How to Upload map to Typhoon ECU
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi guys, I'm new to the forum. I'm in New Zealand with a 1969 Elf. After a very LONG build I'm trying to get the engine started.
It's a 1430, with a Ben Afford supercharger kit based around the Toyota SC12 supercharger. I've also got Specialist Component's 5 port EFI kit.
Trying to start the engine last week I had spark at the spark plugs but no fuel from the injectors. I'm an absolute newbie to EFI. The technical support from Specialist Components has been top class. They've helped me run through a few diagnostics by email and overnight have sent me a new map to upload which hopefully will solve my problems.
I'm really keen to get the car running and so plan to tear off from work a bit early today to try to upload the map, but I don't know how. I've downloaded the map to the hard drive on my lap top and I've also got SC's SXTune software downloaded and have the CAN USB to connect the lap top to the Typhoon ECU.
I'm sure that SC will tell me over night how to upload if I'm patient and wait another 24 hours but I'm really keen to have it fire up today.
Is there anyone on line who can tell me?

I'ts all in the help files.

But basically, open SX tune and connect the ECU.

Then SXT button - File - Programme ECU from File.

Select the file, follow the on-screen instructions.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

As posted it is all in the help files.
I have had some issues printing the help files and I prefer to have a printed version I can refer to.
Here is a version I created, maybe a little late though.
Terry

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Thanks for the help guys. I didn't realise that was a button. I thought it was just a logo!

I loaded the new map into the ECU and it has certainly made a difference.

After turning over and over on the starter the engine does eventually fire up and runs, albeit as rough as guts for about 20 -30 seconds (if that) and then it back fires (flame and smoke) out through the inlet piping. The backfire must be coming out past the supercharger and then past the injectors.
There is also quite a lot of petrol dripping out the inlet piping after the back fire.

Any ideas on what could be causing that? When the engine was being built my mechanic put in a Titan belt drive kit for the cam. Could it be cam timing?

Edit: looks fuelling related to me.

Edited by Rob Gavin on 22nd Nov, 2015.

Sounds like you have the same setup as me.

To get it started you need a lot of extra fuel in the cranking enrichment table.

Don't take this as an insult, but I would suggest you get it to somebody who knows what they are doing. I spent a long time messing about to get mine driveable, then spent some time driving round with the laptop and experienced operator improving it. Mine needs to go to the rolling road of the flat out bits sorting.

Thanks for the comments guys and absolutely no offence taken. As you correctly assumed, I'm no expert.

I've still got quite a bit to do to get the car finished eg bleed the brakes and quite a bit of wiring for the gauges, wipers, horn etc. I've also got to get some stainless steel piping fabricated to move the air filter to the front of the engine bay.
However I was wondering if there was any point in continuing with any of that if the engine had to come out again because cam timing or something like that was out.

But your comments indicate that the problem is still likely to be with the EFI and so that's a relief that it seems the engine is OK and can stay put.

I do know that I have to take it to a rolling road to get it set up correctly and I was planning to do that as soon as it is run in. However I was hoping to get the engine started so that I knew all of that is OK.

apbellamy, if our set ups are similar would you mind emailing me your map so that I can try to see if that will at least let me get the car started please?

I forgot to say, in my earlier post that when the car back fires through the inlet the engine stops dead. I then takes quite a bit of cranking to get it going again before it fires, runs really rough for 20 - 30 seconds and then bang it back fires again and the engine stops. I did try switching spark plug leads around but it didn't help.

No problem sharing it, but no idea where I saved it to and the battery is flat on the car. I'll charge it up as soon as I get chance, but life is a bit hectic at the moment.

Mine needed a load more fuel than any of the maps from S.C..

You can check the cam timing with the engine in. Screw driver in the plug hole to find tdc and clock on top of the rockers. Won't be 100%, but close enough to tell you if it is good enough to run or not.

From my experience of this engine configuration, you need what would normally be considered an excessive amount of fuel on cranking enrichments. After start enrichments also needs more fuel ( that 20 to 30 second) but that largely depends on the base map. You can also add a larger prime pulse that will help with initial cranking. Warm up enrichments will also likely need more fue, these also largely depend on the base map. In short, if the base map is miles out, everything else is miles out.

Gently increase the numbers untill it gets better. Dont just focus on one fuel map, but rather all of them together as a colaboration.

To get it starting and running a little better try this....

Add a prime pulse if there isnt already one, double it if there is.

Add 25% to cranking enrichments

Add 25% to afterstart enrichments

Add 25% to warmup enrichments

Add 25% to the base map in the idle areas.


You need to get the engine to run well enough to get it up to temperature, you can then get the base map fueling sorted, and then work out the afterstart and warmup enrichments on the next cold start.

You do have wideband?

Don't forget to knock the cam in to as soon as its running.

Thanks again for the help and recommendations. Sprocket, I do have an Innovate A/F sensor and gauge etc but haven't fitted it yet.