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pieter

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239 Posts
Member #: 7577
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belgium

evening all,

has anybody tried the evans waterless coolant or water wetter additive to their coolant.

i usually put SP11 blue coolant in my engine, but now i have one that is very rusty on the inside*angry**angry*,
so i'm pondering on the thought of changing to that waterless coolant once the engine is back clean again...

The engine is from my moke, i did 2K miles with it this summer and put in a new engine this time last year, together with hoses and a new rad.

any thoughts/ experiences?


wil_h

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Betwix Harrogate and York

Try the pink stuff rather than the blue.

Water wetter works, but it's a bodge and only needed when a cooling system is insufficient. Or where you want to minimise the system for weight.

The waterless coolant works, but it's caused lots of accidents on tracks as it's slippier than diesel when on the road. Best avoided, I suspect it will be banned from track soon.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

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On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:

the design shows a distinct lack of imagination,
talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol

On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry.


jbelanger

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Montreal, Canada

Water wetter increases heat transfer because it lowers the surface tension. The waterless coolant decreases it because it's not as efficient as water.

So since a Mini usually doesn't have much excess cooling capacity, it should be obvious which way to go.

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Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook

The rusty coolant is an indicator that air is getting in. Air is likely getting in when the engine and rad cools and draws a vacuum. there is more to an engine coolant than just antifreeze. The inhibitors used in some coolants these days i think zre a bit like everythjng else, just not what they use to be, and never perform as well as they did, back then. If you buy cheep còolant, it likely wont last as long as we would hope.

one solution is to Install an expansion tank and fill the cooling system completely with coolant. Make sure you use the correct rad cap though. This way, all the air thats left in the system gets pushed out when the engine is hot, along with a little coolant. When it cools, it sucks the coolant back in, thus keeping air, and the oxygen that causes the red rust, out!

Edited by Sprocket on 21st Jan, 2016.

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


matty

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Aylesbury

Awful stuff, honestly you'll regret putting it in. You have to flush the entire system with a cleaning agent before using it, and if you get a leak it leaves everything really oily, and it is a pain to clean it off.

I would try the VW coolant first.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


R.Rodrigues

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Algarve/Portugal

I agree whit VW stuff, taken from my engine whit about 700km, absolutely no rust.

Edited by R.Rodrigues on 22nd Jan, 2016.


tadge44

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Buckinghamshire

What about the warning on using the pink stuff in old engines ? Is it just a load of rubbish or is it not a good idea ?


wil_h

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No idea, maybe a risk to old ally engines, but I can't see it disolving cast iron any better than water.

On 22nd Jan, 2016 tadge44 said:
What about the warning on using the pink stuff in old engines ? Is it just a load of rubbish or is it not a good idea ?

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:

the design shows a distinct lack of imagination,
talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol

On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry.


pieter

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239 Posts
Member #: 7577
Senior Member

belgium

well, the engine is in a moke now, so i has an expansion tank fitted already, but i noticed that the wrong rad cap was on the rad itself. replaced it with a correct one and have drianed the system already, bought some engine flush, will start up the engine now with the flush in and dimineralised water. drain that, flush again and then put normal coolant in and then see what it looks like after 500miles

I might also be the heater which i installed during the last service, as there was none installed before and the heater matrix itself had been lying in my garage for ages... so there might be some sludge/rust buildup in that as well...also the tap was not working so fixed that...


Edited by pieter on 22nd Jan, 2016.


Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook




On 22nd Jan, 2016 R.Rodrigues said:
I agree whit VW stuff, taken from my engine whit about 700km, absolutely no rust.



Is that G12 or G12++ ?....

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


tadge44

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Buckinghamshire

I have been told that the pink stuff will attack copper and brass so bad for copper head gaskets or rediators.

I am referring to the pink stuff described as reliant on organic acid technology (OAT) and it is not recommended for classic cars by the FHBC, apparently.


Rod S

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Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk


On 22nd Jan, 2016 tadge44 said:
What about the warning on using the pink stuff in old engines ? Is it just a load of rubbish or is it not a good idea ?


I hadn't read this before but, after a bit of research on the WEB (Google is your friend) it appears to have some validation from reasonably acceptable bodies (like from the FBHVC) say that the adittives in the "pink" stuff OAT (Orgainic acid) are bad on certain silicones (earlier gasket sealants) or lead (solder on earlier copper based radiators).
The blue uses IAT (In-organic acid) which doesn't attack the silicone or lead but has a much shorter protection life.

So, if you believe what they say, if any of your coolant parts are pre 90's and involve silicone or lead (solder) I guess I would avoid the pink stuff.

Modern radiators are all aluminium tubes and pressed into plastic headers which is probably why the change in coolant was made. I've seen plenty of older Mini radiators where the pipe stubs are soldered into the headers (even if the tubes themselves are brazed).

Thoughts ???

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook

The manufacturers of the coolants have made this an unnecessarily complicated subject for the enthusiast to make the right decision in choosing which coolant to use.

For example, those of use that have replaced substantial iron engine and brass/copper cooling components with aluminium are now in a situation that might actualy require a different coolant technology.

In general, the classic/traditional blue is a silicate based coolant and one that is recommended for 'classic ' vehicles. These vehicles engines and cooling systems are mainly made up of iron, brass, copper, lead/soft solder and only a little aluminium. The main surface areas are iron and brass. Apparently the silicates deal with this mixed metal well.

Change the head and radiator to aluminium and the main surface areas are now iron and aluminium. The recommended coolant in these sort of engines is an OAT coolant to protect the aluminium. The silicate coolants dont protect the aluminium, so classic blue could be bad choice.

Now there is the latest technology of HOAT or Si-OAT which is an OAT coolant with added silicates. Perhaps the best of both worlds, but the manufacturers dont say this.

This was the reason for my leading question above of Vw G12 or G12++. G12 being an OAT and G12++ being a HOAT. G12 is pink, G12++ is violet. Not really much to distinguish colour wise with out something to compare to since one person could see violet as pink and vice versa.

Interestingly Rover Mpi initial fill was an orange OAT, which later changed to a green OAT.

Mine field!

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


cossierick

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wakefield West Yorks

You hit the nail on the head in your first sentence colin.
Manufactures and enthusiasts !!! , they don't want us to do anything on our cars any more !
ive just put the pink vw stuff in the mini but that was because we have loads lol


Chalkie

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Northamptonshire.

Comma extreme g40 5 year fluid really good stuff I use it in everything I work on now as it's backward compatible aswell so won't affect anything if you top up with other coolants


R.Rodrigues

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Algarve/Portugal




On 22nd Jan, 2016 Sprocket said:


Is that G12 or G12++ ?....


I believe its the G12, its from febi bilstein 1,5L concentrated it have the red cap, the purple cap I believe its the G12 plus.

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nky_84

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Scotland

deary me. Just trawling through the search for coolant information and im now more confused than ever *smiley* this thread does have alot of good info though.

Which of these would be most suitable for alloy rad, head and turbo hill climber?!


madmk1

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brookwood woking

I am guessing this is the stuff?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Febi-Bilstein-An...IMAAOSwo6lWIDS4

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On 1st Nov, 2007 Ben H said:
There is no such thing as 'insignificant weight saving', it all adds up.

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