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Looks sweet, what is the spec of the engine?

Nice looking project :)
Benross's engines all look superb imo, never heard a bad word about him! Good luck with the build :)

that engine looks fantastic! nice project too by the looks of it

Avon 2010 class c 3rd
Avon 2011 class c 2nd 13.8 @ 98mph

Cheers guys, here's the spec, in his own words.....

Edited.... spec is now a few posts down after the engine photos.

Edited by evad1980 on 17th Apr, 2013.

Looks top notch!

Better get on with the shell now!

Ha yes Rob, having the lump ready will make me work harder!!

Ok guys, below you will find some pictures of the engine transformation from start to finish. I really want to post all of them but there simply are too many, i'd be here all night in fairness! Over 200!!

Now I'm posting quite a few pictures here because it was a long process and it's a hard decision trying to figure out which ones to include and which not to include, they are all so interesting.

Anyway, see below the journey my engine undertook. Steve, if your looking at this, note the free advertising... surely I should be entitled to royalties from future profits?

Edited by evad1980 on 20th Apr, 2013.

Oh and here is the correct engine spec, slightly different than the one I listed earlier.....

Engine block re-bored and honed + 20 1293cc to tolerance of 5 microns at 20c, fitted with OMEGA cast Race pistons 10cc bowl ..... block decked.

oil gallery plugs pulled and fitted with hexagon ¼ psb blanks and 1/8 psb blanks, new shell bearings vandervel standard size mains big ends fitted with ARP rod bolts, crank balanced to 14,000 rpm, megajolt triger wheel & sensor bracket, centre main strap fitted heavy duty with high grade 12.9 hex bolts including ultra light flywheel ultra light back plate ALCON 5 fingerd sinterd rally race plate, grey diaphram with 1mm machined off the back plate on the 3 lugs, new thrust bearings

Avonbar phase 2 cam BILLET X drilled oil fed on lobes fitted and timed in at 108 degrees with chilled iron cam followers, new steel backed turbo oil pump with duplex steel lightened rotorslide timing gears new locking tabs and cam bearings .

Cylinder head combustion chambers cut bigger to 26cc with FIS shape fitted with 35.7 inlet valves race spec EN24 plasma niterided 29.5m nitrided exhaust valves 3 angle seats manganese bullet nosed guides Hasterloyd inner spring retainers Viton Dupont seals sporting, 180 lb race double springs fully ported for maximum flow & port velocity, red lrocker cover with T bars & seals.

BK450 HEAD GASKET SPORTING heavy duty 1.3 RATIO ROLLER ROCKERS.
new HC water pump
GEARBOX FITTED WITH CLUBMAN STRAIGHT CUT GEAR SET,

MINI SPARES 4 PIN DIFFERENTIAL FITTED WITH diff 3.1 F/D NEW LOCK TABS, NEW BEARINGS,

NEW DOUBLE MAIN SHAFT ROLLER BEARING, NEW FIRST MOTION SHAFT BEARING FITTED WITH 24 TOOTH 1 TO 1 RATIO STRAIGHT CUT DROPS,

ALL NEW SEALS FITTED THROUGHOUT AND GASKETS ALL PAINTED, WITH NEW BOLTS FASTENERS ETC FITTED. THROUGH OUT

ALL ENGINE GEARBOX PAINTED ALL NEW SEALS THROUGHOUT. ready to drop in the car set up rolling road and go!!!!!!

ENGINE COMPRESSION …… IS 8.4:1

Wow ! Loving the build and also very excited about getting my engine back from benross as it looks fantastic ! Loads of work to do at my end ! Il keep an eye on the build :)

Cheers Hoops!! Yup, you'll be a very happy camper no doubt!! :)

The engine looks great, the wizard has definitely done his magic

Indeed he has!! :)

stop getting distracted with shiny bits and get the shell sorted!

So the next job was to attack the underneath, starting with the passenger side footwell. As I have the car up on its side I'll do the complete left half repairs, then I'll turn it on its other side for the right. As I said before, the floor pans had been replaced at some point but had not been done very well. I'm no welder but there is a first time for everything!
So I started by cutting out the pan....



Check out the furry headlining someone had put in it.. nice! All it was missing was a disco ball and some scantily clad females!



And here is the remainder of the shite I cut out, the outer sill and floor pan was fairly fooked in fairness, full of rust! Quite a lot of grinding too, got it all to come on the other side.. I think it's worse!



So popped up to MiniSpares in Potters bar on the way to work, grabbed a few bits including sill, floor pans, rear valance and a heel board repair. Now the fun bit, my first attempt at welding! After watching videos on youtube and gathering as much info on it as possible I took the plunge....



For a first attempt I think it went ok, the welder I'm using is not the best.. It's a Clarke 85en and has two settings only for both wire speed (min/max) and power (min/max). I find on min power the weld becomes quite blotchy and lumpy and on max power its easy enough to blow holes in the thin metal. I have to work on my technique! I'll have to grind down the above welds and go over parts of them..

Thats it for now

It looks OK for a first go.

You need to cover that fluffy headlining up with something fire retardant. One spark from the grinder or the welder and the whole lot is up in flames.

So another bit of an update.. only been managing to do an hour or so here and there so progress a wee bit slow at the moment.

After tacking the floor pan in place I had to fabricate the curved part they made up the tunnel for the gear changer and exhaust. Was quite a fiddly job and had to make it out of several pieces and tacked them altogether.



To be honest I'm struggling with the mig welder I have, I've been doing a bit of investigating online and know I need something with a bit more range, and gas as I'm learning this seems to be the way forward! It's ok for doing tacks but trying to do a butt weld is near on impossible without blowing holes in the metal. I even rang my local college to enrol on a mig welding course but doing shift work makes that a problem too!

So I'm on the hunt for a new welder, still investigating at the moment... I'll continue to use the one I have for the moment for tacking panels in place and then seam weld it all in place when I have my new toy.



Once again, apologies for the photo quality.. it's very hard to get rid of the glare on the phone. Anyway, if you look at the lower floor pan you can see my job is better already.. I know it needs work but the previous job has been overlapped welded and looks gash!!

Thats it for now!!

thats a funky oil filter head thing.... what is it?

also lovely engine +red means we got a fast one here

Ok so I've been hard at it over the last few days, had a few days off work so a great excuse to get the new welder up and running.

Decided to tackle the rotten heel board and surrounding floor area and sills.



So set about the grot with my grinder, drill and box of other destruction tools!






And then made up a piece of floor out of an old panel I had lying around...



And then cut to size a section of heel board from a whole heel board replacement I had... and welded on...




My welding seems to be getting there, a bit ropey in places, but after grinding down and going over again they're turning out not too bad... not beautiful looking but solid at least!!



All thanks to my new bit of kit!!!

Chaps... whats the best tool to use to smooth down rough welds? I am using an angle grinder but its a bit violent at times..

I saw another post where someone was using a roloc air disc.. so I brought one online and a load of sanding discs... but its useless to be honest!!

If a grinder is the tool of choice then I'll crack on with it!!

angle grinder with flap discs.

I couldnt belive how good they are!




http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-ASSORTED-GRIT...=item5656959a43

angle grinder with flap discs.

I couldnt belive how good they are!




http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-ASSORTED-GRIT...=item5656959a43