whos using a remote oil filter?
Turbo Mini Forums

As the title really, ive been toying with the idea since fitting a front rad, but I think its a must now.

Anyone got any preferences of where to buy etc?

Ive also had a thought about making a adapter up that mounts to the block and the filter fits on the side of the adapter 90 degrees to the engine. Has anyone tried this?

Cheers
Matt

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

If you are doing a new build, fit the filter before the pump. Do this by taking oil from the plate that is on the outside of the box where the pick up pipe is, through a filter, then back into the block further up, put a bung in the vertical transfer hole between block and box. Added advantage of moving the filter down the back of the engine out of the way somewhere.

I use one, it came from Merlin motorsport. It flows from right to left and has a take off for a temperature sender. I made an adaptor to replace the original filter housing.

I have to agree and disagree with Tom on this. Excellent for oil pump life, but you'll need som rather thick hoses for this and it's a nightmare. Been there done that.

However, Minispares sell a compelte kit which is god and cheap. Fits Minis, end of story. Buying a set a different place means you have to make up your own filter head thingy.

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=37931

Yuk, push on hoses.....!

Crap, didn't see that. I thought they were proper ones. Push on hoses has got nothing to do on anything with oil in it!

I was looking at ones like this as I need to fit an oil cooler too, I thought the threaded fittings would make it an easy fit. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/REMOTE-OIL-FILTER-TA...VQQcmdZViewItem

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Why does Tom's solution require hoses any thicker than the MiniSpares kit?

I have an engine converted as per Tom's description and it uses standard 1/2" bore oil hose. Its not thick and it certainly isn't a nightmare.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

The only one I have that shows the remote filter is:


Unfortunately I have none of the back of the block and I am not with the car at the moment.

Edited by graemec on 25th Sep, 2007.

I like ALOT :)

How come your still running the standard filter aswell?

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

if you look at the back of an A series block and an A+ block, you will see that it's a bit more tricky todo to an A+ block

Team www.sheepspeed.com Racing

I think I got one of these for mine, top inlet and outlet.
Do you want me to get the camera out again?
Search for MOCRFH4 at http://www.demontweeks.co.uk/default.asp?cls=MSPORT

That ^^^ is an A+ although I never did the conversion myself so couldn't tell you if it was difficult or not!! Jim probably has real experience here.

As for the standard filter as well - the car is used for auto-testing and hence is very hard on gearboxes so the more filtration the better in my book. I don't have a space issue like you front mounted rad guys!

Hi,
I've got the adaptor to fit where the oil filter should be with a 1/2 BSP fitting and a remote filter head, if you're interested, drop me a PM.
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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My Mini build diary

Be very careful of putting a fine filter before the oil pump for a couple of reasons

1) increases load on the pump due to the effective restriction the fluid causes itself as it passes through the filtration medium

2) in some cases there can be a depression at the pump which in extreme cases can cause cavitation, worse with a gear pump than a gyrotor as per the A sereis but still not good practice.

3) Unless there is a reserve of fluid there can be pump priming issues (the filter can be mounted above the height of the pump to assist with this but the pump then has to draw a greater head to draw through the raised filter.)

4) Pumps can generate debris which will not be filtered out before wrecking your engine. There is also a possibility that the filter could disintergrate due to the greater than design differential pressures across it. Less of a problem with cartridge filters than paper type filters obviously. Some filters are designed to be infront of pumps (for example pre-filters on diesel fuel injection systems) which have different internal structures to what you'd find in the normal style automotive oil filters.


If any of the guys working with me ever suggested putting a fine filter in front of a gear pump I'd offer to help clear their desk and carry it out to their car!!!


The reason you'd want larger than normal hoses with the instalation as described is that hoses have to deal with the whole volume of oil passing to the pump. In the normal instalation the external hoses only have to deal with the volume of oil AFTER the pressure regulator ..... you would be supprised how much volume is returned to the sump via the standard A series oil pressure regulator!

