Cheap fuel regulators
Turbo Mini Forums

Looking for a fuel regulator for my Abarth racecar. It will run a 1242 8V with tb's. was looking at eBay, and its lots of fuel regulators, many are cheap no-brands. Have anybody tryed any of these? What's the one to go for?

www.shag.no

I was thinking abut this
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?...8393&cmd=VIDESC

www.shag.no

Totally un necessary. You dont need an adjustable one, do you? You dont neeed a gauge, do you?

The ajustable regulators add an un necessary complication and confuse matters when you are trying to find an answer to the problem you might be having........ It's adjustable so you'll adjust it.

Use a good quality fixed pressure regulator. I will only recommend the Webcon or Weber Alpha regulator, as it is a brand you can trust

as above,

SC do one that uses the weber guts for a decent price.

http://www.twinkam.co.uk/shop/article_SC01...aid%3DSC0109%26

Thanks boys. I dont think the gauge is nessasery, but adjustable would be good I think? The one I was posting has the AN connections wich is sort of nice, but I dont like/need the colors
I guess that SC is a turbo one?? My engine is a NA.
After searching arond a little, I think this is what I end up with:
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/bch-0280160001

www.shag.no

yeah it looks like the SC one is turbo as it has the little pipe for boost referencing,

last time I was up there John was showing them, they can do them with different pressures (as the weber insert comes in different pressures)

Why do you need adjustable? Think about it. Turbo or N/A the fuel pressure is the same. You only really increase fuel pressure to increase fuel flow with the same size injector. Size the injector correctly for the aplication and use the standard fuel pressure of 3 or 3.5bar.

Even with the nipple for boost it will work the same for N/A whether you also connect it or just leave it open to atmosphere. There is no real difference

As you are saying, I will use the regulator to correct the flow in the fuel injectors as my guess they are on the big side (tb's from gsx-r1000). I will run the engine in a dyno before putting it in the car

www.shag.no

you dont want to be turning the oressure down to make injectors seem small, you call endf up with poor spray pattern on obver run.

The reference port should really be used whether N/A or forced induction.

The injectors need to work with a constant differential pressure between the fuel and the ports/plenum/throttlebody/whatever they inject into hence even most of the cheap OEM regulators on N/A vehicles still have the reference port.

Standard pressures seem to be 3.0 or 3.5bar , but the pressure will allways be between the fuel and the space it injects into (assuming you have the reference port connected) or the flow won't be constant at different loads for the ECU to calculate.

I have an adjustable with a guage but it's just set at 3.0bar because that works best for me.

The actual difference in flow between 3.0 and 3.5 bar is quite small but it's more important that the pressure differential is kept constant for the ECU to put the correct fuel in as the ECU only measures the ports/plenum/throttlebody/whatever pressure and assumes the fuel pressure (hence flowrate) is a fixed value above that.

Hope that made sense.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

There is no such thing as a specific turbo, SC or n/a regulator.

If they have a reference port at the top, it can do all 3 applications.

But one things for sure, I would not be buying cheap no brand name junk off egay. If you're using the bike ITB's dont these already have a regulator and rail ?

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

Edited by Sprocket on 19th Mar, 2013.

Edited by Rod S on 20th Mar, 2013.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Interesting disscussion. I actually use the cheap Ebay ones on both my injected cars. I took on apart and there is nowt to it, hard for it not to work.

20,000 miles and still working makes me think they are probably upto the job. I know Paul S had a failed on though.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

I take all advices :)

My tb's



As you can see the fuel rail is not good as the fuel are trapped and boils if the engine is stalled. So a new fuelrail with return are needed, and therefor a fuel regulator.
My idea was to use a adjustable regulator to adjust it correctly in the dyno. I will not adjust it any more, and does not want to fit a gauge permanently. The dyno I am going to use have one fitted

A billett fuel rail with fuel regulator would be great, but I am afraid that will be hard to do :( so a external fuel regulator is the easiest way to do it I think

www.shag.no

what are the center distances on those throttles?

If it is 76mm, the K1200 plastic fuel rail has a built in regulator. The regulator is an atmospheric referenced one, but you can use a Peirburg regulator from BMW's that have the nipple for referencing to Manifold pressure

Edited by Sprocket on 20th Mar, 2013.

I don't know the cd, will check when this weekend when I get home.

www.shag.no

I have the fuel rails for my primary injectors as dead end with no return. I have never had any issues with fuel boiling or any starting problems.

Most modern cars run dead end fuel rails too, and as you can see, so does that bike. So unless your intake and rails are mounted above the turbocharger, I really wouldnt worry too much about it.

A return setup may be better or easier for you, but it is not essential.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

This is on a Fiat FIRE engine, so crossflow and no turbo. But a friend have problems with starting a FIRe when the engine is hot, and I figurer it is bevares he have noe retrunline from his TB's.
I am however intriger to try without the retrunline to save some hassle :)

www.shag.no