Pinky's build thread
Turbo Mini Forums

Well ive been making some good progress with the engine build as of late and I thought Id show you guys what Ive been up to.

Some pics :


The head as I got it placed on the mock-up block. I got the head sent over from Germany( German girlfriend found it on the German eBay) as I couldnt find one here.



The head has been welded as ill be running full dry deck.



Special tool for marking out where the holes have to be for the oil seals in the top plate.



The crank fresh from wedging and blading.



And once Id fettled it abit.



The rods after a run-in with the die-grinder. Cooper S



For last 2 weeks ive been busy with the bottom 2 oil seal holders and the crank pulley. Oilpump jack-shaft oil seal holder.



The crank oil seal holder.





Well that brings us pretty much upto date. Hopefully this week I cant finalise the the oil seal holders the then start on the cam jack-shafts.

Let me know what you think and sorry for the crap quality photos.

"So wat we gonna do tonight Brain?"
"Same thing we do evernight Pinky!"
"Try to take over the world!"

that's looking good :)

what stroke is the crank?

SA 1100 stroked 3mm. So it should be around about 73mm

"So wat we gonna do tonight Brain?"
"Same thing we do evernight Pinky!"
"Try to take over the world!"

The big question, Is this going to be a turbo screamer? :)

Fantastic Cant wait to see how this goes keep the updates comming :)

Muhahahaha

I like your style!

seriously? the engines red!

good skills

looking good.

Cheers guys. It will end up as a turbo screamer as soon as I can source the right turbo at the right price (It sucks being a poor student)
Nic I thought you might ! Ha ha ha
Finnished the crank oil seal holder today.

Now for the camshaft jackshafts.....any suggestions on the type of material i should use ? I was thinking stainless, but its a bitch to machine.

"So wat we gonna do tonight Brain?"
"Same thing we do evernight Pinky!"
"Try to take over the world!"

Sup rat,

from my design book, any cold-drawn or hot-rolled ANSI 1020-1050 steels should be fine

if you do the maths i have everything needed to design them jackshafts

Cheers Dyl ! We ll chat on friday.

I havent taken anymore photos but the bottom pulley and cam gear are both finnished. Ill mission and get some pics up tomorrow.

But now, beerfest at the vet training farm ! Hello ladies !!!!!

"So wat we gonna do tonight Brain?"
"Same thing we do evernight Pinky!"
"Try to take over the world!"

Small update.

Made some bobins for the valve cover as I didnt get any with the head or cover.






Ill use an O-ring as a seal and stainless button head allen-cap bolts to hold the cover on.

"So wat we gonna do tonight Brain?"
"Same thing we do evernight Pinky!"
"Try to take over the world!"

Small update !

Picked up three of these babies this morning.



Its a drilling template for marking out where the new stud holes have to be in the deck of the block.
So the block and the one template is at the engineering works and they should get cracking with that next week.

"So wat we gonna do tonight Brain?"
"Same thing we do evernight Pinky!"
"Try to take over the world!"

I nearly stroked my SA crank on my NA 5 porter but decided against it due to the costs, should be a very nice engine. I shall be watching.

What CC does it work out as?

I missed this build, its coming on well!

I like your oil seal plates.

I wouldn't bother using stainless for the cam adapters unless you can really be arsed with machining it? I used mild steel for mine, I'll try and find out what grade...but it wasn't anything special. Being able to machine a good finish for the seal to run on is something to consider though.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Jetbrick it works out at about 1222 cc.
Matty, thanks that would be great.

"So wat we gonna do tonight Brain?"
"Same thing we do evernight Pinky!"
"Try to take over the world!"

Well I was super stoked to pick up my block today from the engineering works.

Got there and it looked awesome plugged, decked and bored.

Anyway got it home and decided to fit the studs and the head.........well the new stud holes arent all at 90 deg to the block so head doesnt go on.

Not really sure what they can do to fix it apart fron replugging the holes and drilling and tapping them again.

Was really hoping to be able to do a dry build this weekend but hey shit happens.

"So wat we gonna do tonight Brain?"
"Same thing we do evernight Pinky!"
"Try to take over the world!"

that is a shitter, :(

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

I think it might have been sprocket that did this.

He had the block drilled at a larger Dia than the head studs needed to be. He did this because the drills wandered and gave the problems youve got.

He then had the block drilled properly so as that all of the studs where drilled into the plugs and this helped with the wandering. I think he may have had it done on a CNC machine aswell. And very slowly.

However its been a while. I could be making this up. Sprox?

You'd probably be best to open the holes out on a mill, so they stay perpendicular to the block face. You could then helicoil them or even better use time sert.

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www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

I had the same issue as well as less than perfect placement of the studs making the head ever so SLIGHTLY out of dead straight, which made for belt tracking troubles. I then redrilled the old holes to M14 and put steel bolts in there. I then got access to ha proper rottler CNC machine. programmed in the stud placement, put the block in the machine fastened on the crank centreline. Then we clocked the stud placement up against the middle between 2 and 3, aswell as the crank centreline before we pressed play on the machine.

I now have the studs perfectly placed (including drilling for locating dowels around it) and it proper steel, not putty cast.

The latter is important to you as you probably have skimmed the block quite a lot to get the pistons up to the deck due to your short stroke. This leaves you with short threads for the headstuds....

Well Ive had another look and it looks like the placement of the studs is spot-on. So its just that the stud holes have not been tapped 90 deg to the deck of the block.

Ive decided to do a basic dry build in any case as I can get the head to fit with most of the studs in, I will use this to check the deck height and mark out the valve cut-outs. Once thats done it will all go to the engineering works for them to sort out.

I will also suggest that the stud holes are drilled out and re-plugged with steel inserts and then drilled and tapped again. Hopefully they will do it right second time around.

EDIT- I cant type !

Edited by pinkyandnobrain on 9th May, 2010.

"So wat we gonna do tonight Brain?"
"Same thing we do evernight Pinky!"
"Try to take over the world!"

Update time.

With most of the engine bits at the engineering works Ive decided to crack on with some of the bits for the belt drive system.



Jackshafts, still need ther pins and key-ways machined. Washers for the cams and a washer for the oil-pump jackshaft.

I also sorted out some bits to ensure that the oil-pump jackshaft has the right amout of end-float but i left it my friends house where I did the machining. Ill pick it up tomorrow and post some more pics.

"So wat we gonna do tonight Brain?"
"Same thing we do evernight Pinky!"
"Try to take over the world!"

Oil-pump jackshaft is done.


This is the oil seal runner, made from a cooper s steel sprocket (teeth where buggered).


The jackshaft with its hybrid keyway to help locate the oil-seal runner and the pulley.


In the block.


Im quite excited about the project now after the bugger up with the block.

Oh and sorry about the crappy photos, I must organise a proper camera.

"So wat we gonna do tonight Brain?"
"Same thing we do evernight Pinky!"
"Try to take over the world!"