BMW K1100 16v turbo conversion project.
Turbo Mini Forums

Ok, i made a sketch for what i had planned, but it makes sense all pipes have to have the same length. Well then there is only one way the hard way (spaghetti). Thanks for the fast reply.

Edited by pim1275cc16v on 22nd Aug, 2011.

There ain't no milling machine like the one at home !!!

I think somthing around 350-400mm is allegedly about optimum for the length of the exhaust runners, with that you essentially end up with somthing looking like matty's exhaust,

It may be worth adding a dedicated oil drain in the block or gearbox.

I drilled loads of large holes in the back of my block for oil drain fitment. Never drilled so many holes in an engine before

In deed a view holes here and there in your build, but maybe I'm overlooking it but i can't see your breather somewhere in the pics you posted. Where did you place that?

There ain't no milling machine like the one at home !!!

I use a K&N fitted on top of a transfer case breather can. I cut the top off the breather of course. Cam cover breather and head oil drain, both joined up at the breather can, and the two oil drains from the back of the head and the one from the seal plate drain back to holes drilled and tapped into the tappet chest. I now have another hole lower down for the turbo drain

You can see the breather filter just in this picture

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Edited by Sprocket on 22nd Aug, 2011.

Nothing spectacular but had some spare time tonight so drilled and tapped the head with 3/8 BSP to accept std hose fittings.

There ain't no milling machine like the one at home !!!

Friday my bmw jets arrived so made the block ready for it. One question do for the people how used the same jets, did anyone use loctite to secure the jets?

There ain't no milling machine like the one at home !!!

one of my fav current projects

I used a dab of loctite on mine, but I dont think it really needs it, it seems like MW have diliberatly made the thread a little oversize to lock it in place.

thanks Joe

There ain't no milling machine like the one at home !!!

Hi,
Impressive build!

Where are you based? My mini and engine is in the Noord-Brabant area.

Im currently working in the UK, but that's a small detail...

Hi,

i'm also based in noord-brabant area, near to den bosch

There ain't no milling machine like the one at home !!!

and you?

There ain't no milling machine like the one at home !!!

See PM

But very close

Guys,

I want to use ARP bolts for my setup, now my question:

1 I like to have partnumbers for the crank cap bolts and con rods, and where best to order.
2 Is it necessary to replace original head studs for arp ones or can i just use the original ones?
3 And if i don't want to use original con rods what is best to use for this 16v turbo setup?

thank in advance

There ain't no milling machine like the one at home !!!

These are from specialist components, does anyone have good experience with this set?

There ain't no milling machine like the one at home !!!

Mate just PM johnk (Mr Specialist components) on here and he will tell you all you need to know.

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

I'm using the SC rods,

I have seen a lot of discussion on the quality (or lack of) of the cheaper H section rods, (essentially anything that isnt Arrow or Saenz) all I can say is the set I have from SC look very nice and all the holes are the right size and they havent broken yet.

For me, I was looking at upping the RPM limit which would mean a set of ARP's and getting rods lightened/worked, this was heading towards the price of a set of SC rods so I went for them instead.

one thing I do like about H section rods is that they miss the cam, meaning you wouldn't have to worry about machining off the cam lobes.


One thing I would sugest is a set of these, they are soo much nicer than tse standard ones.

http://www.swiftune.com/Product/731/swiftu...cap-dowels.aspx

the standard Mains bolts are fine, and I've not seen uprated ones for ages, what I did was used minispares cooper S uprated studs, machined off the lump so they fitted through the dowels above and used ARP nuts. be aware though that you will have to mod the gearbox case to clear them.

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=...id=34289&title=

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=...id=35501&title=


For the head studs you can use the original ones, but be aware that there are reports of newly made std studs breaking, so try to salvage them from old engines (that goes for most fasteners)

I guess i will go for this set then, thanks for answering it's clear now for me.

There ain't no milling machine like the one at home !!!

You also could try revisiebedrijf Nuyts in Antwerpen. They also produce H-beams rods for not very silly money.

They have a website http://www.crankshaft.be/ better they are better contacted by phone, since it is a true oldschool engineering company.

This project needs some updates....

Just saying...