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Home > 998cc > 998 Ti - Stage 2 - Now the Build - Jan 2012

Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

The buttons end up being around 4.5mm thick (between the end of the pin and the bore).

This is a well tried and tested solution. I'm not aware of any reliability issues.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


wil_h

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9258 Posts
Member #: 123
Post Whore

Betwix Harrogate and York

My buttons look like mushrooms and fit inside the pin. The stem is at least 10mm long. there is no way they can fall out. Not had a failure yet.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:

the design shows a distinct lack of imagination,
talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol

On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry.


Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

Not much progress on this recently for two reasons: firstly the cold weather and secondly a reluctant flywheel.

I wanted the clutch spring, gearbox and transfer case off my last remanining donor 998 engine but the sodding flywheel would not budge. It's the first time I've not been able to get one off with the puller alone. I tried blowlamp and welding torch to get some heat into the centre hub, but no joy.

I really hate damaging any parts beyond use, but this was the last resort. The Plasma cutter won in the end:



Buggered the crank, for which I have a spare, but finally got the bits I need to move this project on :)

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Joe C

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12307 Posts
Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

Nice!

so was it fretted on then?

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

Looks like it. Very odd pattern inside the hub. The surface of the crank was black, but that could have been the heat.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Brett

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Doncaster, South Yorkshire

at least you thought on and removed the springs first *wink* and there wasnt an ahhh bugger thought after torching it

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

Instagram @jdm_brett


Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

The spring is on the critical path. I need to get the RTS built and off to MED with the crank for balancing before I can start assembling the short engine.

Hopefully get the RTS done today, but need some washers.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


gr4h4m

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Chester

What a pisser.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!


Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

RTS built:



Short cut method that does not involve removing the centre hub or the pressure plate from the cover.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

It's gone together well, but I have a couple of issues with washer use:



I don't usually put washers under the CMS bolts. I also told someone a few weeks ago not to use washers with rod bolts :( However these ARP rod bolts came with washers and they have a smaller dia. head than standard raising the compressive stresses under the head if I did not use the washers.

Edited by Paul S on 16th Mar, 2012.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


John

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10020 Posts
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Mongo

Barnsley, South Flatcapshire

Whats your reasoning behing not wanting to use the washers Paul?

Nice shiny rods btw.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.


apbellamy

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16540 Posts
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King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner

Rotherham, South Yorkshire

I've always put hardened washes on my main straps

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


Rod S

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5988 Posts
Member #: 2024
Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

Presumably your CMS bolts are also one size AF down on their heads from the standard bolts ???

If you look at the underside of the (standard) large headed bolts, they will usually be recessed next to the shank putting (a) a nice stress reducer on the corner, and (b) moving the load diameter outwards thus reducing local stresses near the hole.

With a small headed bolt, a hardened washer is the best compromise (but still nowhere near as good as a properly designed bolt).

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

They are the same size AF. This is the underside of a std bolt and the CMS bolt:



Aoocording to Sprox, the underside of the standard bolt is special cut to create a locking effect.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland


On 16th Mar, 2012 John said:
Whats your reasoning behing not wanting to use the washers Paul?

Nice shiny rods btw.


Well BMC designed the engine without..... why start adding them?

Rods are nice aren't they :)

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


apbellamy

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16540 Posts
Member #: 4241
King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner

Rotherham, South Yorkshire

BMC didn't fit a strap or a turbo either *wink*

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


Rod S

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5988 Posts
Member #: 2024
Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

On 16th Mar, 2012 Paul S said:
They are the same size AF. This is the underside of a std bolt and the CMS bolt:



Aoocording to Sprox, the underside of the standard bolt is special cut to create a locking effect.



Better than the ones I was supplied with (and threw away) then (I got small heads, no radius, and the wrong tensile rating.....).

Which is the one on the right and is that a recess or a raised land near the shank ???
The one on the left (whichever it is) is best IMO (more load area and a clear radiussed recess to reduce stress raisers), the right hand one isn't quite so obvious.

The other consideration is the surface hardness of the standard (cast) caps compared to a (presumably mild steel) strap. The cast caps will be much less likely to distort under point loadings than the strap as cast steel/iron has a much higher Brinell value than mild steel.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

The CMS bolt is on the right, standard on left. It's a raised land.

Good point about the loadings and hardness. However, I've drilled the strap to the minimum size that will clear the bolt to get the highest loading area possible.

I have some 7/16" ARP washers, so I may fit them anyway.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


minivan63

114 Posts
Member #: 9645
Advanced Member

South Wales

I asked about the washers with the arp bolts - I got a set to replace the bolts with lock tabs. I think the instructions said to use them.

I'm wondering about the mains bolts now - mine are the old type that use the lock tabs - I wanted to omit the tabs as they looked well squashed and use hardened washers instead. Do you torque the cms bolts up any tighter than normal because there not the self locking type?


Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

I've put washers on the mains now, principally because, as Rod pointed out, the steel strap is actually softer than the cast iron. Interestingly the strap showed signs of deformation from the shoulder on the bolt just from torquing it up once.

I've gone for the usual torque on the mains bolts, 85Nm and 45ftlb on the rod bolts as instructed by ARP.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

Cover on:


Cam sensor tucked in neatly:

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


minivan63

114 Posts
Member #: 9645
Advanced Member

South Wales

Looking good!

I'm increasingly tempted to go with your method for the cam sensor - only drawback is having to buy the alloy duplex set as I guess it won't work with steel!


Paul S

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Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

Actually, it might work with the steel "rotaslide" type duplex. There is enough clearance at the back to put a single longer srew that will be the only ferrous thing that the sensor sees.

On this I've managed to get a lock nut on both sides of the alloy cover, but a single one on the outside would be enough, like I've done on the 1293.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


minivan63

114 Posts
Member #: 9645
Advanced Member

South Wales

Do you think it would work with one of these instead if the alloy one:

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=...id=37852&title=

I started modding a distributor, but am not overly happy with it and plus I'd like a bit more space for either a rad or intercooler up front.


Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

That's the one. The end of the screws is at least 5mm back from the edge of the chain, so if you put in a single screw a few mm longer, thread the plate and use a single locknut on the outside, then the sensor should work.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Home > 998cc > 998 Ti - Stage 2 - Now the Build - Jan 2012
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