A long standing love affair - rebuilding my 1380..
Turbo Mini Forums

There the same lower steadies as me, did you drill the subbframe with engine in?

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

For every action there is an equal and opposite criticism.

Few more days progress, started to build my loom into the car....

For every action there is an equal and opposite criticism.

Few more bits of wiring done, getting close to starting it up at last.!

For every action there is an equal and opposite criticism.

Thats looking very tidy!

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Agree'd. I like the "control box".

Thanks guys.....as of yesterday loom now finished - connected up & tested, put a fuse in one circuit at a time, all working, apart from no cranking..! Found starter relay i'd fitted had pushed a terminal out of the back of its block, refitted, cranked to oil pressure, and *big grin* engine fired straight up, happy days.

Really enjoyed designing and building the loom, more pics of it to show...not enjoying faffing with this infernal internal gearlinkage though..!

For every action there is an equal and opposite criticism.

Nice work. i like the radiator :)

Pedro Silva

http://miniciados.blogspot.pt/

are you getting rid of the crimp on connections? i find soldering and heat shrinking gives less trouble in the long run

Speeding is like masturbating, everyone does it, but not all of us film it and put it on the internet

[quote=fab,8th Oct, 2010]fuck off

I read somewhere that over time, soldered joints can become brittle and break, causing problems. On a Suzuki loom I dismantled a while ago, I found, crimp connectors splicing into each other. Maybe something to think about

looking very nice, i like the switch pannel.

I'd never use soldering, best are crimped connection with heat shrink end built onto them, lot of manufacturers don't accept soldering as recognised repair due to the brittle/corrosive issue. Going to heatshrink over the ends of the connectors under the bonnet.

For every action there is an equal and opposite criticism.

Dash all in now, had to rewire the rev counter, from high voltage pulse (diode adaptor) to straight off the edis unit, as it was dropping to zero at 3k rpm. Finally got my gearlinkage something like it, bled the clutch out, and had a play with the software too.

Edited by nikh667 on 12th Apr, 2012.

For every action there is an equal and opposite criticism.

what was the solution with the gear linkage? I fear I will have the same issue.

For every action there is an equal and opposite criticism.

i think its more likely that crimping is far faster and cost effective?
car looks great!

Speeding is like masturbating, everyone does it, but not all of us film it and put it on the internet

[quote=fab,8th Oct, 2010]fuck off

very nice, I have connected my bottom UJ directly to the role pin connecter thing so should reduce some movement there.
It may be worth making some kind of gator for your bottom rose joint? maybe a steering rack boot adapted?

Few more updated pics, got it rolling now, brakes bled, clutch bled & adjusted, few more jobs this week and it'll be MOT time It's prob not going to be ready in time for having a go at first local hillclimb, but means i'll take a drive over to the Riviera Run the same weekend.!



More of the wiring - edis unit deliberately slanted as with it straight I couldn't close the passenger door.!





Made up new connectors for the steering column, should I ever need to take it out:





Dashboard in:





MJ perfect under dash to plug in:



Wiring built into loom ready for TPS sensor:



Plate made up to seal boot:

For every action there is an equal and opposite criticism.

I like the gear linkage do you its going to make the gear change any better?
Been thinking about getting one from KAD

Craig

my mini van http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=448248

Thats a neat looking wireing and control box. I really like that :)

www.shag.no

Ohh, and do you have more pics of your trigger wheel and sensor??

www.shag.no

Craig I think buying a kit if you can is probably the better way to go, i've got a tight gear linkage now but its taken an awful lot of mucking around, and also it's not adjustable so the engine pretty much gotta stay where it is. Have yet to try it properly on the road, so will see truly what it's like then.

Vegar here's probably the best pic i've got of the trigger wheel:

For every action there is an equal and opposite criticism.

Great. Where did you get the trigger wheel?? I am looking in to converting my engine wich also have a belt drive to KMS ignition, so needs a trigger wheel/sensor :)

www.shag.no

It came supplied with the complete Megajolt kit, and is bolted to the outside of a normal damper type pulley - I had to place a thick washer in between the two so that the bolt didn't pull the trigger wheel against the pulley on the outer edge, but instead tightened it properly in the centre.

For every action there is an equal and opposite criticism.

Last few bits done to the car now really, finished my breather setup off with an oil can as a catcher - I did nick this idea off one of you guys (can't remember who.!)..



Boot all fitted (without hinges)



Aside grille all done and MOT'd today :) drove for first time with dog box, which is just superb & so slick, overall am delighted with it, few little bits tinkered with, reset fuel pressure which was over double what it should've been, huge difference to part throttle & idle. So just gotta tax it then a good running in.

For every action there is an equal and opposite criticism.