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Adam_R

603 Posts
Member #: 1938
Post Whore

near Dundee

so i need to get a drill set, a quick trip to machine mart revealed that we are quite a bit out of touch. titanium,hss and diamond.
tbh I've no idea what the best bet is.

im not shy to spend on quality but I'm not sure what would be the best to buy for occasional metal use, sometimes thing sheet and sometimes thicker.


Any ideas or recommendations


Brett

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9502 Posts
Member #: 1023
Post Whore

Doncaster, South Yorkshire

hand drill? hand drill will eventually kill any drill bit cheap or not, imo

i have got a decent set of hss fine on anything but stainless... now i have a decent pillar drill i will be investing is some cobolt steel ( on a recommendation)
i understand these are the dogs bollox

but imo its the un stability and movement / wabble in a hand held drill that blunts the drill bits
also dont use too many rpm, decent lube is a must when boring out a tight hole *happy*

just thought i have a good range of titanium bits too used only in the lathe and pillar drill had them ages and there lasting well,

Edited by Brett on 9th Oct, 2016.

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

Instagram @jdm_brett


Mike-998

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882 Posts
Member #: 9774
Post Whore

Buckinghamshire

Possibly a useful vid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7BbrjoftJA
[plus have a look at some of his others, absolutely brilliant]

As brett says, whatever you use won't last too long in a hand drill because you can't generate the feed pressure standard drill bits require.

A bench top pillar drill is one of the most used and most useful tools I have. Failing that a decent brand HSS will keep you going for a while.

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0


Rob Gavin

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6729 Posts
Member #: 618
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Glasgow

For general use, i got this set a few years back which is still going strong. They do have their limitations and i do use some cobalt bits for the pillar drill when i've detailed work to do

http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-hss-drill-...et-170pcs/59953

Edited by Rob Gavin on 9th Oct, 2016.


Tom Fenton
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15300 Posts
Member #: 337
Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

&

TM legend.

Rotherham South Yorkshire

To be totally honest, learn how to sharpen bits properly, and it doesn't really matter what you buy for general car use, e.g. drilling holes, making brackets for things, drilling out sheared bolts etc.
All I would say is if buying something then forget B&Q/MM/Screwfix/Olistation, find an engineers merchant and buy yourself a set of something decent e.g. Dormer.

Edited by Tom Fenton on 10th Oct, 2016.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Brett

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9502 Posts
Member #: 1023
Post Whore

Doncaster, South Yorkshire

Olistation 😀😀

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

Instagram @jdm_brett


slater

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1030 Posts
Member #: 1291
Post Whore

Suffolk / Birmingham

Yep. You need a set of bog standard but quality 'black' jobber drill bits. None of these fancy coatings and stuff.

You also need to know how to regrind them. Only really tiny bits are disposable. Different materials require different geometry which you can grind yourself.

Alloy steels can be better for stuff like stainless but you also need to use them properly. Correct geometry, coolant, correct feed pressure etc. Not much good for jobber use.

Ti coatings are largely a gimmic on drill bits. Its designed for use in a production environment where tooling is regularly changed before it dulls. The coating gives extra life before you need to change tools. Its next to useless for jobber use. Once it wears off its gone and often on drills it's just a thin layer for 'marketing purposes' anyway totally useless.


PhilR

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696 Posts
Member #: 10034
Post Whore

Birmingham

As above, lubrication, sharpening and low RPM to get the most out of whatever you choose.

Anything much smaller than 5mm is not practical to sharpen, so buy a pack of half decent 3 or 4mm bits for pilot holes. Get ones with a 'split point' then you don't need to use a centre punch - they don't wander. I agree with Tom to avoid the High St chains, except for small bits, these are great...

http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-ground-h...pack-of-5/26091


metroturbo

806 Posts
Member #: 989
Post Whore

North Yorkshire

Only using low rpm is not correct. Use low rpm on a small bit and you will be disappointed with the results. There are charts all over the net to give an indication of the required speed for different size bits and different materials. In general, as the drill bit gets bigger, the speed lowers. You might need 1200rpm to put a 5mm bit through mild steel, but change to a 13mm bit and the speed needs to be more like 400rpm.


slater

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1030 Posts
Member #: 1291
Post Whore

Suffolk / Birmingham

I think what he was getting at was battery drill only have two speeds, too fast and too slow *tongue*


Adam_R

603 Posts
Member #: 1938
Post Whore

near Dundee

thanks for the replies,
Dormer seems to be reasonably priced locally so i will probably go with this brand.

as for use, will be using in a hand drill, pillar drill and possibly in my lathe.

ill need to be practicing the sharpening procedure though,


matty

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8297 Posts
Member #: 408
Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

Can't go wrong with Dormer drills, out of any they are what I would choose. Ive had a set of Dormer drills for years and pretty much always get used drilling out laser cut holes in stainless which can be bloody hard! HSS are good for most things, carbon steel drills in my experience are pretty useless, apart from on aluminium.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

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