Sectioned 1275 Engine Block
Turbo Mini Forums

An old STD bore block I had sectioned. It had spun a bearing and damaged the center bearing housing so not worth saving.

Poor core casting can be seen, but more interestingly there is plenty of metal around the bores. You can clearly see where Visard warns of breaking into oil ways, this being the main problem. Id expect bore flex to be strictly limited to where the bores are siameased.

Edited by Sprocket on 16th Oct, 2007.

good work, and yes one of the holes is very close to the bore wall! nice to see what we can't normaly.

Best 1/4 mile 13.2 seconds @116 mph
First 5 port miniturbo to make over 200 bhp on a carb?
First 5 port miniturbo to make over 200 bhp on Injection?

http://www.mattwoodsphotography.com

What the fooks that bemt bit of tin doing between 2&3!! or is it 3&4...

yes looks a bit weird does that!

Best 1/4 mile 13.2 seconds @116 mph
First 5 port miniturbo to make over 200 bhp on a carb?
First 5 port miniturbo to make over 200 bhp on Injection?

http://www.mattwoodsphotography.com

apparently those are used to tie in the cores when casting. They are in every block. Visard also mentions these. When i had the 74mm block bored, true to Visards word, you could see a difference in clour of metal where this had been exposed as it were. It looks like on this block it may be an issue on big overbores as i can see where the metals havent quite moulded together

Edited by Sprocket on 26th Nov, 2006.

Given thats all solid cast iron....they look pretty thick to me ???

Open deck Subaru liners are only about 5mm thick, obviously set into an alloy block.

LS1 liners can only be machined out 5thou oversize, so they are pretty damn thin too.

Is bore flex an issue with the A-series ???

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

Thanks for sharing your results with us Colin! good work!

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on that last pic, look at all that sediment/rust at the bottom of the jacket, i just hope that down there away from the combustion it doesnt hinder cooling too much.

Would an acid dip get rid of all that shit?

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Great Stuff Colin!

How about you show us the magic machine that you sectioned the block with!!!

I'm going to 'cut' the top off my current block when I'm done with it - to see exactly what is causing the overheating.
It is good seeing inside though - as Stevie said, this actually looks pretty sturdy.

those are some fascinating pictures ,thank you colin .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

As Said,
GREAT stuf Colin!
thanks!

Mmmm that is INTERESTING. i suscept those metal 'sheet' between bores, would affect the cooling around the block, by those limiting the flow of coolant.

What year is that block?

Mmmm that is INTERESTING. i suscept those metal 'sheet' between bores, would affect the cooling around the block, by those limiting the flow of coolant.

What year is that block?

good stuff colin - the old A looks very different from the inside out! - thanks

John

If Carling made Mini engines
it would probably be like this one!

great pics, thanks for sharing them!

the crud in the bottom of the water passeges is scary, i sincerely hope that wasnt running like that!

I've seen the future and tbh its Pie

Thanks for the replies people. I my self was curious to see the inside. The pics in TBASE dont depict what you can see in real life.

TD, I had the machine shop do it on their 12" band saw. I got it in with the price of some CAD/CAM. LOL, though they did curse and swear a bit I only asked for three cuts cos i kind of knew it wasnt an easy job.

As for the 'sediment' at the bottom of the coolant gallery, I dont believe this to be the case. It seems to me to be poor casting, its solid and is shiney when scratched. Its a big restriction.

Not sure on the year of the block, but its Pre WFM1024 but has the plain bottom bearing mains. Any one care to hazard a guess to the year?? OOH actualy the number should still be on it, I'll check it in a bit.

As far as I am aware, all A series blocks have those metal strips, like i said its something to do with tieing in the wax cores for casting. Visard mentions it and i read it some where else too, im sure The block i used on the 1400 has them, i wondered what they were when i changed the core plugs. Wonder if it would aid cooling any if they could be ground out at the front of the block from through the core plug holes with a die grinder???

Oh and this engine i bought a while back for something like £3.84. It realy wasnt worth it. Well maybe for the bolts and fixings, oh yeh and the almost new standard Duplex set. There was nothing right with it. Brocken rings that had deffo been run for considerable time, the crankshaft key was broken in two, thecamshaft key was also broken. The crank pulley bolt had some wierd washer behind it, the crank wash shot, ALL the bearings were doune to the backing. I suspect its been in a pond I posted the pics up a while back, i'll see if i can find them.

Edited by Sprocket on 27th Nov, 2006.

This may be bollocks, but surely those protruding bits of tin will AID cooling by giving more surface area for water to contact and transfer heat away from the block?????

well i be honest and say i dont think it matters at all. The majority of heat is in the combustion chamber, so its the underside of the dack and the head that needs the surface area. Its in these areas that steam pockets build and reduce the conduction of heat to the coolant, resulting in overheating of the combustion chamber.

Having said that and thinking while im typing, there is not contact of the deck/bore between the cylinders and fron what i have seen of melted pistons it seems to be either #2 or #3 and always across the pins, where the heat would be the highest.

There may be some theory to your bollocks Tom!!!

Engine number 12HC14AA and apparently MG Metro 1984 onwards, however, it was not an MG metro cam that cam out, but then the engine had been rebuilt.

top stuff

thanks for your time and dedication on this

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

I've seen the future and tbh its Pie

I just bunged a stant high pressure cap on my car (20psi) as it was hanging around,

The car (NA 1380 st2 head 276 ect with a 2core rad and 88 degree stat) used to run a bit over 90 on the gauge and creep up towards 100 at junctions,

now it runs at 85-90 with no sign of it going higher yet,

is anyone else running higher pressure rad caps?

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it will in the summwer thats for sure, i need a 74 thermo plus a extra rad.

good work on the block, as for bore flexing i cant see it on 1380cc bore but may be if you run to 74.7.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas