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robert

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uranus

dug these out of the bin of wonders...are they viable ?


Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Rod S

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If I've read the number right from the photo (285-829) they are discontinued and are proximity switches rather than hall effect, their current replacement (249-2237) has a maximum frequency of only 800 Hz.

So I would say ...No..

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Rod S

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On 20th Feb, 2010 Rob H said:
I even dusted off my old copy of "Operational Amplifiers with Linear Integrated Circuits" and promptly realised why I haven't touched it in over 10 years.


I have the same feeling occasionally, except I would probably say 20 years.....

I'll have a read of that other link on the print/etch paper tomorrow.

EDIT - just thought, if you used a diode to backfeed the input vs the supply rail (which I assume you used at 5V as the reference voltage) surely that would explain an ~0.7V difference ???

Edited by Rod S on 20th Feb, 2010.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


robert

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uranus

thanks rod ,worth a try !

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Rod S

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Actually, looking back at Paul's calculations he gets 430Hz with a 12 tooth wheel so it's within their range if they are the same specification as the replacement items that RS lists.

It's only me who is thinking of much higher frequencies.

So might be worth a try - I have to admit I don't know what the difference is between a proximity switch (which is what RS describe them as) and a Hall switch, and the datasheet on RS doesn't help....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Rod S

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Just ordered my parts from Farnell.

Enough to do a 4 channel system with maximum from the rear and maximum or average from the front.

I've gone about it in a different way, I'm hoping to be able to fit the ABS trigger wheels I mentioned earlier to both the pot joints and inside the rear hubs, they are 42 teeth so will have a much higher resolution at low speeds anyway and found some miniature Hall switches which are optimised for the finer teeth on an ABS wheel. They are not in a nice neat package but just a plain chip designed for the automotive industry to install in their own packages so I'll have to improvise with some epoxy but a lot cheaper and a lot smaller than Paul's choice.

With the higher resolution wheels I may not limit the voltage range to low speeds only but I've still ordered some OpAmps to use as voltage protection on the CPU and give me the option of high or low speed, might even make it switchable....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Paul S

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I've just tested my Hall switches against the trigger wheel in the lathe. They are not as gap tolerant as I would like.

I tested it axially and radially. I used the LED setup from the cam sensor test.

Once the gap goes above 2mm, you start to lose stability.

At the optimum gap setting of 1.5mm, there is about 4mm tolerance from side to side.

So radially on the wheel, you could move the sensor 4mm each way from the centre point on a 4mm thick wheel. This dropped to 3mm each way at the 2mm gap. By 2.5mm gap you could see the instability.

Axially, on the 12 tooth wheel with the large teeth, I had 8mm of sideways movement of the sensor at 1mm gap, dropping to 7mm at 1.5mm gap and just 2mm at the 2mm gap. The optimum setting is with the sensor centreline 3mm in from the outer wheel edge.

I also check out pot joint movement on a couple of gearboxes. On a recently rebuild box with about 2000 miles, there was negligable movement. But on an old box with 80,000 miles it was all over the place.

I'm going to mount the driveshaft sensor axially for ease of mounting as there does not seem any advantage in mounting it radially.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Paul S

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On 21st Feb, 2010 Rod S said:
Just ordered my parts from Farnell.

Enough to do a 4 channel system with maximum from the rear and maximum or average from the front.

I've gone about it in a different way, I'm hoping to be able to fit the ABS trigger wheels I mentioned earlier to both the pot joints and inside the rear hubs, they are 42 teeth so will have a much higher resolution at low speeds anyway and found some miniature Hall switches which are optimised for the finer teeth on an ABS wheel. They are not in a nice neat package but just a plain chip designed for the automotive industry to install in their own packages so I'll have to improvise with some epoxy but a lot cheaper and a lot smaller than Paul's choice.

With the higher resolution wheels I may not limit the voltage range to low speeds only but I've still ordered some OpAmps to use as voltage protection on the CPU and give me the option of high or low speed, might even make it switchable....


Can you share the circuit for the rear wheels Rod? I can from the datasheet see how you get the Vout from the circuit for the maximum configuration. It's the resistors and capacitors after that point that I'm not sure of.

I'm happy with a single sensor on the front wheels with the ATB LSD, but I can see that other than going in a straight line the single rear wheel system will have it's limitations.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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On 21st Feb, 2010 Paul S said:
Can you share the circuit for the rear wheels Rod? I can from the datasheet see how you get the Vout from the circuit for the maximum configuration. It's the resistors and capacitors after that point that I'm not sure of.

I haven't drawn it out yet but basically on the circuit TL/H/7942-35 on the datasheet, first the two outputs are from pin 5 on the 14 pin chip, not pin 4 as they show because they are showing the 8 pin example.... you add the 10K resistor to ground (bottom left of diagram) and the bit in the bottom right that just represents the output voltage, feed it to the MS through a 1k resistor with a 220nF capacitor to ground before the resistor and a 10nF one to ground after the resistor. If you look at Patrick's figure 8 you will see that replicates the output from pin 5 on a single 14 pin LM2917.
The 1k resistor is to limit current to the MS2 CPU and the 10k to make sure the LM2917 output is true zero when stationary without drawing too much current. The capacitors are for decoupling and ideally the 220nF one would be mounted near the LM2917 chip and the 10nF one close to the MS2 CPU, ie, if there is room, put the 1k resistor and 10nF capacitor inside the MS2 box. Hope that makes sense :)

As I'll be adding a couple of extra bits (the OpAmps as voltage protection if I chose to run this at low speeds only) I won't draw it out until I have proven the voltage protection works.

