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Home > Technical Chat > Crank casting numbers???

doctormini

45 Posts
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Yeovil,ZomerZet! The Land of the Cider tree!

G'day all,

Im in the process of building a new, and supercharged engine for "NED" my pride and joy, always wanted to go for forced induction and now the time is here! (Its taken me years!!)

Whilst stripping down the engine I came across the number "CAM 6581" Stamped on the Crank, this is not a number Ive come across before? Im used to seeing "6232" or something like that, cant remember exactly. Now correct me if Im wrong here, but is the 6232 or what ever it is the supposed a Nitrided crank, and therefore the one to use?? The engine Im stripping down came out of a "F" plate 1989 Metro Turbo. So was expecting to see the 6232 on the side of it.

Has anyone got the foggiest what "CAM 6581" might be??*oh well*

Thanks for your help!

Regards

Rob


theoneeyedlizard

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7265 Posts
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The Boom Boom speaker Police!

Essex

It's a turbo crank.

This might be of some help

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=9035




On 20th Nov, 2004 AlexF2003 said:
All turbo heads are different, sodium cooled exh valves mean a bigger stem which is easily visable under the rockers!

Early turbo engines are different...

The Crank is often a CAM 6232 which is the as any other 1275 (bar old stuff). But some have "turbo" cranks CAM 6581 - much harder, and longer lasting.

Early blocks with WFM1024 on the back (IIRC) have different main bearing compair to other 1275s - the bottom half bearing shell is solid. After 1992 all 1275s adopted this thou and the part number moved to the front.

Early blocks are commonly linered as well for some reason!

Piston wise.. the majoprity I have seen are 20831s but there are some funny 4 ring low comp ones and later 20353 (IIRC).

Any use?

Alex





In the 13's at last!.. Just


Vegard

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7763 Posts
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I pick holes in everything..

Chief ancient post excavator

Norway

Early turbo-crank. They may be speciael. noone knows. Treat it like a regular A+ crank.

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



TurboDave16V
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SouthPark, Colorado

Early engines (circa pre '85) didn't seem to have the 6581 crank - these ran the 6232.
The 6581 is definately different in some manner, as the majority are in great shape even after sending one metro to the grave. We haven't got a soild answer on why it is different though.

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
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MikeRace

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Didnt fenton test them or summat or am i talkin kack.

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doctormini

45 Posts
Member #: 849
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Yeovil,ZomerZet! The Land of the Cider tree!

Sounds to me like I got a good one then? Many thanks for your input, much appreiciacted! I'll be very interested if any more info comes outa the wood work.! Cheers Chaps!


doctormini

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Member #: 849
Member

Yeovil,ZomerZet! The Land of the Cider tree!

Sounds to me like I got a good one then? Many thanks for your input, much appreiciacted! I'll be very interested if any more info comes outa the wood work.! Cheers Chaps!


Turbo Phil

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Lake District

The 6581 cranks do seem to be something different from the stock 6232. As Dave said, they seem to be somewhat harder wearing. My 6581 crank has now covered over 100,000 and is still std/std and in good condition, despite it spending the last 8 years in my engine.
I picked up another one at an autojumble recently just to add to my stockpile.
Whether they're hardened differently or a higher grade material, nobody's sure. But if you have one in good condition it's the one to use.

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TurboDave16V
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SouthPark, Colorado

Glad I'm not the only one who is still running theirs at STD/STD. *smiley*
I always feel like I shouldn't admit it, but every time i check it, it still looks like new...

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



Turbo Phil

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My sister is so fit I won't show anyone her picture

Lake District

On 24th Apr, 2008 TurboDave said:
Glad I'm not the only one who is still running theirs at STD/STD. *smiley*
I always feel like I shouldn't admit it, but every time i check it, it still looks like new...



Yeah i've certainly had my moneys worth out of mine. The whole Metro it came from only cost me £100 !
Didn't Jim have one to ?

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Vegard

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Norway

The one I removed from BIR1 was std/std as well, no idea on how long it's been in there, but that's been given some stick for sure. Also, I think the plain bearings help to reduce crank wear, as you often see the ridges in the centre main on the old type. BE wear is something else though.

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



doctormini

45 Posts
Member #: 849
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Yeovil,ZomerZet! The Land of the Cider tree!

The one I have is also all std, never been ground. looks sweet to, but will be sticking a mic over it before it goes back in just to make sure. Reckon I got a bargain to, the car this engine came out of had 2mths tax on it and 4mths MOT and I paid £175 for it, well that was about 6 years or so ago now but still a bargain I reckon!

When it comes to the bearings them selves, would you recomend changing them for new std ones throughout or just put the original ones back in? I have had thrust bearing problems in the past with other engines and was concerned that if I didnt have the crank reground and fitted new bearings it might cause problems??


Nic

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First mini turbo to get in the 12's & site perv

Herefordshire

On 24th Apr, 2008 TurboDave said:
Glad I'm not the only one who is still running theirs at STD/STD. *smiley*
I always feel like I shouldn't admit it, but every time i check it, it still looks like new...




Dont be ashamed, i am too


fastcarl

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leeds/wakefield.

are these turbo cranks hardened from the factory,

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TurboDave16V
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SouthPark, Colorado

You need to ask Tom - he has some he's getting analysed.

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



Hedgemonkey

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591 Posts
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Stu from Corwall aka Mr Jazz Piano, Love_Machine, kneegrow

Do the ding test.

If one is EN40, it has a higher ding than an EN16 and if it goes clunk, it's fucked.

Bugger off, I'm getting there.


Bat

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Bermingum


On 30th Apr, 2008 Hedgemonkey said:
Do the ding test.

If one is EN40, it has a higher ding than an EN16 and if it goes clunk, it's fucked.


That's what I like about TM, always at the forefront of high technology testing *wink*
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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Jimster
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455bhp per ton
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Sunny Bridgend, South Wales

yes, I have a 6581 crank which is stil std / std. I have one with SH Enginering who is doing some tests on it. Although it's on his back shelf at the moment and it low on his priorities. I'll let you know as soon as I know something

Team www.sheepspeed.com Racing

On 15th May, 2009 TurboDave said:

I think the welsh one has it right!


1st to provide running proof
of turbo twinkie in a car and first to
run a 1/4 in one!!

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austriamini

3 Posts
Member #: 12181
Junior Member

On the patch of my turbo engine is no cam 6581 no cam 6232 there stand cam 6924😳
And engine prefix is 12hc16aa😳
Have anyone a idea what that means?


madmk1

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Double hard bastard

brookwood woking




On 23rd Dec, 2021 austriamini said:
On the patch of my turbo engine is no cam 6581 no cam 6232 there stand cam 6924😳
And engine prefix is 12hc16aa😳
Have anyone a idea what that means?


Not sure about your crank mate....

But i am sure your the first person to use the search button in months 🤣🤣

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

On 1st Nov, 2007 Ben H said:
There is no such thing as 'insignificant weight saving', it all adds up.

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