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Home > Beginners Tech > Turbo not working.

thomas_hmlo

6 Posts
Member #: 10477
Junior Member

My Mini is a 1991 ERA turbo.

With the previous exercise of sorting out the engine problem, my car was running fine until today.
Well.... Until yesterday.
Tried searching for similar topic thru google without success.

The problem with the car is now when driving, there is no turbo boost.
The turbo bar gauge does not go beyond 0 bar.

Spent a lot of time yesterday checking the tubes and replaced the followings;
A. Fuel filter at the engine firewall.
B. The rubber tube which connects to the boost modulator because the tube has a split.
C. Replaced the fuel regulator and the tubes which connect to the fuel regulator.
D. Replaced the tubes which connect to the carbs. They are tight and no air leak.
E. Replaced the small rubber tubes which are located nearby the master brake cylinder.
F. Blanking off the tube which connects to the anti run on valve.

But the car turbo gauge is still not go beyond 0 bar.

Last time after repairing I heard some leaking sound when the car is under boost.... But it seems the turbo was kicking in. Then I did not drive it for one week.

Please kindly help!!


Carlzilla

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3673 Posts
Member #: 9300
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Quarry Bonk

Have you checked the actuator? If that has broken then the wastegate won't be held shut, and you won't make boost. Also check pipework to the wastegate. Also have you tried another boost gauge incase the one you have is broken?

On 26th Jan, 2012 Tom Fenton said:
ring problems are down to wear or abuse but although annoying it isn't a show stopper

On 5th Aug, 2014 madmk1 said:
Shit the bed! I had snapped the end of my shaft off!!

17.213 @ 71mph, 64bhp n/a (Old Engine)


Turbo This..

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1767 Posts
Member #: 9165
Previously josh4444

Australia, brisbane

also if your using the hif44 turbo carb with its factory manifold?
there is a small plastic valve thing built into it perhaps that is leaking/not installed?


Edited by Turbo This.. on 5th Jan, 2014.


thomas_hmlo

6 Posts
Member #: 10477
Junior Member

Thanks for the quick reply. Let me check
The actuator push rod is working by blowing air with a compression air gun. Since the engine is still in the car I have not yet test the the actuator is actually function properly, even though the rod is pushing.

I am using the turbo carb with original manifold. The plastic valve is a turbo dump valve? I have not yet take it apart for inspection.

One interesting thing.... The original radio in the car is now giving interference noise to speakers.... Guess it is not turbo related but it makes me think whether the turbo no boost is electrically related.


Rammie2000

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belgium

not that smart on turbo's yet but how can something mechanical have something to do with electrical? exept when it rubbed trough some cabels. what i do know is that when an engine sends out surtain vibrations it can dissort the radio output signal. ( we sometimes have to cope with that when we instal instalations into boomcars) usually that means that the engine isnt running properely. (like in the case of you) but only ever had it with a reving engine.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018


Turbo This..

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1767 Posts
Member #: 9165
Previously josh4444

Australia, brisbane

from the sound of it you where making boost but it was not not getting into the manifold or where ever your gauge is hooked in as you said you could hear hissing sounds just before losing boost?

perhaps a boost hose has come off or split?
perhaps the turbo is frozen/seized

id think you could feel if the car is making boost or not but perhaps you could test the boost gauge with compressed air and give it a suck *hehe!* to see if it reads vacuum just to be sure

if all basic things check out like
boost lines split/cracked/fallen off/clamps lose/actuator not lose/ spring pressure holding the waste gate closed/manifold gaskets not leaking

id think its something internal like a missing turbine/compressor wheel *blush*
or the waste gate or carb over boost thing not sealing?


if you dont have an electronic boost control thing then you should not have any electrical turbo related thing id have thought?


not real sure there are a bunch of things that could result in no boost..


Turbo This..

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1767 Posts
Member #: 9165
Previously josh4444

Australia, brisbane

just read your first post again..
you say you have a boost modulator thing??
if you do id throw it in the hedge! that thing bleeds boost off..


thomas_hmlo

6 Posts
Member #: 10477
Junior Member

Sorry for the misleading. The boost modulator I was referring is a factory installed item. This is located on top of the radiator bracket.

I also tested the turbo gauge by sucking and blowing air thru a tube. It appears the gauge is working OK.

Haha. A lot of sucking and blowing using my mouth in this exercise. Also had a good taste of the fuel fume because I was testing the fuel regulator tubing for leakage and one of the tubes actually had gasoline came out. So I replaced the fuel regulator.


wil_h

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9258 Posts
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Betwix Harrogate and York

I would say that there are only a few reasons why you would make no boost:

1) the turbo is broken, either seized or the shaft is broken.
2) The wastgate is stuck open
3) The piping from compressor to plenum is split, missing or disconnected

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:

the design shows a distinct lack of imagination,
talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol

On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry.


Joe C

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12307 Posts
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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

Well first off it sounds like your checking stuff in a logical fashion which is good,

as above check the boost hose from the turbo to carb (I assume theres no intercooler)

sounds like you've checked all the small hoses with boost pressure on, but do give then another check, also try disconnecting the boost modulator valve on the rad, if this is stuck open then it may be dumping all the pressure that is feeding the gauge... but the engine is actually still making boost.

its woth pulling the hose off that feeds from the air filter to the turbo and check the turbo is spinning freely, it should windmil at idle and if you rev should spin up fast. Also try it without that hose connected, I have known these hoses to suck flat.

also, often somthing people dont realize.... you wont get boost without engine load, so you have to be driving the car, not just reving it.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



thomas_hmlo

6 Posts
Member #: 10477
Junior Member

Did more checking today! Hope it will not be too boring.

A. Check the Plenum chamber by replacing with another one. Check the pressure of both before installing.... By holding compress air gun. They both hold the same pressure value. The screws which mount the chamber to the fiber tray were so difficult to align. Luckily with patient... They went back to the original location.

B. Replace the tee shape joint. Mine was plastic and change to metal material. Well.... That is only to prevent future breaking. One of the tubes has a split and I replaced it.

C. Check the fuel pump by taking it off. Only has a very small bit of rust accumulated at the pump mesh. Anyhow, sine the one I used is has different nosle size, I replaced it with the one I got from MS.

D. Checked air filter tubing no damage. Also replace the air filter with K&N which fits the original air box. Plugged the fresh air vent since I do not use it. Plus too many dust accumulated along the tube and the sponge inside the tube. Removing the air filter is never an easy job as the metal clips at the top touch the body panel. Anyhow, untight the screws which hold
the air filter housing. The fitting can be completed

E. Check engine oil level, check and replace the spark plug per user manual....

F. Replace the ECU with Metro turbo ECU. The tube connects to
Plastic connector was dripping oil. Replace the tube and plug in my second ECU.

G. Also check the boost gauge tube. The tube is with oil in. Clean the tube and put it back.

H. Took away the big rubber tube connect to the plenum chamber flow. Not too high flow coming out.

After all these checking. Some
Improvement but no time
To check further due to
Time limitation.

But found out the bolts at the cylinder head inlet and exhaust manifold are loose!!

Edited by thomas_hmlo on 10th Jan, 2014.


snoskiguy

4 Posts
Member #: 11400
Junior Member

Thomas, Did you ever figure out the problem? Mine just did this to me yesterday. It ran great and went to shift and lost power. Now there is no boost. I unhooked the intake from the plenum and I can hear the turbo spool at 3000 rpm and the engine runs fine off atmosphere but when they are hooked up it has no boost.

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