wanting to change drivelines pot type to Hardy-Spicer confusion
Turbo Mini Forums

my question is how do i identify the drive shafts?
im looking to make it easier for my self i dont like pot type joints pushing lifting moveing the engine around to get them in and out

i think its worth the cash to set the lump in then bolt the shafts up

so i have abusively the full pot joint setup i also have the full rubber u joint type from my first trans that was remote shifted

can i take the diff side covers from the rubber u joint trans and put them on my rod trans then get some hardy out put flanges and joints with my rubber u joint shafts?

if that adds up? or is there a way to run the full rubber joint stuff but with a replacement rubber bit?

Edited by Turbo This.. on 28th Aug, 2015.

The diff side covers on the hardy spicer have a larger internal diameter than the pot joint and yoke (rubber u joint setup). So you would either need the hardy spicer covers part 22G420 or a couple of these which allow you to use the pot joint diff covers

http://www.swiftune.com/Product/593/swiftu...diffs-pair.aspx

I believe you would then want cooper s driveshafts

im going to go dig out the drive shafts that i have and measure count the splines after lunch

it would be awesome if someone who has the uni joint type shafts to count and or measure them so ill have a comparison

the other option is this nylon conversion
http://minisport.com.au/mini-pair-of-nylon...-rubber-crosses

but im not sure they will take abuse id think that the needle rollers might push into the nylon? on a hard lunch or silly things like that

Edited by Turbo This.. on 28th Aug, 2015.

so got a few sizes on the rubber type shafts it would be awesome if they are the same as uni joint type

total length 403mm and 335mm only tape measurements

there 16 spline

aprox 50mm long splines





i dont know what the cooper s uni joint type sizes are so dont have anything to compare to

ok so looking on the net and counting splines from those pics it seems the rubber jount and hardy type use the same shafts?

There is nothing complicated about this and its been done to the death.

There are two types of shaft. Pot joint and UJ ( the latter encompasses both hardy Spicer and rubber coupling)

'Cooper S' shafts can be identified with a raised ring on the shafts somewhere near the middle of its length. These have the UJ splines.

The biggest difference is not with the drive shafts but rather the gearbox output shafts. You cannot use pot joint output shafts with hardy spicers unless you use the Swiftune drive flange adapters. Likewise you cannot use pot joints with hardy Spicer or rubber coupling output shafts.

Also note that the hardy Spicer output shafts are different to the rubber coupling output shafts in that the hardy Spicer shafts are the same overall diameter along their length and use a bolt to retain the output flange, where as the rubber coupling uses a big nut.

What was the original question anyway.....

ahh now i see

original question was to find out whats needed to change to hardy ujs from pot type

im currently using pot joints and id like to change to hardy type for ease of getting the engine in and out

so from what you say if im reading it correctly

i have both types of drive shafts so im good there but what ill need is clearly the hardy joints and the pot type to hardy adapters from swift tune or other suppliers to get the pot joint side covers to work

or

i also have the full rubber uj set up so could take those side covers but id still need the hardy out put flanges as you say

We are missing one very important point. The pot joint output shaft is a completely different spline to the hardy spicer output shaft.

One thing i am totally un sure of is whether the rubber coupling output shaft/ spline will take the hardy spicer output flange. I don't know because I have never owned any rubber coupling parts.

The diff side cover is just one other complication. Again im not sure if the side covers for the hardy spicer is the same ID as the rubber coupling ones, or not, don't know. either way, you cannot use the pot joint output shafts in the diff if you want to use either hardy spicers or rubber type couplings.


Ergo, it is not just as simple as changing the diff side covers and drive shafts when changing from pot joint to hardy spicer, you have to remove the diff and change the output shafts also.

simplicity is the Swiftune adapters. All you need then are the hardy spicer couplings if you already have the shafts.

ok so im installing a new ATB diff that has pot joint type output splines
so your saying the hardy flanges whont go on the pot splines?


it sounds like im best to buy the swifty adaptors and use my current pot diff side covors and use the rubber uj shafts

i was thinking i could use the rubber uj side covors and then get the hardy flanges but if the hardy flanges dont go on the pot diff splines then thats not gona work

In this case there are only two options open to you. Keep the pot joints or, buy the Swiftune adapters.

Lynx AE do them too.