My ever lasting project
Turbo Mini Forums

Thats pretty much it, when you lower it so far the ball joint gets over strained at itr normal angle, these help it sit back to its normal position.
The hubs are on the KAD site, have a ganders :) although they dont list the spacer on the site it was only when I saw them at IMM they said they had them.

David.

Man this is awesome i have to Do pretty much What you have due to Rust looking at yours has given me the kick in the arse to keep going with my own project so much needs Doing It is a Bit daunting...are you a fabricator

Edited by stumpypower75 on 26th Aug, 2014.

Bit confused by some of your post.... But thanks

Although it would help if I actually did any work! I've just got back from work and just cant be bothered to do anything. I didnt even do anything over my 4 day weekend.
Few weekends back I attempted fitting the windows to do the doors, I had already go the doors sitting in the shell reasonably (albeit a bit of trimming required) so, I fit the new seals in the doors, which were terrible to fit. Then I go to fit the windows to the door and it would appear either the frame or the windows are infact the wrong shape, assuming the frame here!
So manipulating the frame to fit the perspex into the seal correctly. done.
Go to fit the door to the car, it hung on the hinge well... go to put the door to and where I've has to manipulate the frame (bearing in mind its fiberglass) its now not sitting anywhere near correctly.
So... I think I only have 1 option here... trim some off my new windows so they fit into the seal without manipulating the frame which I do hope means the door assembly will fit the shell as it did before the windows were fitted.
I'm fortunate enough here that I have the old scratched, good for nothing windows kicking about, so I'll trim them down as required to fit the f/g door and then, once trial fitted and i'm happy with the fit in both the door and the shell, I can transfer the shape to the new windows and hopefully it'll all be grand.
Then, I have to fit the rear 1/4's which being rivet in type, will also require being trimmed down. yay...

David.

Sorry buddy its the damn Auto correct on my phone pmsl

Noooo, certainly no fabricator! I wouldnt put my skills anywhere near anyone who does it professionally, I'm just picky but also impatient and lazy... the worst combination because while I want it perfect, I just cant be bothered.
There's some stuff im still not 100% happy with, and most likely the photo's show it in a good light.
It'll get there some point though.

David.

So my rear brakes turned up a short while ago,
These dont have the handbrake mechanism as im running split system and hydro handbrake which i'll also having a locking mech on.
I did of course mock these up on my arms.



Progress on the car, attaching the doors and fitting the lexan windows has been a massive pain in the arse. They arent the best fit, as can be expected from flappy fiberglass and a shell which has had better days.

Started by fitting the drivers door, got the gaps about reasonable and came to fit the lexan windows, this maniplulated the frame around the top enough to throw the door out again. so re-adjust and faff and trim etc
Door seals however dont fit, the doors have too much flex in them, even old seals dont fit at all. so I'll have to think of somethign else here.





Started on fitting the rear 1/4 windows, thee being bolt in type, needed slight trim to fit the hole in the body, bolted through but without the seal in place. You can also see where I've started fitting the boot lid, just need some fixings and catches.


Also started on giving the front subframe some of the ol' turbo minis treatment and started that by hacking off most of the back. Plan is to make is semi-tubular, started bracing the back, will of course be more in this area, need some more tube to do the rear legs upto the toe board. These will bolt directly to the shell without a sandwhich, all solid mounted. Subframe's also been raised up a little, the height of the standard mount.


Thanks.

David.

nice

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Looking Good

Cheers guys, appreciate it

David.

Some updates... Starting a while back as I havent updated this in a while.

Bought some wheels to get it rolling, not really intending to use these as a full time thing, I bought the supertrax as they're the only off-shelf 13's I really liked.

Pretty dang close.... errrm...

Following up from the last update, me hacking about the subframe.



Rear stays, bolts directly to the toe board.



Positioning part of the bracing, allows me to remove the rack while the subframe is in situ. Of course I shouldnt need to do this very often, but makes sevicing easier in the event of bending something!



Front bar replaced by CDS, bracing the center in CDS and starting seam welding over the front end.

Still to lighten the subframe some more, started doing one side, got distracted and not done the other side yet.



Decided to get the rear suspension sorted.

I had the arms rebuilt with new radius arm pins and new stub axle pins pressed in.



The view of the back end...



A reasonable bit of wheel sticking out... but a mahoosive gap!

However, i made a bit of a boo-boo...

I lost some suspension components, after taring down the garage it would appear I must have binned them [>_<]

So it was an annoying delay, and required me to get new parts including KAD tie bar set up and new minispares spherical bearing lower arms. (I did originally buy the minisport ones, but I dont like them, so will be sending them back)

I had already bought new, and fitted yellow dot cones, rebuilt the top arms, various other fixings and had the top arm assembled with the original Rip-speed type hi-los.



Some of the bits need another decent lick of paint, will do that after the dry build.



The new KAD tie bars and on car adjustable lower arms.

And the bit I have been waiting for...



