Weight reduction - Biggest Bang for your buck ?
Turbo Mini Forums

I havent properly checked the "how to" section but this is a subject i have been intersted in a lot recently having taken up road bike racing, and having dropped 30 lbs or so personally recently and seeing the benifits.

(I notice there is a great sub frame lightening post, but not an overall subject)

I think it would be benificial to rank the best weight savings in the car with respect to the minimum outlay ??


So I've been thinking...As an engineer I like thinking.

In fact I probably spend too much time thinking about the most efficient / most cost effective way to achieve what you want to achieve instead of just getting on with it, but still I like to run the traps, as it re-assures me that I have done the right thing (since having to work for a living, I don't get enough time in the garage) and also to help other less experienced Enthusiasts to make the right decisions early on, in order to learn for our mistakes and spend the money in the right areas?

I have recently been running some "analyses" into weight reduction of the car. The motor is probably as developed as I want it to be / can afford it to be, and there has been the trend on this site for a while with exactly this in mind.

It is interesting to note however that some replacement parts that "on the face of it" look great may be aren't as benificial as the lump of cash that you shell out for them, and what they would have you believe....well in my mind any way. Alloy bits and bobs look great but how much do they really save you, in terms of what you pay for them ?

Recently, and purely for my own benifit, I have been ranking the top weight reduction mods in terms of most benifit for least cost. (based on the assumption that your time is free since you enjoy doing what ever you are doing to the bloody car anyway?).

Early on I followed the vizard guide basics. FG Front end, (and not just for the weight saving), cut out the back seat and pockets, bin the steel battery box in favour of an FG one, chuck out the heater and stereo and so on etc, etc.

So with all that done, the car weighs in at 557kgs with addition of turbo, intercooler and full cage, alloy wheels (tank on empty).

For the later shells the hands down winner, looks to be chipping off the "tar like" sound deadening, the cost per kilo of this mod is practically negligible, verses the cost of tidy up paint.

I recall matty even went so far as to rationalize his wiring, in this pursuit.

The next one on the list has to be the cutting of lightening holes in to the steel. Not just any steel but into the thick wall heavy sections such as the front subby etc. I believe Mr. Calver has stated that his hole cut boot floor was infact lighter than a carbon fiber replacement, so there is definately some merit in this alone, but need to be careful not to go too far.

Next on the list has to be the beam conversion. With the original KAD alloy arms and latterly this science reaching its zenith with the Force racing Titanium options, there is an optimum depended on the budget. Infact lb for GBP the 5.7 lb steel FR option even with original arms and coil overs offers a 50% saving over the original rear subby for a measily 220GBP investment (not including cost of coil overs). However, beyond this in terms of price the titanium options yeild further weight savings albeit at marginally exponetially increased costs(understandably). Good for the racer, perhaps not the best for the shoe string budget weekend warrior.

At this point it would also be a good idea to point out that equal amounts of % weight reduction should be done to both the front and rear of the car to not spoil the weight distrubution. for example lopping 10kgs off the rear increases effective BHP, but if you dont take the same off the front you will effect the feel and handling of the car by making the front heavyand the back end looser ? obviously you can play with the suspension settings but you can only do so much. All things in moderation / balance is the name of the game.

Please understand I am not having a go at anyone, but merly trying to find the happy medium for those of us who want the best possible performance on the relative budgets we have.

The "chinese copy" super fins offer a good reduction for a low price, giving a cost / weight reduction of less than 0.3. Reliability is yet to be confirmed but for the casual racer they should be ok.

******Work in prgress****** (time for bed)

Comments welcome, note this is not meant to be a rant, but more the pursuit of the most cost effecive performance, which is why I went turbo in the first place....hee hee.

Vegards door lightening was a good post as I recall, with some 5kgs per side,

I think what i am try to summarise here is that there are some great savings you can make here throught the use of good olde elbow grease and some smart investements, based on this you can achieve some great results on a budget???

Edited by Brocky on 24th May, 2013.

BTW - I took my buddy VTEC Pete out for a spin this weekend, and even though I am running her in, he gave it a name, the "Brocket"...cause I'm a brocket maaannn, nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah....

Build thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=7483

Katy Mini Owners Club Thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=505552

Let's make sure you embarrass at least one VTEC MINI today !

https://www.facebook.com/groups/17557298589...096464253807802

Windows side and rear -15kgs

Or a lithium battery, but this is a big outlay

Check star mags and 1380 rich's build threads for some ideas, as i was once told.

Good point Nic

I recently switched to an mr2 lead acid battery which I think was about 2/3rds of the size of my standard mini battery, just have to be careful not to let the electric fan run on though after turning the ignition though

I notice you can even get lexan windows that go into the crome frames for the rear quarters if you like the look...:)

Edited by Brocky on 24th May, 2013.

