Fuel injection for Vmaxscart kit
Turbo Mini Forums

Hello all,

I have recently spent a great deal of time, effort and money on a new engine and supercharger kit from Vmaxscart. Engine is originally a 1275 from a Metro. Car is LHD. Spec is as follows:
A+ Block bored to 1293
Head skimmed, rebuilt with fresh parts
Vmaxscart EVO140 kit with water cooled manifold
ARP studs and bolts
HIF44 with Vmaxscart supplied needle
Standard Metro electronic distributor
Omega +20 forged pistons 18CC
Standard connecting rods
Swiftune SW5 camshaft
Swiftune duplex timing kit
New turbo oil pump
No decompression plate (not required according to Stuart)
Maniflow manifold
RC40 exhaust
Guessworks rebuilt gearbox
X-pin differential
2.76:1 FD
Standard helical gearset
Economy primary and input drop gears (0.9333:1)
Minispares 2 core radiator
88 degree thermostat
Facet fast road solid state pump (SS502, 4-5.5 PSI)
Valvoline VR1 racing 20W50 oil

Car is intended to be as modern and quite as possible mainly for highways, thus using these gear ratios and camshaft etc. This is also why it is supercharged, soundproof has electric windows etc. Meant to be a daily car with extra puff.

As it stands I have a couple of issues with the car:
1. It overheats when idle and under load. I believe this is due to the old 8 lb rad cap it has that I will be replacing soon with a 15 lb type. Also it hasn't been tuned on a rolling road yet so obviously timing and fueling are out.
2. Supercharger pully and belt contact the clutch master cylinder under light or more acceleration. This I will be solving by fitting an engine steady that attaches to the water pump bolts instead of the thermostat housing (had to be removed due to the supercharger).

Also I will be fitting a Filter King fuel pressure regulator for the Facet pump (I understand current pump pressure is excessive) as well as a mechanical oil temp gauge that reads from the sump plug to see if oil temp is causing overheating.
I'm considering fitting a Cinquecento front mounted radiator. Not because of the cooling issues, but because it would cancel the mechanical fan lowering noise levels even further. Obviously this would aid cooling as well.

I have read on the forums that forced induction requires different ignition properties than on naturally aspirated engines and that fuel injection improves pretty much every aspect of the engine.
Right now the engine feels weak when comparing to its performance before the project, Maybe 80 HP. It also feels "cammy" in low RPM and idles erratically, which is completely against the point of the camshaft I have chosen and the purpose of the car. I have checked the cam timing and it's spot on.
I know this is due to ignition and fueling, which is what I'm trying to solve.
Unfortunately where I live (Israel) there are 2 rolling roads and both I believe know nothing about carburetors and distributors, so going fuel injection seems like a logical step forward.

Questions:
Which system should I opt for? I have asked Stuart about this and he has said that he no longer works on minis and that fuel injection projects based on Emerald systems used to cost about £2500. This is way over my budget.
What are my other options? Preferably a system that uses O2 sensors to tune itself?
So far I have found Megasquirt from trigger-wheels.com, the Specialist components engine management kits, and the Emerald K6. Which is best for my needs?
Which parts do I need to complete the conversion?

Thanks very much!

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I have an MS3X fitted to give multi-point injection. I have found it easy to use and works well for my purpose.
I've not used any of the others to compare it to though.

I think it cost around £600 by the time I paid duty etc.

Are you thinking of doing port injection or wet manifold injection? I guess that will influence the decision as port injection will require a system that can vary the individual injector timing.

1275 N/A Sprite, 998 T2 Turbo Mayfair
1275 EFi Turbo

Stay away from the EMERALD ECU, it is really hard to program, i had it with my turbo kit from vmaxscart, and we couldnt get it to run perfect.
We removed the Emerald, and mounted a DTA S40 PRO ecu, and it runs perfect now.

You can't blame Emerald for you not being able to figure out the software... Lots of folks use Emerald without any issue... That said - DTA is a little more intuitive, but just like many things in life: Shit in = Shit out....

I know lots of people are running with Emerald ecu, it just didnt work well with my setup, and the RR i used here in Denmark are also used to work with the DTA, thats why i removed the Emerald ecu from my kit :)...

Thanks very much for the responses!

Dan, I'm not sure regarding port injection and wet manifold injection.. what are the differences?
I'm after the cheaper solution that would be easiest to tune.
Gomme, how much does the S40 pro cost? Where can I buy it? Didn't find a price on their webpage...

As for MS, I have found trigger-wheels.com to be the cheapest supplier. Apparently, the difference in cost between a Megajolt system and Megasquirt is about £100, so I might as well go MS.

Do you guys know which throttle body I might need for this? They don't sell them.

Thanks!!

Go MS, i payed around 600 GBP for the DTA.
Take a look at this kit, its expensive i know:
http://www.twinkam.co.uk/shop/article_SC20...3DSC208B.004%26

Or this manifold here, then you can use any throttle body you like..

http://www.podifold.com/

Edited by Gomme on 11th Nov, 2014.

Although it is very nice solution, this manifold is definitely not part of a cheap option.
Flixonase since you already have this setup I think that the best solution for you would be suck-through injection system. That way you just need new inlet pipe for charger that has provision for injector(s), and you can use any standalone ecu.