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Home > Technical Chat > Fitting dual wideband 02 sensors

PhilR

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I'm planning to put the sensor right out of the exhaust flow - I think I can lose 300 degrees with the sensor a few cm further out, so that the sensor tip is behind a small hole in the exhaust wall.

Watching the SLC Free in-car for a while should give a good enough idea of whether the temperatures are under control. I may also hook up a multimeter to the heater to one of the heater transistor legs and monitor the heater duty-cycle. This should give an idea of how close I am to the ideal sensor temperature.

Alan, any plans to output AFR and temperature (and maybe heater duty please) digitally through the unused pins? Or do you know of anyone else looking to modify the source code? I also plan to move the boards into my ECU casing. I assume there's no problem removing the displays to give me more room?


Rod S

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On 15th Oct, 2014 PhilR said:
Alan, any plans to output AFR and temperature (and maybe heater duty please) digitally through the unused pins? Or do you know of anyone else looking to modify the source code? I also plan to move the boards into my ECU casing. I assume there's no problem removing the displays to give me more room?

For the first question I asked it on his forum and the answer was no, not enough flash on the microcontroller with the current display.
It might be worth posting there as he has obviously only just registered here so may not visit regularly.
Your questions are probably more specific than mine was.

I've a few other thoughts that I'll add later.

EDIT - bit added.

Edited by Rod S on 15th Oct, 2014.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


PhilR

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I saw your question on his forum, but also saw a lack of replies to any of the handful of posts.

He's already taken the time to sign up and write a detailed post. It would be good if we can encourage his input on here from time to time and keep everything in one place. I would expect (/hope) he will check back at least a few times for responses. His current website promotion seems to suggest he's very interested in what the forums have to say. I notice he's quite active on diyefi.org, so even if we can't catch him here, then maybe that would better place to catch him.

Edited by PhilR on 15th Oct, 2014.


Rod S

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On 15th Oct, 2014 PhilR said:
....but also saw a lack of replies to any of the handful of posts.

Been there, seen that, done that....
It's catch22, minimal response = few people bothering to post.
And the discussion about his products ends up on other forums instead of where it should be.
The he spots it on other forums (or is tipped off) and then joins in - for a while.

I've used email in the past if you have direct technical questions.

Again, not trying to be negative - the products are good - but the support is generally poor compared to say Jean and his products.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


PhilR

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I see you're point. I think Alan himself that has the most control over his forum succeeding and I'm sure it will become good in time. His business looks young and although the support might not be there yet, he must be doing something right.

Did you use the controller in the end? Do you have any worries about it's performance?


Rod S

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On 15th Oct, 2014 PhilR said:
Did you use the controller in the end? Do you have any worries about it's performance?

No, I got as far as building it (as per the previously mentioned TM thread) and exchanging a few emails with Alan about what I thought were the issues on the PCB layout (and obviously the capacitors and spacers) but never made up the connector cables.

I instead perfected my SLC-OEM setup with a lot of new firmware from Jean for his IOx.
If you haven't come across it, see here.
http://forum.jbperf.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1360
I think what can be done with the SLC-OEMs is the ultimate (and Alan has now said he could produce a 4.9 variant) but, because of your interest and the comments from lots of others, I now have the SLC Free sitting next to me to finish the cables and do a back to back test vs the SLC OEM.

Give me a couple of days.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


PhilR

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I read your SLC Free thread, just couldn't tell whether you'd carried on after the problems. Interesting IOx stuff.

Because there are two heat sources, the temperature (as passed over I2C) is pinned at 750 C and only shows a change when you EGT goes over 750, and if you watch the heat output duty cycle you only know about how far below 750 your EGT is.

Both measurements are half of the same picture. For testing, having either should be much better than having no indication of temperature. Later on, I may try an idea I have to monitor both on the SLC Free, but initially, I'll just measure the heater and watch the Temperature on the screen (Shame about no I2C possibility for the SLC Free)

Has anyone tried the PLX controllers with health monitoring ?


Rod S

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On 15th Oct, 2014 toalan said:
That means when the sensor is cold or disconnected, SLC Free B firmware will show 740C and SLC Free C firmware will show 680C. That is the way to tell which firmware you have in case you forgot what you ordered.

A good tip, maybe put it on your website ?
However I wasn't thinking about anyone who had forgotten what they had ordered....
My concern was the instructions said whether to install a resistor or not and implied that was the only difference.
If you don't want to put simple labels on the microcontroller chip as to which firmware you have installed can't you just add an extra line in the build instructions where it talks about the resistor to the effect that fitting or not the resistor doesn't change the microcotrontroller's settings between 4.2 and 4.9 ?
As it's worded at the moment it could be easily misconstrued that all you had to do is fit/omit the resistor to swap between LSUs.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


toalan

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Rod that information I put in the manual, there is just too much technical information about SLC Free to plaster onto my website. You got the first revision of the kit, so perhaps back then my manual was not updated with that information.

