In board gearchange
Turbo Mini Forums

What is the advantage of the inboard setup? Is it that a larger bore exhaust can be put in or because the gearstick is raised? Im interested in doing this how is it done if anyomne can help?

Back once again like a renegade master

Hi,mate
There are three reasons I want to do it.
1) to put the exhaust up out of the way to run the car lower with no ground clearance issues with the exhaust.
2) to put the gearchange exactly where I want it.
3) to put the engine in with a forward tilt to put the driveshafts horizontal when the car is lowered and provide extra clearance for the turbo.
Regards
Dave

All good points there Dave but surely you missed the most common one .... because it looks trick!!! LOL

If you put a tube in the bulkhead (see Slaters loverly build up in Show Us Yours) you can seal it using a boot from the end of the steering rack ... just make sure you tie it down to the selector with the lever back ..... I had a friend that did this on his hill climb car a while ago and used to complain of the boot pulling off the tube all the time .... I was generous enough to fix it for him for just the cost of a beer .......

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

I couldn't get my 2" zorst in the tunnel of my 64 and put my change indoors. It was a fucking hassle and a half. You have to have the engine really REALLY locked up. I used a 3/8 socket set UJ !!! Very nice. Seriously, mine was a hassle and bent the floor where I had welded it, I would seriously advise using the top rod as well, even though it looks horrible, it works. Under hard accelleration, I had problems getting second and this involved using a *bit more* force than usual. Bearing in mind I had shortened the stick as well DO NOT TRY AND DO THIS!!!!!! It's high sulphur steel and DOESN'T WELD GRRRR!!!!! Despite trying my hardest, it was crap. I have gone back to a smaller zorst and left it where it is. If you do go for it. Lock the engine up with as many steadies as you can. This is where the idea falls on it's arse. The weeniest movement of the engine caused my gearstick to flop around like a semi flaccid penis.

Even thinking about my gear change makes me angry!!

Bugger off, I'm getting there.

I get a bit of a rattle through the stick when trying to pull away and turn at the same time but it dosent knock it out of gear.

Best mod ive ever done to a mini i think. At first it didnt work too well but its loosened up a bit with use and now is nice and slick. You litrallymove it an inch to go from 1-2!

Bit hard to get reverse on mine so maybe not so good for an autotester but i think alot of its down to set up. Mines not adjustible i just set it up where i thought it should go and drilled the dowel holes and luckly it worked! adjustment wouldent go a-miss tho!

adjustment makes a massive amount of difference.

I changed my engine and even the different box wanted it setting up differently!

There is a trick apparently, put the box in first, the stick in 1st and connect it up. apparently thats the best way!

I have made one also gave nothin but problems! will try and sort it over winter though!!

I got a set up from Kad, it was rather expensive but seems a quality bit of kit, engines not in yet so only time will tell.

if anyones having problems with there home grown efforts is because your'e not engineering it correctly.

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

You tell 'em Carl!

I have seen this done on friends cars but never done it on my own. Only problema I have seen are binding in the joint (basically the standard joint won't do .... ) and rubbish location (no basic locating linkage .... the second bar is there for a reason in the standard set-up ... requires a tweek to work above the floor IIRC)

Carl is right .... if you think it through it should work fine

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

Does anyone have any pictures of how they mounted their shifters? I've spent about an hour searching but no joy?

I wish someone would make up a tidy aluminium cnc machined alternative with a sepherical bearing in the middle

That way i wouldnt have to run the std horrid carbunkle on display in my car

(and if anyone starts making these i want one cheap)

The DON has a alloy bracket rivetted to the edges of the tunnel, works OK but not as rigid as it could be (the floor flexes not the bracket) so a rethink is on the cards, most probably a steel bracket welded in.

Jims car has a steel "cradle" welded to the floor.

this is mine mounted.


I've never had a problem with it jumping out of gears, in the photo below you can see how close my gearstick is to my steering wheel. I love it this way, great driving position for me, IMO

Team www.sheepspeed.com Racing

What do you mean Nic?

nice setup, Jimster BTW

Back once again like a renegade master

Thanks Jim, the first picture is exactly what I was looking for, just need to get my welder back and I can crack on with my fabricating.

This is mine

A better looking solution than this:


(this is from an elise, and it uses cables, obviously the mini needs rods)

Edited by Nic on 18th Oct, 2007.

Love the way thats done Jim, is the angle of the selector box just so that the gearstick is located closer to the wheel?

I guess having the box up higher on that bracket will effect the length of the selector shaft needs to be?

Also, when people say with this kind of setup (selector box inside) means you can raise the exhaust higher into the tunnel, how is this done? Doesnt the angle at the end of the manifold determine the height the exhaust sits at? Or does having the knuckle joint mean it doesnt matter?

Soz for the questions, just one of the jobs I'll be doing to mine!

Rich

I'd never do it again. Small Mk1 tunnel is a pain to get an exhaust into as well as a rod shift, using a smaller pipe, it's totally possible though.

If you do go inside, it will be necessary to make some proper mounts for it. My floor flexed as well and I would fully 100% use the top rod as well. Even if you lock everything up, the slightest stiffness will have you swearing. It also had UJ's.

I'd also go with Jims kind of angle, rather than trying 2 UJ's. That looks like a bad idea.

Bugger off, I'm getting there.

that looks really nice jim
friends told me the most important mounts to have are the bottom back 2. i believe hes made?making his own rosejointed ones

i really like jims idea of having it up high aswell...might have to fiddle

David.

I still use two UJ's on mine, but it works really well

Team www.sheepspeed.com Racing

This is about the best pic i have of mine if it helps anyone!