K-series conversion
Turbo Mini Forums

Yeah with the base plate and the oil pump the end float will be huge. You have to fit the jackshaft pulley to measure the real end float.

So if I'm understanding you correctly, you removed the stock end plate, fitted the triangular steel plate directly to the block and then machined the aluminium plate with a recess that houses the triangular plate and allow an oil path ?

nope the triange needs to be spaced out by the same amount as the thickness of the std seel plate, then the cam will be in the same place.

strictly speaking the cam dosent need to go exactly in the same place as your not going to be running followers, but should you ever want to drop a dizzy in.... you want it in the right place.

So if I'm understanding you correctly, you removed the stock end plate, fitted the triangular steel plate directly to the block and then machined the aluminium plate with a recess that houses the triangular plate and allow an oil path ?[/quote]

I did away with the stock end plate, I mounted my modified triangle inside my fabricated end cover deep enough to allow the correct endfloat taking in to consideration when measuring for depth protrusion of the cam from the block (cam pushed touching oil pump)the thickness lost by the end plate, thickness off the thrust plate (triangle) and gaskets used.

Without checking my notes I believe the area I bored was something in the region of 5 / 5.5 mm deep, triangle was something like 2.33 mm and I used .5mm gasket sheeting and I aimed midway on the tolerances given in the Haynes book of jokes. But you would need to fit your oil pump to your block, install your cam and measure yours specifically as due to variations in machining sizes yours may be different entirely.

You could make a spacer the same profile and thickness as the backplate to retain factory endfloat then machine your oil seal/cover to sit over/around this.
There are numerous ways to achieve the manufacture of these, some no better than others.

Shane

Just plagiarise what sprocket did on the force racing setup. Works just fine as the alloy is hard anodised, but even if it wasn't, there is enough oil going around to stop it being an issue. Remember there is no negligable thrust load on the cam - even less if not running a dizzy, and that the K head cams themselves run on bores machined straight into the head casting, so steel against alloy is proved - so long as you do have a film of oil in there of course!

Edited by TurboDave16V on 9th Sep, 2017.

So just a bit of an update... this week managed to get the block from the machinist and did a dry assembly. Something which I need to think of is that from the piston highest point to block deck I have around 0.95mm of clearance (piston at TDC). The compression ratio as it is should be 8.1:1. My question right now is whether to skim a bit more off the deck to raise the CR to 9:1.

I have read some threads on here and it seems that 250hp - 280hp is not impossible. Also there are mixed opinions on turbo versions. I've read about the GT2056 and GT1752.

Any thoughts chaps ?

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Pistons + Forged Rods

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Block assembly

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Block assembly

What is the planned boost? Seems the gt2056 is the way for 200+hp and high revs.

I don't really have a fixed number planned, but I got the forged rods and forged pistons along with ARP bearing studs exactly for the reason to withstand the required quantity of boost to reach up the hp target.

The boost quantuty gas to be determibed versus the CR. And I'm in a struggle whether to go for 8:1 and considerable boost or 9:1 and conservative boost.

By the way, I've never mentioned the shell here but this is the progress up till now. Also, just got some lightweight goodies to complement the engine

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Edited by Barrieri on 2nd Dec, 2017.

The front end is off. I will now wait for arc angels to send me the carbon fibre one

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There's no need to go as low on compression ratio as you would with an iron 5port head. The K heads are a lot more knock resistant, due to the chamber design and being ally.

Phil.

WWW.TURBO-MINI.COM

Thanks Phil,

I will be decking the block a bit to schieve around 9:1 CR.

Chaps I was wondering on what flywheel I would be using for my build. I've seen several combinations from several suppliers however it seems like I'm favoring the ones supplied by MED, although that from Swiftune also caught my eye.

The real question however is whether to go for the "ultralight" or the "featherlight/X-lite". To be honest I've never experienced any of the light flywheels except the standard BMC one. Do you think that despite its advantage of reducing the moment of inertia, it would be of real use in hillclimbs/tracks (keeping in mind the engine is turbocharged).

The featherlite/X-lite flywheel has the disadvantage of the incorporated ring gear, so I don't know how this affects reliability. Also I'm a bit worried that with the featherlite/X-lite+paddle clutch I can kiss goodbye the idea of maybe driving the car on the roads ?

Any experiences ?

Edited by Barrieri on 9th Dec, 2017.

Ditch the pre verto.

Most of us on here use a verto RTS.

Search RTS on here, there is a few guides. It's pretty simple.

I'm using a MED lightenned flywheel etc with a 998 and 1275 spring its lovely on the pedal and doesn't eat the thrusts like a strong pre-verto.

Edited by jonny f on 9th Dec, 2017.

When you say "verto" I believe you're referring to the spring type clutches, right ?

I'll have a read on RTS.

Yes fitted from 1990 onward.

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=437563

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=546067

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=444733

Just a small update. Bottom plate done.

Edit: Needs a bit of trimming now.

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Edited by Barrieri on 14th Dec, 2017.