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Home > Technical Chat > Fitting dual wideband 02 sensors | |||||||
696 Posts Member #: 10034 Post Whore Birmingham |
15th Oct, 2014 at 10:10:20am
I'm planning to put the sensor right out of the exhaust flow - I think I can lose 300 degrees with the sensor a few cm further out, so that the sensor tip is behind a small hole in the exhaust wall.
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
15th Oct, 2014 at 11:11:54am
On 15th Oct, 2014 PhilR said:
Alan, any plans to output AFR and temperature (and maybe heater duty please) digitally through the unused pins? Or do you know of anyone else looking to modify the source code? I also plan to move the boards into my ECU casing. I assume there's no problem removing the displays to give me more room? For the first question I asked it on his forum and the answer was no, not enough flash on the microcontroller with the current display. It might be worth posting there as he has obviously only just registered here so may not visit regularly. Your questions are probably more specific than mine was. I've a few other thoughts that I'll add later. EDIT - bit added. Edited by Rod S on 15th Oct, 2014. Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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696 Posts Member #: 10034 Post Whore Birmingham |
15th Oct, 2014 at 12:06:15pm
I saw your question on his forum, but also saw a lack of replies to any of the handful of posts.
Edited by PhilR on 15th Oct, 2014. |
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
15th Oct, 2014 at 12:45:10pm
On 15th Oct, 2014 PhilR said:
....but also saw a lack of replies to any of the handful of posts. Been there, seen that, done that.... It's catch22, minimal response = few people bothering to post. And the discussion about his products ends up on other forums instead of where it should be. The he spots it on other forums (or is tipped off) and then joins in - for a while. I've used email in the past if you have direct technical questions. Again, not trying to be negative - the products are good - but the support is generally poor compared to say Jean and his products. Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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696 Posts Member #: 10034 Post Whore Birmingham |
15th Oct, 2014 at 01:35:48pm
I see you're point. I think Alan himself that has the most control over his forum succeeding and I'm sure it will become good in time. His business looks young and although the support might not be there yet, he must be doing something right.
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
15th Oct, 2014 at 02:04:09pm
On 15th Oct, 2014 PhilR said:
Did you use the controller in the end? Do you have any worries about it's performance? No, I got as far as building it (as per the previously mentioned TM thread) and exchanging a few emails with Alan about what I thought were the issues on the PCB layout (and obviously the capacitors and spacers) but never made up the connector cables. I instead perfected my SLC-OEM setup with a lot of new firmware from Jean for his IOx. If you haven't come across it, see here. http://forum.jbperf.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1360 I think what can be done with the SLC-OEMs is the ultimate (and Alan has now said he could produce a 4.9 variant) but, because of your interest and the comments from lots of others, I now have the SLC Free sitting next to me to finish the cables and do a back to back test vs the SLC OEM. Give me a couple of days. Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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696 Posts Member #: 10034 Post Whore Birmingham |
15th Oct, 2014 at 04:21:27pm
I read your SLC Free thread, just couldn't tell whether you'd carried on after the problems. Interesting IOx stuff.
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
15th Oct, 2014 at 06:26:14pm
On 15th Oct, 2014 toalan said:
That means when the sensor is cold or disconnected, SLC Free B firmware will show 740C and SLC Free C firmware will show 680C. That is the way to tell which firmware you have in case you forgot what you ordered. A good tip, maybe put it on your website ? However I wasn't thinking about anyone who had forgotten what they had ordered.... My concern was the instructions said whether to install a resistor or not and implied that was the only difference. If you don't want to put simple labels on the microcontroller chip as to which firmware you have installed can't you just add an extra line in the build instructions where it talks about the resistor to the effect that fitting or not the resistor doesn't change the microcotrontroller's settings between 4.2 and 4.9 ? As it's worded at the moment it could be easily misconstrued that all you had to do is fit/omit the resistor to swap between LSUs. Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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8 Posts Member #: 10981 Junior Member |
15th Oct, 2014 at 09:57:25pm
Rod that information I put in the manual, there is just too much technical information about SLC Free to plaster onto my website. You got the first revision of the kit, so perhaps back then my manual was not updated with that information.
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8 Posts Member #: 10981 Junior Member |
16th Oct, 2014 at 02:29:38am
On 15th Oct, 2014 PhilR said:
I'm planning to put the sensor right out of the exhaust flow - I think I can lose 300 degrees with the sensor a few cm further out, so that the sensor tip is behind a small hole in the exhaust wall. Watching the SLC Free in-car for a while should give a good enough idea of whether the temperatures are under control. I may also hook up a multimeter to the heater to one of the heater transistor legs and monitor the heater duty-cycle. This should give an idea of how close I am to the ideal sensor temperature. Alan, any plans to output AFR and temperature (and maybe heater duty please) digitally through the unused pins? Or do you know of anyone else looking to modify the source code? I also plan to move the boards into my ECU casing. I assume there's no problem removing the displays to give me more room? What I would do is hook up a voltmeter to the gate of the heater mosfet, 5v=100% duty cycle, 0v=0% duty cycle, everything in between is linear with duty cycle. Voltmeters are slow and will integrate the duty cycle waveform and display it as a 0-5v volt signal. |
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696 Posts Member #: 10034 Post Whore Birmingham |
16th Oct, 2014 at 09:15:10am
I'm just collecting ideas and parts right now. I'd hope to attempt a first version within three months.
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
16th Oct, 2014 at 01:30:45pm
On 15th Oct, 2014 toalan said:
Back to the part about measuring exhaust pressure, has anyone built one and successfully tested their own backpressure monitor? If so what are the parts and fabrication procedure? Not on the exhaust yet but, as a result of this discussion, I will add it next time the engine is out. I have got pressure monitoring/logging around the intake piping and, as far as I'm concerned, the only difference will be protecting the sensors from temperature. The ambient temperature ones are hooked up with standard 4mm bore silicone tubing. As per the photo (Phil) and simulation (Paul) earlier in the thread, a relatively short length of stainless tube (much shorter than I was expecting) drops the temperature as there will be no overall flow (there will be some pulsing backwards and forwards at the exhaust tapping end as gas is compressible but shouldn't be enough to transfer heat). I will try 4mm OD, 0.5 wall stainless tube initially as the sensors take 4mm ID silicon tubing. Paul, that is the answer to your earlier question, I think 4mm OD (3mm ID) should be adequate for the sample chambers and get rid of some of the heat transfer I currently have. 4mm isn't quite such a common size as 6mm but 4mm compression to 1/8" male threaded fittings are readily available which is ideal as my current drilling in my sample chambers are 1/8" (for the current 6mm tube). 1/8" (BSP, BSPT, or NPT) is pretty much industry standard for the small stuff. A plain exhaust tube might be a bit thin for a reliable thread but you could add a small threaded boss (like a wideband "bung") or what I would do is just run a small weld around the fitting once screwed in. After dealing with the heat, the 4mm silicone tubing will just run to a set of common Freescale sensors. The ones I currently use are MPX4250AP, that's the same as the MAP sensor in the Megasquirts and is 2.5Bar(a) so good for 1.5 Bar gauge. That should be enough for the exhaust after a turbo but would need one with a higher range (Freescale make them in higher pressures but I haven't ordered any yet) for pre-turbo. For the rest of the stuff, first I have them mounted on a PCB (all the attached photos BTW are during build, not the finished items). Then they are connected by a custom cable to one of Jeans IOx-OEMs The conditioning circuits for the Freescale sensors are hidden from view under the IOX daughterboard and Sparkfun USB board but are just the MS2/3 circuits. In my finished setup it is all integrated with your SLC-OEMs as per the above photo, and then integrated with the MS2 ECU for engine control/management/logging connected by CAN but, what a lot of people don't realise, is the IOx can run completely stand-alone, Connected to TunerStudio (free version as well as paid) for data collection/logging. In stand-alone I connect to the PC by USB (as per photo) whereas normally it talks to the MS2 by CAN and the MS2 talks to the PC but standalone is perfectly feasible and works fine. http://forum.jbperf.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=999 Not sure if that really answers your question as what we do tends to be generic, built at the time for what we specifically want. But what I've shown hopefully shows what can be done. EDIT - bit added. Edited by Rod S on 16th Oct, 2014. Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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696 Posts Member #: 10034 Post Whore Birmingham |
16th Oct, 2014 at 02:49:53pm
How long until you plumb it in and get some data?
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
16th Oct, 2014 at 03:29:29pm
Oil/fuel pressure sensors often have synthetic rubber diaphragms so may not stand the heat at the distance you propose.
Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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8 Posts Member #: 10981 Junior Member |
17th Oct, 2014 at 02:59:33am
My experience is that oil and fuel pressure sensors have very poor ability to sense low pressures, above maybe 15 PSI then they start to become accurate. |
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8 Posts Member #: 10981 Junior Member |
17th Oct, 2014 at 03:01:48am
On 16th Oct, 2014 PhilR said:
I'm just collecting ideas and parts right now. I'd hope to attempt a first version within three months. My DVM show duty-cycle, but interesting to learn you can do it without this feature. Roughly what temperature will the heater start to ramp down from 100%? Is it linear or PID controlled? The temperature is controlled with a PID controller, so duty cycle vs temperature can not be easily described. |
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
17th Oct, 2014 at 11:52:12am
I now have a couple of the Freescale 7bar(a) sensors sitting next to me (Farnell are quick), 4mm x 1/8 fittings ordered (eBay China so about 2-3 weeks but they were way cheaper than my usual UK source) and I'm waiting to hear back from my UK source whether they have 4mm x 0.5 wall tube, currently they are only showing 4mm x 1mm wall which might be a bit restrictive.
Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
19th Oct, 2014 at 08:35:49am
Some further thoughts re. temperatures up a pressure sampling tube.
Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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8604 Posts Member #: 573 Formerly Axel Podland |
19th Oct, 2014 at 09:00:52am
I could do a transient simulation, but some of us are actually working to get our cars on the road
Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
25th Oct, 2014 at 06:11:56pm
Picking up this thread again, I got my 4mm x1 and 4mm x 0.5 and surprisingly the thin walled stuff didn't kink
Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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696 Posts Member #: 10034 Post Whore Birmingham |
25th Oct, 2014 at 08:07:59pm
I've had a go at this over the last couple of days too. I started with a pipe bender like yours but also found it limiting. I then tried bending it around any old former. This was bent around a socket extension (about 1/2" diameter), pipe is 3.3mm , 0.5mm wall; no signs of kinking or crushing:
Edited by PhilR on 25th Oct, 2014. |
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