Race car running in procedure.
Turbo Mini Forums

I'm almost at the stage of firing up again but I've read alot of conflicting advice as to how to run in.

New bearings, rings and freshly bored block. Head is 16v turbo so no need to run that in etc.

I've heard chat of flushing oil and then multiple running in oil changes before the car even moves under its own power...

My plan is to use halfords classic 20/50. Get pressure with plugs out. Then fire it up. Drive it slowly up and down the lane until it's upto temp and no major issues or leaks. Take it to rolling road. Run it for an hour on part throttle. Change the oil either to halfords again or millers maybe and then check the map and do a power run. Then take it straight onto the track....

Does any of that plan sound bad or worth changing significantly?

Cheers,
Nick

Running at constant part throttle will do the rings no favours. Ideally it needs to be on and off load up and down the box. If the ignition is set safe and you can keep an eye on fuel via a wide band then the best way to bed the rings is to drive it.
Has the head had any new followers etc, if so it's wise to follow the usual knocking in procedure eg 2500rpm for 20 min.

I meant part but varied throttle yeah.

Nothing new in the head. It's all bottom end changes.

Is running in oil that different to the classic mineral oil for example

Part throttle is exactly what you don't want. You need full throttle blasts under load. Avoid letting it idle too much in between or labouring it in a high gear. Obviously avoid high revs!

For oil use normal cheap 20/50 mineral for the entire running in process. How many times to change it is your choice but I do once after 30mins or so then leave the next lot in until it's bedded in and only then go for the semi synthetic. I don't seem the point in changing it 4 or 5 times but you need a decent period on mineral. 250-500miles maybe. That's the bit that I can't really nail down a definite answer to.

Part throttle is exactly what you don't want. You need full throttle blasts under load. Avoid letting it idle too much in between or labouring it in a high gear. Obviously avoid high revs!

For oil use normal cheap 20/50 mineral for the entire running in process. How many times to change it is your choice but I do once after 30mins or so then leave the next lot in until it's bedded in and only then go for the semi synthetic. I don't seem the point in changing it 4 or 5 times but you need a decent period on mineral. 250-500miles maybe. That's the bit that I can't really nail down a definite answer to.

If I were building a race engine I'd knock the cam in for 20 mins (you can skip this with it being a 16v so just run it up to temp at high idle 2000-2500rpm check for leaks and other obvious problems etc) then change the oil and off to a RR that knows what they are doing and let them sort it.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

noted on the variation of load etc but not high revs. Will small amounts of boost help or should i run no boost to start with?

car is never going to get 500 miles running in. probably wont even do that in its life! Thats why im thinking running in oil might be worthwhile as that seems to have protective and abrasive properties that will help speed up the ring bedding in process.

I think boost should help as the whole point is to try and get pressure in the cylinders to push the rings out before the abrasive cross hatching on the cylinder wears off.

I think you should at least get out and run the car on a dyno for a few hours or take it on a track/test day before it will be truly run in but its not really an exact science.

Indeed it is not !

My experience is that as long as the clearances are adequate and a full oil supply is maintained then, after about 50 miles, thrash the knackers off it.

Not a fair comparison, I know, but does anyone run a modern engine in ?

New hire cars have astronomical rev limits from the first startup and seem to survive !!

Anyone know how long the starter motor is likely to take to produce oil pressure. Bit concerned about burning out an expensive high torque starter!!

Just drive it flat out !

For getting oil pressure, remove the plugs so there isnt so much load and the starter should be quite happy spinning for lots of seconds...even minutes IF it takes that long

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

i told the guy doing the machining it was going in a track car and would not be run in he said fine just make sure you drive it hard !

set the rev limit to 4k for the first session then 5k for the rest did 4 sessions at castle combe last year. got a rolling road on the 16th of this month other than that its been started on the trailer a few times and blipped up and down the street a bit.

Outside the box

Had mine spinning for quite some time with no bother

It will only draw a fraction of the current spinning with no plugs in anyway. Should have pressure within 10-20secs usually although it always feels a life time. If you dont stick a bit of oil in the block with an oil can and try again. I have on occasion needed to do that.

I think what you need to remember with running in is its a case of diminishing returns. The vast majority will happen when you first start it and after that it becomes less and less worth worrying about. Whats important is that you get it run in straight away. No letting it idle in the garage. Start it, 20mins @ 2000rpm to knock the cam in and check for problems than on the road or dyno to give it a hard blast. After a session of that its really debatable if anything else is needed or not id just go easy on the revs for a bit 'just in case'.

Thanks guys. Hoping to get back in the garage tomorrow to fire it up. No need to knock the cams in but I guess this buys me a little garage time to check for leaks and any issues and warm it up a bit before running it down the lane a few times then head to rolling road for a decent run in and map check

also, because of the 16v head and dog box, i'm guessing a 20/50 isnt the most suitable for past the running in stage.

I know the 20w50 CTV is popular on here but im thinking that might be a might on the thick side for this application?

http://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/2l-castrol...h-tesco-2425780

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.