My stage 2, 998 A+
Turbo Mini Forums

3rd tops at 140km/h
I think 4th is 4200 at 140km/h
I have the std 998 diff.

std 998 A+, g295, MD266, RHF4, 109hp @0.8bar/5400rpm

That is odd as I had a 998 that was taking 4,8K in standart trim !

The clock might have been crap though ...

Anyway, I'll soon find out as the engine is in my car right now (about to hit the street for the last 2 years ...)

Rusty by nature

My 998 will top out at about 88-90mph using a GPS, thats on a A series with a standard remote gearbox and diff.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Top speed is totally dependant on the diff ratio and Max RPM.

Stacks of calculators on the net, google it.

"So wat we gonna do tonight Brain?"
"Same thing we do evernight Pinky!"
"Try to take over the world!"

yep I think the old boxes like mine are running something like a 3.7

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Edited by alpa on 9th Sep, 2010.

std 998 A+, g295, MD266, RHF4, 109hp @0.8bar/5400rpm

You are right Alpa.

The best exemple being Mini Marcos wich should be going pretty faster than any identical engined mini.

Rusty by nature

Very true guys, I should of phrased it slightly differently. Your theoretical max speed is dependant on diff ratio and max RPM.

"So wat we gonna do tonight Brain?"
"Same thing we do evernight Pinky!"
"Try to take over the world!"

Just to make a record:

As I've already wrote in a head gasket related thread I went to the track with my 998 Turbo last Saturday. Did 100km with 0.8bar (12psi) of boost, RPM between 3500 and 6500, mostly in 2nd and 3rd. Worked as a charm, absolutely no problems, just drive and let it cool down every 20 minutes.

I used the modern composite head gasket, the one wil has blown twice.
Air temperature after I/C was about 55C full throttle.

Driving speed was around 110km/h in average with 160km/h in the straight line (4000rpm in 4th I think), to let it cool down a bit.

The front Metro rad (the true two-layer interleaved one) works perfectly, with fan switched on temperature stays at 80C just after the run, during the run it stays as usually when I drive it in the street.

Front wheels spin in 2nd with yokohama A032-R 165/70X10. But I must say I have middle range suspension springs, not cones.

15w50 full synth Motul bike racing oil, supermarket RON98 fuel.

Drilled std drums and grooved (by me) std discs with Fiesta calipers work very well, no fading with a std brake 1 year old liquid.

Edited by alpa on 29th Oct, 2010.

std 998 A+, g295, MD266, RHF4, 109hp @0.8bar/5400rpm

Where did you ride ?
Dijon-Prenois ?

And what about it, did you have good fun ?

Rusty by nature

I went to a track near Grenoble, Champier. They greatly improved it, it has a quite complex 3km shape.
Of course it was fun, especially for my 14year old daughter, her first time.

std 998 A+, g295, MD266, RHF4, 109hp @0.8bar/5400rpm

Hi,
Accidentally landed in this forum, first time in two last years.

My Mini still runs well, I use it frequently on short and x10km distances: shopping, skying.
It made more than 15.000km since stage 2.
Still the same spark plugs which remain perfect chocolate color, oil - 15w50 bike full synthetic.

I'm going to update picture locations: done.

Here is my old (2012) web page that explains many aspects of my engine management:
http://apavlov.pagesperso-orange.fr/mini/mini.html
And especially this one:
http://apavlov.pagesperso-orange.fr/mini/e...ine_stage2.html
with
http://apavlov.pagesperso-orange.fr/mini/e...management.html

Edited by alpa on 19th Sep, 2016.

std 998 A+, g295, MD266, RHF4, 109hp @0.8bar/5400rpm

Welded a new SS exhaust, the old RC40 was dead rusted.
Just one silencer (absorbtive and reflective in the same time) but very efficient, the car is quite.

std 998 A+, g295, MD266, RHF4, 109hp @0.8bar/5400rpm

Whats the idea/hows that exhaust work?

I always try new ideas in my every exhaust.
Here the idea is to split the flow in two, go through two long tubes that contain perforated tubes inside (supposed to remove high frequencies). Perforations create turbulences -> better heat exchange -> long tubes are heat exchangers to cool gases -> less energy -> less noise.
Perforations reduce diameter but there are 2 tubes so less charge loss. Tubes are 45mm diameter / 1.5mm.



Then both lines pass through perforated sections with fiber before being mixed. One line is delayed.

The input 2 (annotated on the next picture) is the short path. It passes through a perforated section (fiber around) and finishes in the output chamber.
Input 2 is the long path, a delay line. It enters the box but first goes through perforated section / fiber to another chamber. Then from this chamber it goes through a simple tube to the box output. In the output chamber its section is perforated so it's mixes with the output of the input 1.





I like race-kind sound but from my experience I learned that turbos remove too much high frequencies energy so it's very hard to get a NA-kind race sound on a turbo engine. So the sound is quite deep with clean but not too noisy pulses.

std 998 A+, g295, MD266, RHF4, 109hp @0.8bar/5400rpm