Seemingly obvious stuff / tips that not everyone seems to know...
Turbo Mini Forums

Did you crack your head on it?

i cant remember where i read this, but if your worried about shagging a screw/setscrew head, stick a bob of valve grinding paste on the tip of the screw driver, and it can help it grip

it does seem to help

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

bit of a common sense one, when putting discs/flanges back on, makes sure the hole in the cv for the spilt pin doesnt line up with the studs, makes inserting/removing the pin alot easier


something else ive figures out whilst tryng to undo driveshaft nuts single handed is...

)when the car is jacked up, and the relevant wheel off)

for the nearside nut, put your socket/breaker bar on it, and rest its end on the floor pointing to the back of the car, then get in and start the car up, then gently ease the clutch out in reverse, and you can crack the nut off

for the offside, same deal, just 1st gear (presuming theyre both lht)

i wouldnt recommend doing it unless youre really in aa spot, and you have no one to stand on the brakes.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Just put a crow bar or breaker bar between two of the wheel studs and the floor. It locks the hub and the nut comes straight of.

I'd have visions of flying breaker bars doing it your way Joe.

agreed, i wouldnt resort to it lightly, but its got me out of a pinch once or twice, just ease the clutch out until it cracks the tension off, then do the rest by hand

I have visions of (and experienced) bent wheel stud using them to stop the flange spinning

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

I have a much easer way BUY a
ningersoll rand 1/2 inch Air gun, get big socket and befour you can get the thing on the nut it will jump off in fear lol

even easier, get your man servant to take it to a garage to do?

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Na he's crap with directions sure haven't let him out of the house in 14 years

When electrics go reaaly weird on you.. it is a grounding problem untill proven otherwise.


When hesitating to buy the seemingly hidiously expensive tool you need for a certain job ( and you can beg borrow or steal one) ..take deep breath and buy..


My 15 quid Stahlwille hex deep open ring spanner has saved many a brake line from being shagged.

oh a 70CM breaker bar is a godsend too.


The fact that you have check something befor you started up does not mean it is actually correct.. or stays put.

That sir, is not rust, it is the progressive mass reduction system

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/

edit.. double post

Edited by Sir Yun on 2nd Aug, 2009.

That sir, is not rust, it is the progressive mass reduction system

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/

beware, i've had studs fail due to this.

on the vented disks i jsut jam a screwdriver in the vents so it hits the caliper.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

When fitting a rear subframe fit the floor mounts first, and then the heal board mounts, as it seems to make it easier to line up.

www.miniman.com.au

"""LazyGoodForNothingSmartArseKnowItAllBackYardMiniMechanic"""

You don't have to take the head off to remove the push rods with standard rockers.

Just slacken off the adjusters and slide the rockers to one side against the spring. Works well for DIY engine in situ cam changes lol.

This would only work on a small bore or genuine early cooper lump though wouldnt it? if you pull the cam on a 1275 wouldn't the followers drop into the box? Unless you can hold them up with some sort of magnetic arrangement??

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

use those cheap telescopic magnets from the pound stalls to hold the followers up. stolen from TD

You're right, forgot to mention only on motors with chest covers :$

But will still work for removing just the pushrods.

see my comment and it applies to all engines

Massive post excavation coming up here…

I went ahead and removed my engine by splitting the ball joints this time. What a royal pain! The twin hammer trick wouldn't work on either side, so had to get the splitter out, which took a lot before they finally released. Then I remembered that I should have jacked it up and put a steel block in place of the rebound rubber under the arm, so pissed about with more time doing that...
I dunno really, I just prefer to remove the rad, and push to either side, to pop the pots, leaving my mini on its wheels, fully mobile, than looking all sorry for itself with the hubs hanging out at all angles...

I have to pull my pot joined lump out tomorrow. I'm going to drop the bump stops and replace with a 5/16 nf nut to hold the top arm up while I spilt the top bj. Then with a long bit of round tube with !/2 the end removed say 1 inch along .. tap the inner race off the drive shaft. reef the bonnet off after drawing around the hinge with a texta so it kinda lines up on refit. carb and exhaust to stay on, pull the top slam panel out { it's a clubbie so I can :) }

start about 9 am beer in hand by 10am ..

1977 Leyland mini Sunshine -- moleseted -- Named " Ray" becoming a 7 port efi slowly
1971 Nota Fang 145 bhp 5 port fun @ 450 kg
1969 Austin 1800 ute, 1800S running gear, tip rat and hardware store runner