Water Pump Engine Steady
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi all,

I've not been impressed with any of the engine steady kits available, the DSN one looks nice but to me seems like overkill, and I still don't like the idea of using the thermostat bolts for anything other than the stat!

So, I've been making up an aluminium bracket that bolts on to the WP, CNC milled here, I'm going to make a bracket to weld onto the crossmember, and tie it in the same as the steady on the OS with a plate on the top too. Will have a rose joint on one end and rubber bush on the other, anyone else interested?

Here's a pic, will be trying to get the other bits made up shortly!



TC

p.s. the bits in the background are the prototypes, and the latest shape weighs 61g in 5mm ally :)

Edited by topcat on 30th Aug, 2012.

www.topcatcustom.co.uk

They do look pretty cool what sort of price you be selling them at?

Minispares already do those

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

So do W&P, and they're heavy steel listed at 1kg, and with crappy wide bushes in single shear!

Hope to make them cheap enough to consider instead of the steel ones Chalkie!

www.topcatcustom.co.uk

I might be interested dependant on price and if it would fit together with the supercharger belt that will be pretty close to this.

Dazed and Confused....

It fits behind the WP pulley by approx 9mm (off the top of my head), does the blower drive go infront?

www.topcatcustom.co.uk

They look nice, but I have concerns about using the water pump bolts. At the point that the bracket mounts to the bolts is about an inch from the block, would this not put extra stress on them?

However, I cannot see how else you would do it in that area...

I'd be interested, price dependant.

Kean, personally I think it is better than using the small thermostat bolts that most use, and the water pump is a nice rigid piece of ally that provides a good solids spacer for the bracket to mount to.

By using 2 fixing holes over 3" apart I think it helps too.

I did consider using other points, such as the water bypass hole with a big thread under the head (thermostat end) but wasn't sure about it, although it could still make a decent position, with a steel top hat wound in tight, providing a point to bolt a rose joint to perhaps?

Anyway these should be strong enough, I'm pretty adamant that I want to use a weld on bracket to the cross member, although this could be bolted through but wouldn't be as strong.

www.topcatcustom.co.uk

I made one of these for my engine and so far it has worked great. I used a cut down rod from Carl to link to the bulkhead.

I have an extra bend in mine to move the bracked on the bulkhead towards the inner wing. It give a little more space for the turbo inlet.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

I agree with the thermostat bolts also. On my old engine all I had was one rose jointed steady in the normal position, and normal rubber engine mounts. Maybe its my driving style but I never had any need for extra steadies.

Just knocked up the "rod" part, so long as there is plenty of thread in the ally I think it should be strong enough, I was thinking about doing one in titanium but a bit overkill where there is a 30year old lump of cast iron sitting next to it creating most of the weight!



also once the length is set, I reckon it would be a lot stronger if the thread was loctited in, so may be worth doing it in ally.

Edited by topcat on 30th Aug, 2012.

www.topcatcustom.co.uk

Looks very nicely done

looking good what sort of price are you thinking? a picture of it fitted would be good too

Edited by wng691s clubby on 30th Aug, 2012.

Done now needs redoing lol

Got to fit it first! Also my bearing supplier doesn't think he can get rose joints with a thread longer than 25mm, seems a bit daft, will ask him to look into it I think.

www.topcatcustom.co.uk