Example Turbo Build for others to follow!!!
Turbo Mini Forums

Thanks to all of you (and yes I have contributed twice to server funds)

I built this



and it went like this

http://youtu.be/iiMgZvdF9HY?list=UU4cY1qQ-Fsi3X5t1X2e4OUg

and did this

http://youtu.be/YuiR5QkOh-E

so thanks!

But I just got a 1293 block that has had a nice rebuild with new pistons and a recent rebore so want to start a build that others can follow.

I would like to build a nice fresh turbo engine to replace my throw together effort (listen though, it does looses grip as I pull away in second gear without even dumping clutch!

So, where do I start?

I want 150bhp and reliable. Is this possible? Should I start by going to 1380? I do have another standard Marina 1275 block.

Bottom end build first, what crank and what pistons and is 1380 the way to go?

I can, once done, put this into a complete how to including pictures stage by stage.

Many thanks as always!

A step by step build would certainly help a novice like me! :)

mine: http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=570945

yup I'm "sticking" a turbo on my lump too when I get round to it so would be good to see somebody doing it step by step

Sounded to be missing a fair bit in that second vid (or it could just be my phone).

Don't bother going 1380 it's not necessary.
I'd just use a standard crank with rolled fillet radius bearing journals, standard a+ rods with ARP rod bolts (get everything balanced), MG Metro/KC 500 Cam, Modified cylinder head, Omega 10cc cast pistons, good intercooler, megajolt or other mapped ignition and a standard T3 will give you a reliable 150bhp if correctly built and setup. We had similar in our metro van (except we had standard metro turbo pistons). That made just short of 150bhp at 12/13psi (and I would have been happy to run 15psi+ on it)

If you are feeling a bit more flush get a modern turbo on there like a GT1752.

Edited by John on 26th Sep, 2014.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

What a great response already! I'll try to keep the responses short and to the point but once done, as I say I can make into a clean build thread.

I have a 1293cc Block, I might just as well use this as it is a recently rebuilt engine, so I will strip it down to the bare block.

I will go for the GT1752 Turbo as it seems only logical.

Is there no advantage for going for uprated con rods? I am happy to buy them.

What are rolled fillet radius bearing journals?

MG Metro cam, is this best bought new? Or alternative cam from someone?

I will create a list at the end of each post of my ongoing build list / intention and it is up to you guys to argue it out as to where I am going wrong / could be going better.

So:
1293 Block, freshly bored out
Omega 10cc cast pistons
Intercooler
Megajolt ignition
Standard con rods
Arp rod bolts
Cam (which one?)

Thanks

An alternative cam is the Avonbar Phase 2 or similar but I don't really rate it that much more than the MG Metro but if you are buying new then it could be worthwhile.

I think BENROSS on here can still get hold of the Phase 2.

If you decide on the MG Metro profile just by a KC500 direct from Kent as finding a usable MG Metro cam can be hit and miss.

As for the rods I don't see the point wasting 400+ on them if you aren't going to be spinning mega rpm!

As for the rolled fillet crank it's something that the transverse a-series got when they went A+ so I guess it would be the same for the inline units, so perhaps look out for a crank from a 1275 maestro or montego as I believe they used inline engine but in transverse layout.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Can't wait to get my Turbo bits into my Allegro!! that Marina will surprise a few people who try n tailgate or over take :) what boost was that running in the video?

Boost is standard 7psi and it does throw you back to the point you think how can all this be holding together? No dished pistons just Hepalite, copper head gasket and heavy duty crank bearings other than that all standard.

pistons, crank and rods will be standard in mine too. i have the MG metro head and camshaft on mine with an ultra light flywheel, but ill be using an intercooler on my rig and hoping for 10psi. was there any specific reason to use the copper head gasket? and how have you setup the fuel system? have you ran a return line back to the tank or used a T piece in to the original line?

Malpassi Fuel Pressure Regulator, ran a line back to tank (as per another of my posts) VERY IMPORTANT to have bigger return than feed and no resistance on the return.
Was a real knob jockey of a wank to get it right!

were there any parts that were difficult to get a hold of when you converted the engine?

a list of bits would be quite useful for people such as my self who are attempting this sort of thing.

or even what bits were borrowed from other cars to fill in the gaps so to speak

To get the out of control wheelspinning in the dry never seen before on a Marina effect, I simply used (apart from Hepalite Pistons, heavy duty crank bearing and copper head gasket (all which was already available) I simply used

Metro Turbo Head
Metro Turbo Exhaust and inlet manifolds
Metro Turbo Caburettor
Metro Turbo Fuel Presure Regulator
Return line to the tank
Turned key, left garage sideways!

Simple as that, I did however, weld a boss into the exhaust and install an AEM Air Fuel Ratio Gauge to make sure I wasn't running lean.

so is that still using the standard distributor then !? like for a normally aspirated 1275. and will a normal head gasket be up to the job as opposed to the copper one, or is it a good idea to change it ?

sorry for the 20 questions :)

love it!

Standard everything works fine. Even pistons (I'm opening up am argument now!) As long as you keep 7psi standard boost and keep and eye on the air fuel mixture and make sure you don't run lean, I did 20,000 miles in a Metro with NOTHING more than Metro Turbo top end.
To get a nice responsive fast shitter like my Marina is very easy. Nothing uprated. All standard.Noticeably much much quicker.

Now I have had fun, I want to build a proper engine and have amongst my huge stash of old crap rusty classics I have a 5 speed Corolla converted gearbox and a Dolomite Sprint about to donate its rear axle so I am now doing it properly. I would recommend my two stage route as you can get a feel for no money and then build up a second engine.

im Actually suprised that it doesnt ping/detonate running the standard timing. yeah i think getting a feel for the boost first on the engine i got is a good idea. wilst im enjoying myself with that save up for some new bits for my spare MG1300 block. although im sure the pistons in those are same as turbo ones just higher compression. either way good job man!! they should have done this from the factory :)

oh did you use a wide band or narrow band lambda set up? as the narrow ones are much cheaper

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Oh dear this thread is going a bit off topic. Maybe Iwill make another thread about the clown engine in the Marina at the moment.

Anyway back on topic why is this thread title useless?
I own a copy of the Vizzard bible and whilst it covers some example builds it doesn't cover the turbo in great detail.

So, anything else I would need to build a 150 bhp engine bottom end wise? Center strap etc? Is a standard crank really the way to go?

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Thank you very much. I will pull the 1293 out of the Morris Traveller it is resting in and get cracking. So 10cc dish Omega pistons are the way to go?

Yes absolutely, i have had them, and i rate them very very highly good piston for the money

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

I really want this to be an easy build for others to follow, but I have just been offered 'everything to make it injection' I can only assume this is off a mini, can we agree that injection is a bit too complex for the purposes of this build? (not running myself down in terms of capabilities, I did win first prize at the 2002 Avenger and Sunbeam Owners Club for my Injection Avenger using parts from a MG Maestro, but please correct me if I am wrong, but there doesn't seem to be an easy injection turbo route???

im not the following type, but i have to admit this is the best guide i can recommend for some one to follow, same principles applies for both small and large bore, inline and transverse builds

http://www.turbo-mini.com/62147.html

as for injection its a massive can of worms, ive got my opinion on it but i would rather others made up there own minds
good reading can be found here

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vf&fid=29

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vf&fid=39

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vf&fid=33

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vf&fid=40

Edited by Brett on 30th Sep, 2014.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Theres not an easy injection route using the 5 port head. Turbo or not.

Your on the right track. Focus on getting the ignition and fueling right rather than tyring to beef up the bottom end. Its the detonation due to bad control of those two factors that will kill it. Just build the bottom end well using standard parts and it will be fine. The only things i would buy for it are ARP con-rod bolts, some decent pistons (although i think standard turbo items will do for 15psi) and maybe a center mains strap but the latter is only because its cheap as chips

Edited by slater on 30th Sep, 2014.