Water jacket mod?
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi

I've searched but no joy.

Has anyone done the mod as in vizard's book?
He basically opens the water jacket at the water pump end.
would you think it's worth it?
I'm planning on dry decking this engine aswell.

Thanks

Josh

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

Wouldnt bother. I dry decked mine and struggled to get it warm after that.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

I plan to cut metal away from right side of the pump hole to try and help more water around the back of the block. Whether it makes an difference, I don't know, but it takes little effort. I also plan to block some of water holes towards the pump end so that more water has to travel further around the block - a sort of half-dry-deck. I'll be doing this to a block this afternoon so will take pictures.

What page is the Vizard mod on ?

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

i think i did it, it can only help imo, engine temperature control should be done by the thermostat, once i got mine sorted it was spot on

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

I ground the block away as advised. Whether it makes a difference or not I don't know.

Phil.

WWW.TURBO-MINI.COM

Well I've got my block in bits. Just want to do the bits I can do, then send it off for acid dipping and machining etc.

Has anyone got any pics of it done as it's not that clear in the yellow book.

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

I never liked the idea.

The water pump its self is an open impeller and the housing (volute) is created by the aperture in the engine block. Surely changing the shape of that aperture will reduce the overall efficiency of the water pump?........

Are there any other mods I should do while my block is in bits?
I'm planning to block the water ways for dry decking. Also I'm going to oil feed the thrust bearings (machine shop will do it).
Anything else I should consider doing to the block??

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

Here are the pictures I tool this afternoon. Didn't find the Vizard example so there maybe a better way to do it. I'm just trying to get more flow around the back of the block. EDIT: found the picture of Vizard's example; I don't think mine has ended up much different.

Before:


After:


Crosses are the holes I'm planning to block, and circles are where I can increase the holes a touch. The idea is to increase water flow around the far end of the block and not let the water short circuit through the first couple of holes.


Will have to add up the cross sectional area of the holes, but pretty sure it's bigger than the narrowest parts of the water system (pump inlet pipe) so I think it shouldn't restrict flow.

Edited by PhilR on 16th Jul, 2015.

Edited by PhilR on 16th Jul, 2015.

I agree with Colin.
Making sure the block is clear of all scale and rust, as you are doing, is the most effective aid to cooling.

Thanks.
It's already got center strap. And I'm definitely going for 11 stud.

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

If the block is fairly cruddy inside the waterways and you have a few weeks where you won't need to work on the block itself, you could look into molasses (black treackle) rust dip.

Still unsure whether the mods above will be good or bad as I have some other impeller pumps that are a more open design. Either way, I've not gone too crazy on mine so still resembles the original design, so I doubt it's done any harm. I've fixed the picture links above; only the before picture with a gasket line was showing, which may have looked like I was suggesting cutting out much more of the block. As the guys have suggested, that probably wouldn't improve things.

On some pumps you might also make an improvement by shaping the blade surfaces down to a single edge. Some pumps have a squared off double edge which could lead to more turbulence and cavitations at high rpm.

Edited by PhilR on 16th Jul, 2015.

One more note: Don't the high flow pumps have extended fins that extend past the block wall? Surely this would also have a negative effect for just the same reasons - you're encouraging flow away from the recess / cavity in the pump's casting.

Edited by PhilR on 16th Jul, 2015.

I have this pump that I'm planning on fitting. ...

http://m.minispares.com/classic~mini~shop/GWP187EVO

I'll look into the molasses dip.
Would you need to hone the bores after?

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

That pump looks good to me; Some other pumps have quite crude impeller castings with a squared off fins, which is bad for cavitation and flow.

First time I did the molasses dip, I made it too weak, and left it for too long. As a result, it stripped the paint and left the bare surfaces slightly darkened as if they'd been very lighty etched. I don't think this would do any harm but I planned on honing afterwards anyway. If I did it again I wouldn't dip the whole block, I'd just fit an old pump with the inlet blocked, then fill to just below the deck surface with a 10:1 or 10:2 mix of water:black treacle.

Edited by PhilR on 16th Jul, 2015.

Would molasse dip remove paint?
I read it just removes rust?

Does look good though. Where could I get it from?

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

Bilt Hamber Deox 80 is faster than molasses,but costs more.

This stuff leaves metal looking like new - and removes only the rust, not sound metal

I'm enjoying this thread - thanks guys!

Edited by PhilR on 16th Jul, 2015.

I see.
I take it I'll need more than 454g though!? Lol

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

http://www.homercidal.com/molasses/

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Yeah, they're 250ml tins. One website said water it down 10:1.

EDIT: John's link above says 4:1 or 10:1. I'd probably make it as strong as possible if I do it again, cap off any holes in the block and just contain it in that instead of dipping the whole block.

Edited by PhilR on 16th Jul, 2015.

I soak things in cheap vinegar to remove rust, could try it that way