K1100 16V Turbo build...now transmission build.
Turbo Mini Forums

Thanks I take pride in my sturdy shaft. :)

After some discussion with Robert, we're both very sceptical if this box would work...especially when running any sort of power as the new input location shaft is unsupported.

Ive worked out that there is still room for the mini 1st motion gear, so the plan now is to run the 1st motion gears inside the box. I'll need to get a custom gear made up for the bike shaft to mesh with the mini gear, but it will solve alot of problems with trying to fit the shaft in the casing built up as it will now be 2" shorter.

Edited by matty on 28th Jan, 2012.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

i was thinking about that matt , one way it may be ok is if he has a bog off big double roller, like the mini mainshaft bearing, in his end case ... and perhaps one at the ther end of that shaft in the centre plate too.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

that box is one of David Rosthantals creations isnt it? I know he has a paunchant for sticking in taper roller bearings in the mini box, so could be!

Joe - Ive read that David Rosenthals box is being fitted with taper rollers but this box appears to be built by someone unknown.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Welllllllll...the plot thickens!

Ive dismantled the other shaft ready to redesign it, but it turns out on this one I have a gear that is machined as part of the shaft. Which means im going to have to use it and modify it.



Things that need to be changed:

1. where the bearing is sitting it needs spline machining into it, to drive a gear that meshes with the 1st motion gear. This may not be possible as the spline would have to go hard up to the fixed gear, and im not sure if its possible to machine. If it is possible I could buy another bike gearset and modify my 1st motion shaft and fit a bike gear onto it. Another option would be to cut the gear off the shaft and have that splined the same as the rest of the shaft. Then I could get a new shaft made.

2. The other end of the shaft needs to be extended to run the reverse gear. I could either get a spline machined externally then make up a splined sleeve that has a spline machined internally then run the bearing on the sleeve. Or use it as it is, and rethink the drive for reverse gear...

Hmmmm....lots of thinking to do.

Edited by matty on 28th Jan, 2012.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

or tig a gear onto the shaft ,or go back to external gears ?

Edited by robert on 29th Jan, 2012.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Robert - I dropped into the machinist today, and they said they could cut a shaft with the gear in place. So the plan now is to go back to the original idea of 1st motion gears on the outside of the box and run a support bearing on the drop housing like the idler gear. Im going to design the layshaft so it will accept a bike gear on the input end, then get the mini 1st motion splines machined into another bike gear. Looking at the ratios of the splined sliding dog gears, one has 29 teeth the other 30, so they about as close as I can get to 1:1.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Difficulty rating
1-easy
2-medium
3-hard
4-chuck norris
5-mattys gearbox build

So you definitely won't be commissioning any of these then Matt?

In the 13's at last!.. Just

Haha not at the moment!

But its like anything new, when there is nothing to work from it takes time. But once I have one of everything made replicating should be easy. Im keeping drawings/measurements of everything im making or changing though, should it work well it'll make replicating easier in the future.

The main problem is trying to work things out (and keep costs down as much as possible). Changing one part effects the rest of the box.

Im at the stage where I can get the box welded now, as I have taken all the measurement I need which I can't do once its welded. Then it'll be a case of selecting the bearings im going to use, then get the box line bored to suit.

When both shafts are in place, the rest is relatively simple (famous last words). Looks like I'll need to modify the selector forks aswell now though. lol

Edited by matty on 31st Jan, 2012.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Keep at it. It'll be worth it, unless of course it explodes with the first tickle of tourque, but we won't go there eh.

I'm sure you can make it work.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

This makes my idea of adapting a BMW box for inline operation in the A35 a very simple matter -must get on with it soon.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

I'll have to do some calcs. After looking at the bike gears again, im not sure if there is enough metal left on the bores to respline as the bike gears look to have a very similar size spline...so might be back to plan A and have some custom ones made.

Plates ready to weld in. I just need to make the gasket face now.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Lovely stuff there.

You need to grind a generous 45 deg prep on those plates before you even consider welding anything. Neat job, but with them butted like that you'll get very little penetration.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

No you need to do the plate and the casing really. Done properly you shouldn't need to weld on the inside.
2 min I will do a sketch - black is casing, red is new plate. Prep allows a root run which will give penetration to the inside. Then capping runs to build up to the surface.

Attachments:

4.3kb

Edited by Tom Fenton on 2nd Feb, 2012.

I agree with Tom, you should be able todo this your self, I'd make the root face around 3mm, and go in with about 120 amps, which should give you good root penertation. Then bang the amps of the the next run, then finally big amps again for the capping runs.

Team www.sheepspeed.com Racing

Way above me... but hats of to you matty!

My build thread: http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=454802

Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/85313398@N02/

Root.... snigger!

Anyone watch Sherlock on the BBC? When he studies someone Sherlock picks up clues from their clothing etc. except it didn't work on Irene Addler. When I try to figure out wtf you're doing Matty, it's like that! lol



Keep going Matty my mind'll catch up one day ... may be, lol.

Cheers Tom, I'll have a word with my welder tomorrow and see what he'd prefer me to do.

I paid a visit to the machinist today, and he said he can't machine the bores...which I can't beieve with the machines he's got! Probably just doesn't want to do it I guess. I think ive found a plan B though, just abit further away. This company.

http://www.vintage-engine.net/

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi