Sc12 Supercharged Small Bore - Teeth in the oil
Turbo Mini Forums

Well cleaned the case up this afternoon. Rebuild next.....

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

nice and clean!

Did you bung in the dishwasher when the missus wasn't looking

i have a dish washer in the shed win win clean parts and less whingeing form the missus

after trashing two boxes i have gones straight altho not installed im now wishing i went dog.. o well its bought might as well go to use hell for the price tag i might treat it nicer.

build looks good so far nice and clean good stuff what diff ratio? another thing im wishing i hadn't gone for 3.7 lol id love to swap it for a 3.1 now lol o well

Edited by Turbo This.. on 19th Nov, 2012.

Well I'm thinking of staying std gears, with a taller FD maybe a 3.1 or a 2.95.
I drove a mates mini that had a really long 3rd and it was great fun.

The cleaning was a big plastic box filled with de-greaser, a long soak and a scrub. They a blast with the pressure washer and a clean up with scotch pad and more de-greaser.

I think the previous owner might have had is stripped as it had been rebuilt before, it has inserts in the idler bearing and the bearings are like new.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Ive got a 2.9 in mine and its great 55 in 1st and 85 in 2nd if u want it too

13.95 1/4 mile on a 2.95 fd. Carnt be that hard to beat!

is that on a std gear set or straight cut?

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Well price everything left had a bit of a shock so its starting to come down to this:

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

hi mate youl be surprised how much is in there

give em hell

Well as the minispares sale is on I have bitten the bullet an ordered all of the gearbox bits for the rebuild.

I was looking at the spend I might put it up here as a reference for budget beginners like myself so you have an idea of the rabbit hole....

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

^ i would appreciate this!

great build

great build

Ok a couple of pointers for all us beginners, it really is important to plan these builds and understand what you are wanting from the engine and box. So to answer the age old questions:

What do you want from the engine:
I'm limited here with my supercharger so if its never going to see 120 at the fly, and I wont turn the boost up so this also helps in decided on the bottom end. I have found Paul S's chart on power V engine mods to be useful.

I have stuck with my original CR as it has worked well since 2007. 8.7:1 I was tempted to go higher but decided to stick with what I know works.
I have also decided on a standard bottom end and rods, but will use ARP bolts. (They seem cheap for the 998)
I always wanted a 1071, I cant afford to build that so went for as close as I could a 1060. This made finding pistons a pain, I settled on a set of Graham Russell +80.

Cam has been a pain to find, decided I wanted a wide LSA of about 112 as that is what Stuart Gurr has been using since way back when. Everything you read about SC cars states a wide LSA works well, the yank V8's run 114) It doesn't appear Stuart sells them anymore so decided with help from JoeC and the bloke who builds my kit to go for a RE13T again from Graham Russell available from Keith Calver.


Here is my expenditure so far.

ENGINE
£340 - PAID Block Rebore, skimmed, Crank regrind, All Bearings, Head pressure tested and skimmed.
£220 - PAID Pistons +80 (Came with a guarantee from GR if I melted them at 10:1 and 12 PSI he would replace them FOC!)
£65 - PAID for our very own Fast Carl to machine a bit off the tops of the piston and make some buttons. Would like to occasionally rev to 7K
£200 - Estimated Cam and oil pump. Should just be able to squeeze the timing gear too if going with off set keys.
£100 - Estimated Engine bits. SO gaskets, some nuts and bolts, water pump, core plugs

HEAD
I already have a ported 295 so will reuse.

GEARBOX
£100 - PAID I stripped a couple of spares to find them in crap condition, as seen in this post. I managed to get a good 2nd hand remote box for £100. I stripped this and it wasn't too bad an looked like it had been recently rebuilt. Thanks to Colin for popping over and giving it the once over.
I decided on a standard box 1 due to the cost but 2 I'm not sure I wanted any more noise even if its not as bad as people make out. My main goal is a nice gear change and I will be easy on it, well mostly.... I will try and be tight on the tolerances hopefully this will help.

£326 - PAID with 15% minspares discount from the Xmas promotion! Thats for the big main bearings, Idler bearing, competition shaft, 4 pin diff, central pickup, lock tabs, gaskets, diff bearings. I'm reusing the bulk rings and the small bearings as they are like new.

So not a cheap do, for a very mild spec.... Lets hope it holds together longer that getting it off the drive.

I have also purchased Des Hamils 4 pot short engine book. seems very good reading...

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

oh and I gave the flywheel and clutch already. I will use a minispares ultralite and light back plate. So far I have always used the std AP pre verto clutch and never had any slip. So will stick with it.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

oh and I gave the flywheel and clutch already. I will use a minispares ultralite and light back plate. So far I have always used the std AP pre verto clutch and never had any slip. So will stick with it.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Ok today I have given the garage a good clean out and hoover!

Moved and chucked some junk.... getting ready for the big build, which I would like done for Easter so I can run the engine on the Snowdon scatter...

So after all that messing about I built my first 4 pin diff... all turns over smooth.

Next is the gearbox build and then the engine....

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Well I chucked the gears back in the box today. wasn't too bad but..

The laygear has too much play and the thrust washers are NLA for the pre A+ stuff. So looks like I might need to get some steel shim foil and back the trust washer that I have. The layshaft had some pickup on it I wonder if this was why as the box had been rebuild by the previous owner.

The oil plugs had be guessing for a bit they must be original? so I drilled and tapped them so I could pull them out.



The pinion looks goosed, but would like to know what everyone thinks.









The vertical lines normally found on the top of the gears have bee worn off and there as per the pics worn down a bit

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

if your putting in SC gears I wouldnt worry overly about the shimming unless the gaps huge,

yep those oil blanking plugs are std from pre a+, you can just use the later cup style ones to replace them, bit of sealer on them and stake the holes to stop them coming adrift.

I dont like the look of that pinion either, I'd go with it for a std lump... but not for this.

I have a perfect 3.1:1 if required.

Minimole, you have a PM.

Joe, I'm using a std gears so and the gap is at 0.20mm so a bit on the large size. I'm thinking of getting some steel shim foil and making the gap a bit tighter...

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

ah yeah, bit of shim an some scissors then!

Is there any difference between A and A+ washers? Are they not interchangable? IE 'A+' thrusts on 'A'

They have different size holes from what I have researched. A+ are larger to deal with the three step shaft.

I have ordered some steel shim foil and will try and knock up a shim for the rear of the gear see how that does.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

ok, some updates....

Made a shim for the thrust washer, a 0.003" shim gave me .0025" clearance. so on the tight side, but everything moves nice a smooth.




I put the diff back together with a new 3.1 that I bought from minimole23. Everything torqued up and diff preload set and I checked that everything will still go into gear.

TBH the mechanisms are still a bit stiff, it must be the remote style of change, I might play with the spring tension in the detent balls used on the selector rods, but I'm guessing it may just result in the car jumping out of gear.







I ran a file over the block and tapped the oil plug holes.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!