You ideally want the oil filter as the last point where there is a gasket / seal interface before critical components like the crank. Gaskets, seals and hoses can all degrade with time and get into places you'd rather not find them!!!

There is no problem with push fit connectors, in fact over the next few years you are likely to see them become common place in automotive applications as it reduces assembly time. The higher the pressure the better a well designed push fit interface will hold.

Do you use push fittings in your household water systems? If not your wasting a lot of time in assembling the systems. I only refuse to use them where I can't get to them easily as they can be an absolute ball ache to disconnect when they have been together for a while. It is true that it is best not to let them completely depressurise then repressurise regularly. They will age over a number of cycles but again that should not trouble a well designed fitting.


Matty I would, personally, use the normal oil system outlet, through an oil thermostat, to a remote housing in the nearside wheel arch area and back to the block at the normal oil filter head drilling. A very compact instalation could be made, even better if you can use hard line for most of the fixed lines as the wall thickness needs to be far less than flexible hose and could also be flatter in section so long as the correct flow area is maintained.

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

That mini looks stunning graemec ,got any more pic's

Roger,

Thanks for taking the time to write that lot out. Very informative and interesting. In some ways my installation is redeemed as the remote filter is above the pump, but not by too much, and I have the standard filter as the last line of defence'. The extra restriction is a little more concerning though but so far no problems. I always get good steady pressure so fingers crossed.

Cossierick - the general project build is on Mini Forum (sorry for cross linking!):
http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/index...showtopic=28500

Surely the filter vertical height is irelevant! It's the height from the pick up to pump that's important and the filter can be anywhere in between without having any effect on the pump output.
Right or wrong?
Regards
Dave

On a fully primed system you could be right, but the initial draw the pump needs to make to get the oil flowing might make a difference? Any oil in the hoses would have drained back.
In the same way I expect length and volume/bore of hoses might also effect the amount of work the pump has to do initially?

ive done alot of head scratching over block take offs, was gonna do cheapo kits and sell them on here/ebay, but didnt bother in the end as i didnt hit a design that would suit anyone and everyone, without doubling the price form £15 or so to about £25 using a very low profile 90degree swivel adapter from america with a minimum order quantity of 100...

my gripe with the kit minispares sell is that they have the hose coming straight out of the block, so will likely foul with anything in that space, or have to buy a 90 degree adaptor (which nullifies the space saving unless you get a special low profile one...groan...)

so i tried make a block which can use the std gasket, and diverts the oil flow straight out the side, like below:



this fits fine on A blocks, but the ribbing on A+ prohibits this without moving the takeoff out further, which i didnt want to do so i went upwards on the final mock up:



but again, this has limitations as it would interfere with people running the std larger alternators.

I still have lengths of alloy blocks and about 50 sets of 1/2bsp adapters to fit hoses to takeoff and blocks.

(If anyone needs any let me know btw)

Also bolt length is critical, as if you use bolts too long, they will end up intruding into the path of the no.2 bigend, youve been warned!

Rogers point about priming issues are worth noting, but most modern filters (VW, volvo for definate) have one way valves because for this reason, so if you use one of them i doubt youll have any problems.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Most modern filters have a one way valve to prevent drain back as the hydraulic tappets would rattle on start up if the valve was not there.
Graemec,
It should not be any different from the standard set up especially with regard to the above.
Regards
Dave

Thanks for link.

So im confused , is it best to use standard filter housing, remote
before pump , both or wot ? Am sure the most of people on here are running expensive engines and would be nice to no how to make them last ?

Rick

Remote filter before the oil pump removes gearbox swarf before it enters the engine/oil pump and gives full flow filtration
Remote filter connected to existing outlets does not protect the oil pump but gives full flow filtration.
Standard set up does not protect the oil pump and does not give full flow filtration.
Regards
Dave

Dont want to sound dumb dave but why if you make standard filter remote does it help with filterisation ???