Random Q - Changing from Auto to Manual?
Turbo Mini Forums

Hey all,

How much work is it to convert an automatic mini, to a manual one?

a

http://www.minimania.com/Mini_Automatic_to...sic_Information

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Manual subby or the blocks to make up the difference in frames, pedal box or just pedal, gear stick n rods.. think ya need different driveshafts too?

That thing that johns put on about sums it up. If you make the spacers from 10mm plate chances are they may be too thick, I've converted 3 cars and they all differed, they may just need a Nats taking off one or both. Despite what the write up says about the top engine steady, fit an adjustable one so you can get the engine when you want, the carb twatted the bulkhead on the first two I did with the auto top steady. Also there's no provision for the front lower engine steady so you'll need one off a manual ,set your engine with the top one and it's a simple bracket needed welding onto the subframe. Other minor annoyance is the gear shift will go straight in but if you use the factory gaitor the holes are miles too big for the std fixings, I seem to remember using riv nuts or even rubber nutserts and 4mm bolts. I seem to remember some tomfoolery with the reverse light switch too but nothing too hard.

On 5th Oct, 2014 Shauna said:
What that's crazy, you go commando hahaha! How heavy is your helmet ?

Provided it's a pot joint auto driveshafts are the same as manual iirc

On 5th Oct, 2014 Shauna said:
What that's crazy, you go commando hahaha! How heavy is your helmet ?

the driveshafts are no different to any Manual Min, whether pot joint or hardy spicer/ crucifix types.

The auto engine steady is the same length as the SPi/MPi.

The actual reason Rover moved the engine position forwards by ~1/2" on post 1991 Minis, was not for the SPi gubbins, but rather for the HIF carburetor used on all non cooper variants. The carb is dangerously close to the bulkhead otherwise.

With that in mind, any post 1991 mini will have the longer engine steady and equally longer gear selector rods.

Making engine mounting spacers is easy enough and you can place the engine in either the early or late model position simply by drilling a couple of extra holes in the subframe. I can give some guidance on thickness and hole locations. Oli is not far off with spacer thickness of 10mm, but maybe more like 8mm or 9mm? from my measurements. I use a 4mm spacer on mine to drop the engine ~1/2" and located the engine in the late model position for more room at the back of the engine for the 2.25" downpipe.

so going from auto to manual its going to be more cost effective to use the late model gear selector rods, make your own spacers and redrill the subframe to position the engine as per late model Minis.

Edited by Sprocket on 18th Jan, 2016.

So the easy method would be to just build up a 'complete' front subby with driveshafts, manual engine/box and shifter mech, and fit that along with a clutch pedal and cylinders?

I wouldn't say replacing the whole subframe assembly was easier than just drilling a couple of holes and making a couple of spacers.

You have to source the gear selector anyway, so im my opinion, get the late model one.

Ultimately depends on what you are doing with the manual engine?........ Turbo? N/A HIF carb? Frount mount rad?....................

It's just there are lot of nice autos about atm - and if the aim is to change the engine for a turbo anyway, I was wondering if it mattered what the original car was. :)

From almost 0 minis... to possibly 2?

something like that

Good lad!!