Back to the part about measuring exhaust pressure, has anyone built one and successfully tested their own backpressure monitor? If so what are the parts and fabrication procedure?


toalan

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On 15th Oct, 2014 PhilR said:
I'm planning to put the sensor right out of the exhaust flow - I think I can lose 300 degrees with the sensor a few cm further out, so that the sensor tip is behind a small hole in the exhaust wall.

Watching the SLC Free in-car for a while should give a good enough idea of whether the temperatures are under control. I may also hook up a multimeter to the heater to one of the heater transistor legs and monitor the heater duty-cycle. This should give an idea of how close I am to the ideal sensor temperature.

Alan, any plans to output AFR and temperature (and maybe heater duty please) digitally through the unused pins? Or do you know of anyone else looking to modify the source code? I also plan to move the boards into my ECU casing. I assume there's no problem removing the displays to give me more room?


What I would do is hook up a voltmeter to the gate of the heater mosfet, 5v=100% duty cycle, 0v=0% duty cycle, everything in between is linear with duty cycle. Voltmeters are slow and will integrate the duty cycle waveform and display it as a 0-5v volt signal.


PhilR

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I'm just collecting ideas and parts right now. I'd hope to attempt a first version within three months.

My DVM show duty-cycle, but interesting to learn you can do it without this feature.

Roughly what temperature will the heater start to ramp down from 100%? Is it linear or PID controlled?


Rod S

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On 15th Oct, 2014 toalan said:
Back to the part about measuring exhaust pressure, has anyone built one and successfully tested their own backpressure monitor? If so what are the parts and fabrication procedure?

Not on the exhaust yet but, as a result of this discussion, I will add it next time the engine is out.

I have got pressure monitoring/logging around the intake piping and, as far as I'm concerned, the only difference will be protecting the sensors from temperature.

The ambient temperature ones are hooked up with standard 4mm bore silicone tubing.

As per the photo (Phil) and simulation (Paul) earlier in the thread, a relatively short length of stainless tube (much shorter than I was expecting) drops the temperature as there will be no overall flow (there will be some pulsing backwards and forwards at the exhaust tapping end as gas is compressible but shouldn't be enough to transfer heat).

I will try 4mm OD, 0.5 wall stainless tube initially as the sensors take 4mm ID silicon tubing.

Paul, that is the answer to your earlier question, I think 4mm OD (3mm ID) should be adequate for the sample chambers and get rid of some of the heat transfer I currently have.

4mm isn't quite such a common size as 6mm but 4mm compression to 1/8" male threaded fittings are readily available which is ideal as my current drilling in my sample chambers are 1/8" (for the current 6mm tube). 1/8" (BSP, BSPT, or NPT) is pretty much industry standard for the small stuff. A plain exhaust tube might be a bit thin for a reliable thread but you could add a small threaded boss (like a wideband "bung") or what I would do is just run a small weld around the fitting once screwed in.

After dealing with the heat, the 4mm silicone tubing will just run to a set of common Freescale sensors.

The ones I currently use are MPX4250AP, that's the same as the MAP sensor in the Megasquirts and is 2.5Bar(a) so good for 1.5 Bar gauge.
That should be enough for the exhaust after a turbo but would need one with a higher range (Freescale make them in higher pressures but I haven't ordered any yet) for pre-turbo.

For the rest of the stuff, first I have them mounted on a PCB (all the attached photos BTW are during build, not the finished items).


Then they are connected by a custom cable to one of Jeans IOx-OEMs


The conditioning circuits for the Freescale sensors are hidden from view under the IOX daughterboard and Sparkfun USB board but are just the MS2/3 circuits.
In my finished setup it is all integrated with your SLC-OEMs as per the above photo, and then integrated with the MS2 ECU for engine control/management/logging connected by CAN but, what a lot of people don't realise, is the IOx can run completely stand-alone,


Connected to TunerStudio (free version as well as paid) for data collection/logging. In stand-alone I connect to the PC by USB (as per photo) whereas normally it talks to the MS2 by CAN and the MS2 talks to the PC but standalone is perfectly feasible and works fine.

http://forum.jbperf.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=999


Not sure if that really answers your question as what we do tends to be generic, built at the time for what we specifically want.
But what I've shown hopefully shows what can be done.

EDIT - bit added.

Edited by Rod S on 16th Oct, 2014.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


PhilR

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How long until you plumb it in and get some data?

I don't want spend much time and money on this especially if you're closer to getting some results. I'm struggling to find higher rated pressure sensors for a decent price, so I'm thinking of using oil pressure senders. I've seen some that are 80psi, 1/8 npt, so I'm thinking of tapping some stainless tube (12mm OD, 8mm ID), weld that to the manifold, then screw the sensors in directly...


Rod S

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Oil/fuel pressure sensors often have synthetic rubber diaphragms so may not stand the heat at the distance you propose.

The Freescale MPX5700AP, same profile/pinout as the 2.5 bar sensor is rated at 7Bara so up to 6Bar in the exhaust (with the discussed heat protection).
£11.33 (+VAT) from Farnell so I'll order a couple shortly.
More for interest than persuing this quickly.
I have too many other projects on the go at the moment and although there maybe a small question mark over my sample chambers, not enough to get excited about until the engine next comes out.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


toalan

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My experience is that oil and fuel pressure sensors have very poor ability to sense low pressures, above maybe 15 PSI then they start to become accurate.


toalan

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On 16th Oct, 2014 PhilR said:
I'm just collecting ideas and parts right now. I'd hope to attempt a first version within three months.

My DVM show duty-cycle, but interesting to learn you can do it without this feature.

Roughly what temperature will the heater start to ramp down from 100%? Is it linear or PID controlled?


The temperature is controlled with a PID controller, so duty cycle vs temperature can not be easily described.


Rod S

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I now have a couple of the Freescale 7bar(a) sensors sitting next to me (Farnell are quick), 4mm x 1/8 fittings ordered (eBay China so about 2-3 weeks but they were way cheaper than my usual UK source) and I'm waiting to hear back from my UK source whether they have 4mm x 0.5 wall tube, currently they are only showing 4mm x 1mm wall which might be a bit restrictive.
And I have plenty of 4mm silicone tube.
And obviously I have all the electronics to do the measurements.

This will be a tight squeeze to fit - I currently still only have the original Metro turbo cast exhaust manifold so space will be tight - although that will obviously be good as it's the worst case scenario for pressure, but this won't happen until the engine is back out which won't be until the back end of this year, really I'm just collecting parts too to save time later.

Just to be clear though, all I will be doing is measuring the pressure. I will also re-commission the EGT thermocouples (assuming the damaged cable one still works) which I haven't bothered with ever since Paul and I found no correlation between EGT and AFR, but there is simply no room to put 4.9 LSUs into the Metro manifold (I do actually have two now) and, even if I could, my SLC-OEMs only work with 4.2s and Alan says it will be a while before there is a 4.9 version.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Rod S

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Some further thoughts re. temperatures up a pressure sampling tube.

I think Phil and Paul have show it's sod all in a static environment but I'm still not convinced in a dynamic environment.

The exhaust gas is compressible so, although the totallity of the tube is a dead end at the sensor, if there are pulses in the exhaust gas, the tube will see flow backwards and forwards, greatest at the manifold end tapering to nothing at the sensor. That continually reversing flow could "carry" the heat further up the tube.

I have found a source of both 4mm OD x 1mm wall and 4mm x 0.5mm wall. Thermal conduction will be less in the thinner wall (assuming the heat is being disipated to the surrounding air) but I'm also thinking that the pulses could transmit heat further up the larger bore thus cancelling out the benefit of the thinner wall.

It may come down to practicalities, I suspect the thinner stuff will kink when trying to form it into a coil (even with a proper pipe bender) and I can stick a couple of thermistors on either and measure the temperature (if the thin stuff will bend OK) but any thoughts in advance ?

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Paul S

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I could do a transient simulation, but some of us are actually working to get our cars on the road *smiley*

The results would be fairly predictable though.

If you are running 1 barg boost, then the average pressure in the exhaust manifold could be as high as 3 barg, varying by 1 bar each side of that.

So with a pressure range of 2 barg to 4 barg, then the air will compress to around half it's volume through the cycle.

Just make the tube twice as long as you originally thought.

Now, where that brake master cylinder I was looking for *smiley*

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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Picking up this thread again, I got my 4mm x1 and 4mm x 0.5 and surprisingly the thin walled stuff didn't kink



I have yet to figure out how to get the coil beyond 270 degrees without machining up my own former...

Then, today the fittings arrived from China



It looks like 4mm fittings (with an 1/8" male thread) should be viable and compatible with all previous 6mm stuff.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


PhilR

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I've had a go at this over the last couple of days too. I started with a pipe bender like yours but also found it limiting. I then tried bending it around any old former. This was bent around a socket extension (about 1/2" diameter), pipe is 3.3mm , 0.5mm wall; no signs of kinking or crushing:



I was trying to do away with the compression fittings to save room as I need space for the o2 sensors too. As per the photo I wanted to make an interference fit in a sensor boss (3.3mm tube in 2.25mm hole) but I'm not happy with it. Your compression fittings look like a better idea, so will likely get some of them, and 4mm tube.

The photo show the post turbo boss, but for the pre turbo ones I'm looking at 'De-cat sensor extenders' which are longer and some have restrictor holes. I've also seen that AEM sell medium length bosses for pre turbo installation; they appear to have groves cut into the body, to create cooling fins.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/products/sen...-o2-sensor-bung

With regards to the pressure sensors, Rod, I think I'll get the same ones as you. In my head, I thought they were more expensive with a lower pressure rating, but from what you and Jean have written, this seem like the best option

Edited by PhilR on 25th Oct, 2014.

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