On 21st Feb, 2010 Paul S said:
I'm happy with a single sensor on the front wheels with the ATB LSD, but I can see that other than going in a straight line the single rear wheel system will have it's limitations.
Yes, was it Wil or Ben who mentioned it in the earlier thread about the hillclimber lifting an inside rear wheel - I think even on a road car with lowered and overdamped suspension that could happen hence making it worth measuring both rear wheels. As for the fronts, although my second gearbox will have the Quaiffe ATB, my initial gearbox has an open (x-pin) diff so I will try the pot joints and an electronic average. The play worries me though, I haven't measured it accurately but there is at least 1mm on mine at the moment and the sensors I've ordered quote a maximum read gap of 2.75mm. However, as they are meant for ABS applications on CV joints they have internal gain control to compensate for eccentric runout, ie, if the joint starts to "whirl".

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Paul S

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I've drawn up a 3 wheel system as attached. As it would be very easy to extend in the future, I may stay with the 2 wheel for now.


Attachments:

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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Your diodes from pin 11 to ground are the wrong way around !!!!

Plus you've used the symbol for a zenner but that would just be me being picky :) :) :)

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Paul S

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Thanks Rod. I did say that I do not know what I'm doing *happy*

I've updated the drawing above.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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Looks fine now, even the right symbol *happy*

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Paul S

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On 21st Feb, 2010 Rod S said:
The play worries me though, I haven't measured it accurately but there is at least 1mm on mine at the moment and the sensors I've ordered quote a maximum read gap of 2.75mm. However, as they are meant for ABS applications on CV joints they have internal gain control to compensate for eccentric runout, ie, if the joint starts to "whirl".


I'm using the LSD which has very well supported output shafts. Also new diff bearings and new bushes in the side plates which should hold things tight.

The two output shaft adaptors for the LSD to the HS couplings are OK, but one is much tighter on the splines than the other, so that's the one I'll weld the trigger wheel to.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


robert

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uranus

paul , on the tvr im using a sensor mounted on the hub and a series of magnets on double sided tape on the inside of the wheel rim,this has worked for the speedo for ages ,might work ?
you could just use pieces of metal instead of magnets ,youd just need 12 instead of my 4 ?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Paul S

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If it's good enough for Heath Robinson, then it's good enough for me *happy* *happy* *happy*

I'll stick with the trigger wheels and hall sensors now that I have paid for them.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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Well my bits arrived today,


The sensors (Hall switches) are really small so should be no problem to mount and encapsulate them in a bit of epoxy.

The gamble on the ABS rings was slightly less successful - I had assumed that anything VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda would have bigger hubs and/or drive joints than a Mini pot joint and that I would need to machine up a nylon sleeve to enlarge the joints to press these on. In fact they are about 2mm smaller than my pot joints (and I'm not sure if mine are the "large" or the "small") so I'll have to machine a little bit off.
On one hand that will be a real pain as others have already said how hard they are but has the advantage that the overall diameter won't go up by much - the downpipe from the turbo is very close to the right hand one so the smaller the package is, the better.

Just need to assemble all the elctronics on the breadboard and check I can voltage limit the outputs the way I intend.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Brett

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excellent most my parts are on the way too :)

Edited by Brett on 23rd Feb, 2010.

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

Instagram @jdm_brett


Rod S

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On 23rd Feb, 2010 Brett said:
excellent most my parts are on the way too :)

The more the better Brett:)


Mine, now assembled ready for testing on my function generator (if I can figure out how to work it....)



Four channels with external voltage regulation and overvoltage protection on the outputs....

That is only if it works of course *happy*

Testing tommorow.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


998turbomini25

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hello
I've been reading this thread with the up most interest, as i do like to dabble with electronics from time to time,

However i must say so far this seems a little above my capabilities but i am learning and i'm very impressed at how quickly this is all progressing and i will definitely be keeping a close eye on this thread

I hope it all works as expected

Luke


Rod S

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Well I did a quick test of machining the Pot joint for the ABS ring and much to my surprise, I can actually machine it in my cheap Clarke lathe



Also, perhaps not so much to my surprise, Leyland/Rover couldn't machine it right in the first place....

I saw, even with a rotating center in the arse end of it, that the OD was slightly eccentric....

Clocked it and 5 thou out... Sorry, old units, my DTI is antique.. about 0.12mm

So I need to find out if it's the internal splines that are out or the outside before I machine any more........

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Brett

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On 23rd Feb, 2010 Rod S said:
On 23rd Feb, 2010 Brett said:
excellent most my parts are on the way too :)

The more the better Brett:)


yes definitely i think an upgrade to megasquirt is in order though*happy*

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

Instagram @jdm_brett


robert

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uranus

rod isnt there a chance that the pot will move up and down a bit and throw the signal off ,is it a lets see what happens thing ?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Rod S

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On 23rd Feb, 2010 robert said:
rod isnt there a chance that the pot will move up and down a bit and throw the signal off ,is it a lets see what happens thing ?


Yes, my main concern with them was using the pot joints at the front.

If I can get these ABS rings to fit, the little sensors I've bought are specifically designed to work with them and are sensitive up to 2.75mm

But, better still, they have inbuilt AGC so will ignore a varying gap or "whirl".

Well that's what the datasheet says :)

Plus I'll be running at very high frequency (42 teeth) so any errors on the D/A conversion should be minimised.

But, as you say, let's see what happens *happy*

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


robert

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uranus

cool , i suppose making sure the bearing that locates the pot is tight would help .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

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