Bearing shells
Turbo Mini Forums

Is there any prefered method of fitting main bearings shells etc?

I prefer to use my fingers.

Clean hands, and work station.

Simple

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

lol
Only done 1 rebuild once many years ago. I think I just put shells in & bolted it up. Heard other methods since. One was fit shells, use a drop of engineers blue & remove excess material then refit etc. Another is using plastiguage.

Fit the caps and bolts before putting your shells and crank in. (with no bearings or crank) and check that there is no overhang on the inside of the cap, you can check by eye, but i tend to run my finger along the inside. (had probs with the lugs warping)

Then fit the bearings, crank, and add a cap at a time, tighten the bolts and turn the crank to check it spins free, so if it does lock up you know which cap has caused the problem.

Thats all i do and havent had any probs.

Cheers

Mike

Edited by MikeRace on 4th Jan, 2008.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

This is a great book if you are building an engine. I use it every time.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Blueprint-4-cylind...99444275&sr=1-1

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

i'm pretty sure I have a copy of that book.

If your likley to be passing me you can grab it, or i can pop it in the post.

Here is the way I do it, make of it what you will.
1) Beginning with the bare block, after any machining, remove the gallery plugs.
2)With a needle file clean up all edges/corners on mating faces and bearing caps.
3)Clean all machined faces with steel wool.
4)Run a suitable tap down each threaded hole and blow any crap out with air line.
5)Clean out all oil ways with a gallery brush (I make my own from a tea pot spout brush with length of brake pipe crimped to the shaft of the brush to give a suitable length)
6)Clean out crank oil ways as above.
7)Fit three half shells to block and with a little 3in 1 oil carefully put the crank in place.
8)Fit thrust washers and centre cap and torque up. With a dial guage check end float and fix if needed. Check crank can spin easily.
(If it can't investigate)
9)Fit front and rear mains, checking between each being fitted for free rotation.
10)If all is well, dismantle,clean and repeat the assembly with graphogen assembly paste. I also use a little loctite on the main bolt threads.
If you feel you need to check the clearance use Plastiguage.
I would caution against using Blue and scraping any high spots as the plating on the shells is very thin and you are more likely to do damage than improve things.
I have probably missed something but basically the above i how it works for me.
Regards
Dave

Cheers danboy, No secret methods then. Will get some gaskets Saturday and get the old girl back together. :)

lol

Good advice from Dave, the only thing I would add is that the area between the rear of the shell where it fits into the block should be spotless and dry. No not put oil here.

Plastigage is only used to check the running clearances. If the crank has just been polished or recut its a good idea to double check them.

Terry

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk

Plastigage is great:

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...id=179361&fr=25