BTW - I took my buddy VTEC Pete out for a spin this weekend, and even though I am running her in, he gave it a name, the "Brocket"...cause I'm a brocket maaannn, nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah....

Build thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=7483

Katy Mini Owners Club Thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=505552

Let's make sure you embarrass at least one VTEC MINI today !

https://www.facebook.com/groups/17557298589...096464253807802

Nice one Carlzilla,

Not meaning to get on my soap box lol :) just felt like typing

My point is we can all run out and spend 400 quid on alloy calipers to save a kilo or 2 but could that money be spent else where first.

Edited by Brocky on 24th May, 2013.

BTW - I took my buddy VTEC Pete out for a spin this weekend, and even though I am running her in, he gave it a name, the "Brocket"...cause I'm a brocket maaannn, nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah....

Build thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=7483

Katy Mini Owners Club Thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=505552

Let's make sure you embarrass at least one VTEC MINI today !

https://www.facebook.com/groups/17557298589...096464253807802

One not so obvious one is to remember to take out the spare wheel and jack / wheel brace if running your fast road car down the strip or around a sprint track:) especially if your spare is a steely...and not fill up the tank before, if you dont need to.

Edited by Brocky on 24th May, 2013.

BTW - I took my buddy VTEC Pete out for a spin this weekend, and even though I am running her in, he gave it a name, the "Brocket"...cause I'm a brocket maaannn, nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah....

Build thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=7483

Katy Mini Owners Club Thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=505552

Let's make sure you embarrass at least one VTEC MINI today !

https://www.facebook.com/groups/17557298589...096464253807802

I think you basically know all the easy stuff. And yes as it gets harder, the cost/pound (dollar) increases exponentially.

Just one correction. To keep the front rear balance the same, you need to remove the same amount by %, not kilo for kilo.

But the reality is, you will manage to lose a lot more at the rear than the front.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

Ill second the glass but also say doors and boot. I cant remember of top of my head but the saving was huge

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Good read, I'm getting ready to strengthen and lighten my subframe soon. Also my boot floors rotten/patched so will probably put an ally sheef of cf one in :).

Adrian

My mk2 shell, has poly sliding windows, but i'm hoping to get the matching quarters and rear screen. Door's have had their pockets removed (the complete doors with windows weight nothing), got a fibreglass boot, and going to fibre bonnet, i'm not going mad though, its only a fun car and i'm trying to keep it on budget

Fuel tank, or rather the contents of...

the standard 7.5gal tank is 35ish litres (ie 35kg) if you can stand a tank half this size then thats 17kg saved and a bit for the tank itself... plus you can move the tank lower and more central for better weight distribution.

Also pick your wheels well, the variation in weight is suprising.

heater is another good one,

Bolts and studs are a good one, I have swapped 99% of mine and it soon adds up fast how much the saving is,

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

Street fightered Doors, fg / cf boot and bonnet are a massive saving for little cost and some time with a grinder/ hole saw

Avon 2010 class c 3rd
Avon 2011 class c 2nd 13.8 @ 98mph

I'd say doors really. Mine are still standard glass etc! I have no lightweight parts as such just done all the basics!

Windows! Buy a 3 mm polycarbonate sheet and cut to size with a saw. Then you can choose to use the chrome on the rear quarters or not. I lay the original windows on the sheet. Spraypaint the perimeter of the window, and cut :) the poly sheet have a peel of protection on both sides, so the new window will not be damaged by the paint :)

www.shag.no

If your car is fitted with 13" wheels a good weight saving is fitting 10". Eben the lightest 13" are heavier than the lightest 10". Lets not open the handling argument, and I will be sticking with my 13".

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

this maybe of use http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=171654

Perfect, I hadn't realized the FG front end save so much, definately some good numbers to work with.

BTW - I took my buddy VTEC Pete out for a spin this weekend, and even though I am running her in, he gave it a name, the "Brocket"...cause I'm a brocket maaannn, nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah....

Build thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=7483

Katy Mini Owners Club Thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=505552

Let's make sure you embarrass at least one VTEC MINI today !

https://www.facebook.com/groups/17557298589...096464253807802

Ian's car is now a minus...so light. Lol

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Late Rover oem front windscreen is a boat anchor. The cheap replacements are almost half the weight.

As an aside to the theme of this thread, is there any particular reason why re-skinned doors are favoured over full CF/FG doors?

This has been a head scratcher for me for some time!

I took about 9KG per door of my car by fitting alu skins, a few holes and plastic electric windows .

Righto, thanks chaps, I'll get some Al skins on the 'to buy' list...