the inner plate from around the subframe mounting holes and add plating to the outside, do you then need to re-drill the holes in a lower position?

Ive been fighting with mine to try get the bonnet to sit flush for some time now

Instagram: bighill93


TurboDave16V
Forum Mod

10980 Posts
Member #: 17
***16***

SouthPark, Colorado

Yes. I made a jig that sits on a 1/2" spacer on top of the subframe.
Plates welded to it aligned with the current holes. That meant I just cut the hole, removed the spacers, and had the perfect location for the engine mounts (and spacing between the subframe sides) to be re-drilled to...
I also pulled my engine forward by 5mm at the same time; although a small amount, it'll make a world of difference.

Edited by TurboDave16V on 10th Dec, 2016.

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



jayme

User Avatar

84 Posts
Member #: 10547
Advanced Member

Northern Ireland

Would you happen to have a pic of that Dave?

I ended up notching my cross-member to move the engine back as far as I can. Purely want to drop it down with the hope it gives me more room to play with.



Instagram: bighill93

Home > General Chat > K1100 auto subframe.
Users viewing this thread: none. (+ 1 Guests)  
To post messages you must be logged in!
Username: Password:
Page: