Turbocharging an inline 1275
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi guys,

I'm planning on turbo'ing a standard A series 1275 from a marina, the bores are in good condition and with a standard compression of 8.8-1 I wasn't planning on changing that, needless to say I'll be checking the bottom end over.


I want to get a reliable 100bhp ish without sacrificing economy too much ( mid 30's plus would be nice) and also without having to constantly rag the balls of it. It's a little confusing trying to work out the exact spec and I'd really appriciate some advice.


I'm currently thinking:

Modified Metro manifold with T2 turbo from a Renualt 5, boost about 10 psi?
I'll probably keep the standard head and cam, although possibly a Kent 266 or Mg metro one.
Mega squirt/Mega-jolt ( not enterely sure on the difference!)
I'd also fitting an Intercooler, oil cooler and a Big bore exhaust

How does that sound, anything obviously going to blow up?

Cheers,

Will

It should work.

Not sure what your cylinder head is but A+ head are generally regarded to have better quality valves so would be tempted to use an A+ head at a minimum. Keeping it away from det will be a necessity as my guess is that the standard pistons will be the weak point here.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

All sounds sensible to me.
Megajolt is an ignition only system so would be fine. Megasquirt is a full ECU with fuel injector control. Not necessary for your build as you've described it.

1275 N/A Sprite, 998 T2 Turbo Mayfair
1275 EFi Turbo

Thanks chaps, it's reassuring to know that at least some of my research is paying off!

I'm pretty sure my cylinder head is just a standard 12G940 A series unit, would you recommend fitting new valves to that or just going and getting an A+

Needless to say i'd get it tuned up on a rolling road.

Thanks dan, looks like a Megajot is the way to go, I've also been looking at 123 ignitions, they seem similar but use the existing dizzy set-up, are they worth considering?

Cheers,

Will

the 123 is good if you want a reliable drop in replacement, but you dont get the adjustability or acuracy if a megajolt.

A and A+ heads are basically the same, apart from lead free seats in he A+, but you can get them put in the A head.

If you want to keep it stock looking get the original head modified, at least you know it's all nice and fresh then!

Make sure you have a nice big drip tray to catch all the oil that is going to piss out of the rear main bearing.

When, as you will eventually, go to rebuild the engine look at MED website for the Sprite/Midget rear seal conversion.

I am fitting one to the engine for the van and I,m hopeful as it looks like a properly engineered solution, not like the Mickey Mouse version available elsewhere - but then, it IS MED !

Edited by tadge44 on 20th Jun, 2014.