(steering arms need to be blasted and painted) but KAD uprights fitted with the ball joint spacer.





AAAAANNNDDD!!!









Looks close hu??

Well it is... and it clashes the wheel!!!! so they're no good!



Just to show the clearance.



And then... onto its wheels!! Although, these wheels wont be staying! Ill carry on using them to keep the car rolling.



And rolled out of the garage for the 1st time in 4 years!!





Im chuffed! even with the crappy non fitting wheels, just means ill need to get my splits sooner

David.

Looks proper mean!

I hoped to use Genuine Rover Sportspack wheels over Jimsters big brake conversion, but alas, the didn't clear either. Funny though cos the Non genuine sports pacs do clear by a long way.

It's pot luck by the looks of it.

Its right close! its close... but its not right. Really, I thought it would be an- all 13's fit, kinda thing.

I had intended using these as wets... but then im never likely to use it in the wet, so... not a huge hassle these'll keep it rolling at the moment and not risk getting the callipers damage by my club hand

David.

Those ball joint spacers, will they fit std hubs too?

I'm having issues with mine at the minute that I can't run it as low as I want to because of the top ball joint binding, reckon they'll cure it?

I havent really got a clue! I'll hazzard a guess at no though. They all came assembled up and set to suit the metro ball joints.

There's a place, Gerard Dale motorsport. Spoke to him at IMM about the tower bolt spacers, and only deals over phone calls.

I know I havent got full weight in it yet, but I hope the new cones settle down quick, as thats currently at the lowest setting on the hi-lo and the back ends wound all the way down, like a feckin monster truck! so will need custom coilovers to fit and get it to a usable height

David.

Not done a lot recently, but I finally got round to fitting lights into the garage, wish it I didnt put it off for so long!




So bright in there! would have made certain jobs a little easier being able to see what I was doing rather than relying on the halogen lamp.


I've also got round to adding some other important parts... Steering!







Still to make a lower mount, i'll incorperate the lower mount into the pedal box mount. so I just gotta get round to picking the pedal box, seats, seat mounts etc and I can get round to propper mocking up.

I've been pretty lazy over christmas break too, but I went n collected some goodies! Hopefully it'll give me a kick in the ass to do some work and move things a long.



taa-daaaaaa. Obviously I had to throw it all in place...

Carbon roof, fiberglass front end and bonnet (I decided against the carbon bonnet as I didnt want to overload the look of the car with carbon)



Roof doesnt fit at the moment, its sized to fit in place of the original roof, so will need to fiddle with the lip I have left under so sit a little lower and accept the panel correctly.



Nice big engine bay, I need to sort out how the front end is going to be mounted. I have seen some nifty clips on demon tweeks site for the front mount. I dont want to use regular clips as I think they look a little ****! I'll be mouthing the bonnet using aerocatches again, which'll be the flush type and will also get them painted.

A few more things



Clubman rear bumper. I only got the rear bumper, but I'm now thinking I might want a front bumper too... not sure yet though.



A nice dash... thats going to take a lot of hassle to fit around the cage, the steering column and aluminium bulkhead. Need to decide what instrument module I

want too, they all seem so expensive but I dont really want to use the Acewell I was using before.



Just for good measure, I had offered up the arch to the rear, needs a little trimming to fit 100% but its not too bad. Also covers the wheel really well... Shame that I wont use these wheels in the end. Might have to measure these and get splits to a similar spec.

Anywho... Enough for now

Dave.

David.

So what was wrong with your brakes? The calipers fouled the wheel? Surely its easy to modify the radial mounts to bring them in a tad?

Looking good.. chucking it together helps motivation doesnt it funny how so many people choosing the clubby fronts nowadays when once upon they were the ugly duckling that no one wanted

Maybe so, but I've always liked the clubmans. I had a propper one before, lack of space and wanting cash meant I sold it. It was only a little pootler


I dont really want to go about modifying things, The callipers sit very close to the disk anyway so the amount of space I would gain would be slim.


I had intended these to only be a 2nd pair of wheels anyway, use these to get the car rolling and use them as a spares for track days. I'm just going to see if can get some weller motorsport type steelies as a 2nd set, depending on ID anyways

David.

Looks good Dave!!

Where's the roof from dude? need to get one for mine in the next month or so.

Never seen one in person so wondered what the fit's like in the gutter area?

It's a Curley one, It's seamless. It does have a few very minor imperfections in the gel but will be easy mopped out.

The roofs designed to fit down exactly where the old roof sits, so you need to jigger the remaining gutter in order for it to sit lower and sit down fully.
At the moment I havent done this as such, its sitting pretty good on 3 sides, but the side (garage wall side in the pics) is a short distance away from the gutter edge. I might further trim the gutter down.
Ian said after applying the Sikaflex and fitting the roof up, use masking tape to hold the roof firm. but not to absolutly wrench it down.
Another issue is due to the size and fragility of the roof, its a collection only jobby

David.