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Jason G

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Braintree, Essex

Looks like its been welded along a side, then missed one, then welded another side. Or, its been artifically cooled as its been welded.


On 27th Dec, 2009 apbellamy said:
So why all the different colours in the weld in the pic above??

On 19th Jan, 2010 wil_h said:
I would start the furthest place from the finish.


On 24th Mar, 2012 apbellamy said:
I feel all special knowing that I've given your mum my wood.


Been neglecting Turbo'd 'A' series..............


madcatminis

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Dudley, West mids

The difference in colour is all down to torch angle. If you fillet weld a round tube as you go around the weld is not getting argon shielded and discolours. The discolouration is fine as long as it's not oxidised. Titanium discolours like a bitch if you don't get it right. Anything other than silver or a light straw colour on titanium in aerospace is a failure. At work I use a 12 millimetre wide ceramic for everything from 0.21m up to 4mm. Also your travel speed will effect the colour of a weld. Slow is okay but too fast and the weld will appear grey. Grey means that is on the boarder line to oxidising.


Jimster
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455bhp per ton
12 sec 1/4 mile road legal mini

Sunny Bridgend, South Wales

I've got my hands on an old AC/DC tig, so expect some dodgy photo's from me.

I'm trying to sort out some pure argon gas, at the moment I'm looking at 29p per day to rent the bottle and around £100 for a refill (inc surcharge) is this what you guys pay?

Team www.sheepspeed.com Racing

On 15th May, 2009 TurboDave said:

I think the welsh one has it right!


1st to provide running proof
of turbo twinkie in a car and first to
run a 1/4 in one!!

Is your data backed up?? directbackup.net one extra month free for all Turbo minis members, PM me for detials


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

Good Lad!

From BOC i think mine is 22p a day and about 45 quid a refill,

is your price for a BIG Jar?

Edited by Joe C on 5th Jan, 2010.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Paul S

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Formerly Axel

Podland

I pay around £150 a year for rental for two Y size bottles, plus the gas.

I'm waiting for Roderick *hehe!*

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

On 5th Jan, 2010 Paul S said:

I'm waiting for Roderick *hehe!*


As above, the only difference being that I rent cylinders, not bottles *happy**happy*

The "Y" size is much more cost effective if you use a fair bit, rental and refills are only about 30% more expensive but they are twice the capacity of the "X" size. So there is a break point between rental costs and gas costs depending on useage.

It appears BOC are now offering 5 year leases again (which they used to do but stopped it) at lower prices per year than the normal yearly rental so I'll probably swap to that as well next time I need an exchange cylinder :)

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


sturgeo

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Northants

On 5th Jan, 2010 Rod S said:

The "Y" size is much more cost effective if you use a fair bit


I'm hoping he's going to teach me to weld so that'll use a fair bit of gas!


t3gav

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Gavin@minispares.com

kent

Reminds me of this http://v8tvshow.com/forum/index.php/topic,2016.msg3488.html


Jackman

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Westhoughton, Bolton

What do people think to this?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TIG-WELDER-PLASMA-CU...=item25586685e7

Im after a plasma cutter and tig welder for some simple stuff. Will this do the job?

Manchester Minis


Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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Rotherham South Yorkshire

When I was looking to buy my TIG off ebay, I looked for people in the sellers feedback who had previously bought the same thing, and sent about half a dozen of them a message, explaining that I was looking to buy one, and asking if their machine was OK, did it work, what did they think of it etc.
Only 2 of them replied, but from that I got 2 fairly positive answers, so took the plunge and bought mine.

That one is DC so you can do mild and stainless, but no aluminium.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Jason G

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Braintree, Essex

I know alot of TIGs enable you to arc weld too, has any one actually ever used this feature?

On 19th Jan, 2010 wil_h said:
I would start the furthest place from the finish.


On 24th Mar, 2012 apbellamy said:
I feel all special knowing that I've given your mum my wood.


Been neglecting Turbo'd 'A' series..............


Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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Rotherham South Yorkshire

Mine supposedly does, came with some arc welding pliers too, I haven't tried though.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


TurboDave16V
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***16***

SouthPark, Colorado

They arc weld beutifully.... Really stable. It's like the difference in going from C02 to mix in you MIG welder.

