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Home > 998cc > water pump modifications for 1275 head

pickmeup

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568 Posts
Member #: 1200
Post Whore

Bristol

Hi all, ive finally fitted the engine into the pickup and of course completely forgot the water pump needed to be modified on the 998 cause of fitting the bigger 1275 head.

Does anyone have any photos or dimensions on how much meat i can safely take off the housing?

Cheers

Gaz


booton

23 Posts
Member #: 9792
Member

i had the same problem but you can buy a smaller pulley of a 1275. not sure which one.
i personally would not touch the head.
i think it this one.
http://www.minisport.com/mini-spare-parts/info_CAM6239.html


pickmeup

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568 Posts
Member #: 1200
Post Whore

Bristol

no its nothing to do with the pulley, its the actual waterpump you need to modify as the 1275 head is bigger than the 998, ive started grinding a 45degree angle into the top of the housing but ive lost the old pump that i took off the engine to copy :(


Ben H

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3329 Posts
Member #: 184
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Melton Mowbray, Pie Country

You need to take off as much as you need to make it clear. You won't go through to the pump, just take a file to it until the head fits.

I know this sounds obvious, but it really is that simple.

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Spank

55 Posts
Member #: 909
Advanced Member

What Ben H said-- it ain't all that difficult.

There's a couple of things going on here and people are answering the question they think you are asking...

Fitting a 1275 water pump into an early 998 or 1098 block has sometimes required filing or grinding of the impeller or inside of the block for impeller clearance, but not much.

Sometimes the water pump (998 or 1275 pumps) outer casting needs to be filed flat because it sits above the deck of the block and can make contact with the head and not allow the head to clamp down as it should. File test fit. File test fit. repeat.

Then of course there's the issue of using the large water pump pulley with a 1275 head. I prefer to stick with the large diameter pulley so I grind the heck out of the head casting so I get enough clearance. I haven't burned through before, but I'm sure I've gotten bloody close.


Hope this helps address all of the potential questions other may have.


mcalvert39

388 Posts
Member #: 442
Senior Member

Manchester

cant you space out the pully instead? Going to make fitting the belt abit difficult wont it?


Spank

55 Posts
Member #: 909
Advanced Member

I suppose you could, but you would also need to then space over the alternator and also the crank pulley. Easier to just grind a bit more so the belt slips in and out. That's all I do.


pickmeup

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568 Posts
Member #: 1200
Post Whore

Bristol

thanks for the advice spank, ive been having a mare with a lot of the new parts for the pickup, having spent a couple of hours this morning getting the bonnet release catch working was not fun.

Ive got to the point above where the water pump pulley needs to be fitted, ive only got large pulleys so was wondering about modding the head or somehow the pulley but your photo shows exactly what im after.

can i also ask what you done regarding the top rad bracket? did you add spacers for the 1275 bracket or make a new bespoke one?


Asphalt

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509 Posts
Member #: 1027
Post Whore

Germini, black forrest



That'S how much I had to remove. I fitted the smal pulley. And made the top rad mount of out two stripes of aluminium. Not beuatifull, but purposefull. Quick-n-dirty racing *happy* Whole engine cost me less than 40 *happy*

I also thought about enlogating the holes in the pump to mount it a bit lower - but was too lazy to do it...

Engine runs smooth as a nut and cooling does not pose any problems at all. The only thing that caused a problem was a craked water hose runing down to the Metro oil cooler... Which dropped all the coolant. Tough little 998 survived 15 miles without water (thats when I noticed).

Edited by Asphalt on 23rd Apr, 2012.

[X] nail here for new monitor

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