At least that's what arc welding on my miller dynasty is like, I can't comment on the cheap chinese units. *smiley*

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



Jackman

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Westhoughton, Bolton

Cheers. I have messaged a few people to see what they think of them. Also i will mainly be using it for the plasma cutter but i thought a tig could be useful at the same time.

Manchester Minis


Paul S

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Formerly Axel

Podland

Tips from welding up my manifold:

1. Relax - forget that someone told you it will be difficult.

2. Let the workpieces warm up, this can take some time.

3. Don't apply the filler rod until both sides of the weld are molten.

4. Make sure everything is meticulously clean - clean with a stainless wire brush and give it a wipe with acetone.

5. Start with lowish amps, see if it will create the molten pools, if not, wind the amps up a bit, then try again. Keep winding up until you can start laying the bead. After a few inches, start to wind the amps down again, otherwise it will blow holes.

6. When joining thick and thin metal together, bias the torch towards the thick stuff.

7. Keep breaking the tungsten back to a fresh tip, particularly if it has touched.

8. Make sure your filler rods are clean, mine had sellotape residue on where they had been packaged :$

Edited by Paul S on 19th May, 2011.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

exactly what Paul said!


the only thing I can add is try to sit down and rest your arms on somthing if possible, then you'll be less likly to dip the tungsten,

if you do dip the tungsten its pointless continuing, as you WILL need to take it out and tak it bak to fresh.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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Rotherham South Yorkshire

I'd agree. I clean my alu rods off with scotchbrite before using them.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


matty

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Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

I thought I'd keep this in the same post.

I had my first play with the TIG yesterday. And after about half an hour of burning tungstens out and one shield I gave up thinking it was impossible. I then had another look at it with a clear head to find the torch and clamp were the wrong way round (earth clamp should be + and torch - )
I also noticed the gas hose to the torch was kinked, so no gas!!

This was my 3rd attemp at running a bead, and was about as good as it got tbh. This was on 1.5mm stainless with a foot pedal.



What does it mean when you get a very dark rough weld? Is it too much heat?

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

I'd say yes too hot,

also if your not back purging the oxygen from the back can make it go dark on the top


On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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TM legend.

Rotherham South Yorkshire

Looks a lot of current. How much were you using there?


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Paul S

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8604 Posts
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Formerly Axel

Podland

I don't know what welder you are using, but I found with mine that the footpedal overode the dial setting for amps. Therefore it was easy to use too much amps/heat with the foot pedal.

My advice would be to get used to the welder with fix amps to start with i.e. no foot pedal. That will do the job just fine on stainless.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


matty

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Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

Im using an r tech. I think the base current was set to 85 and i switched pulse off as i was using the pedal. The pedal was about 2/3s down for the run so im guessing thats about 50amps? i tried it without the pedal but found as soon as you let go of the button the heat would just go and you'd have to start the pool again. With the pedal i found there was more control. What kind of base current would you suggest for that thickness?

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


stevieturbo

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Northern Ireland




On 27th Oct, 2011 matty said:
Im using an r tech. I think the base current was set to 85 and i switched pulse off as i was using the pedal. The pedal was about 2/3s down for the run so im guessing thats about 50amps? i tried it without the pedal but found as soon as you let go of the button the heat would just go and you'd have to start the pool again. With the pedal i found there was more control. What kind of base current would you suggest for that thickness?


When the pedal is connected, the rotary dial on the pedal controls current. Not the one on the machine.

So whatever the dial is set to, is maximum pedal.

Although for steel or stainless, pedal isnt really needed.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


Jason G

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Braintree, Essex

Stevie, you say pedal isn't really required for stainless or mild, why is this? Any hint or tips welcome :) May inprove my ally welding!

On 19th Jan, 2010 wil_h said:
I would start the furthest place from the finish.


On 24th Mar, 2012 apbellamy said:
I feel all special knowing that I've given your mum my wood.


Been neglecting Turbo'd 'A' series..............


Grahamxx

54 Posts
Member #: 8588
Advanced Member

Yeovil

Here are some examples I did using a pulse setup on a tig welder - with no filler rod.
Top 2 pics with purged argon


Bottom 2 with no purged argon

Graham

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