The 28 minutes build
Turbo Mini Forums

Today's work was to find out the wheel cylinder I got given by a friend were of a different thread.

To celebrate, I broke the nipple in the wheel cylinder I had !

I wanted to change those, was just looking for a quick and dirty fix but now I have to buy a set !

Rusty by nature

Rear wheel cylinder set bought today during my build allocated time.

On the way back I experienced a hi-speed rear wheel lock, ouch !

Was doing 100 mph on the motorway, leaning on the bike. I thought it was enough so fully backed off the throtlle while getting in normal position.
The combination of these and the fact that my bike uses a shaft drive resulted in a brief but ho so sensible rear wheel lock and the bike had some shimmy.

I didn't had time to think in the heat of the instant otherwise I would have shit my pants !

Rusty by nature

Youhou !

This afternoon, I took the car out of the garage, filled it with oil and gas, connected the battery and started it.

Actually I overfilled with oil ...

And I had the engine turning over for some short burts of 3 second to start the oil flow.

I don't know if it was enough to help the bearings but I was lazy about the reverse in 4th tip ...

Time will tell ...


Finally, I was so happy I washed it !


MOT in the next few weeks !

Rusty by nature

Good for you man:)

Do you have any pictures ?

BTW - I took my buddy VTEC Pete out for a spin this weekend, and even though I am running her in, he gave it a name, the "Brocket"...cause I'm a brocket maaannn, nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah....

Build thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=7483

Katy Mini Owners Club Thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=505552

Let's make sure you embarrass at least one VTEC MINI today !

https://www.facebook.com/groups/17557298589...096464253807802

Not yet.

I never think / dare to take the camera with me, probably because I bought it 3 times the price of the car ;-D

I'll try to shoot some this week end, hopefully it will get me more viewers / comments.

Rusty by nature

I am experiencing a carb overflowing, presumably out of a worn out float bowl internals.

Or maybe it kept on being stuck with dirt.

Can I fit a filter before the mechanical pump ?

What about fitting a T from before the mechanical pump to the HS4 overflow pipe (that runs down the clutch cover) ?

In order never to waste gas ...

Rusty by nature

Could it also be choke seals? if you are using a HIF style carb?

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

That's an HS4 that I modded with passion so I am somehow reluctant to convert to an HiF

Rusty by nature

please make you a favor,
clean that carb float bowl, buy a new fuel flow needle/meter, and make it the right way.
If you spent that much time on this hs4, you certainly could give it this couple of pounds to make it running geniunly and not with this shitty idea of T pipe before the pump.
Then you could have a bit more interest on your build.
This forum is the n°1 A-series ressource, not the shit that you generally crossing, please make it honor!
Sorry for these words I sometimes feel this board going tangent.

cheers
fab

Needle meter already on order.

Float bowl is cleaner than switzerland.

T idea is not to overcome the carb flooding issue, it is because I don't like the idea of ditching gas on the floor ...

I know I am millions miles away from TM standards of time and quality.
Actually, my build diary was not to impress anybody or what but to keep the momentum.

Anyway, I have been thinking and the filter will go underbody in order to keep it full all the time.

Rusty by nature

If the fuel level goes high enough to reach the overflow pipe on an HS, it is also well above the jet in the main body so will be dribbling out and down into the engine.

Bore washing at the least, hydraulic lock at the worst.....

Is there anything to do with the modifications you have made to the HS (pressumably to pressurise the float chamber) that could stop the float ring fully and shutting the needle valve.

But if you modified it to pressurise the float chamber, the overflow should no longer be there anyway........

Confused.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Actually it is still in N/A form, the modifications performed on it are Vizard flowing mods ...

The root of the problem is I used a float bowl cover with the gas inlet but no outlet (probably an older design) so overflowing gas end up on the exhaust pipe ....

If I don't pull the choke a litlle, the car doesn't run ...
When I do, gas goes in the jet but it doesn't go without choke and when it overflows, it is on the floor ...

Anyway, cheers for your participation but as Fab said, I will do it right with new parts, that shall save me some head scratching ...

Rusty by nature

Changed the float bowl cover tonight.
I tested the cover by blowing throug it and actuating the flot bowl and it seems to be closing properly

No sign of overflow but the car still runs really bad.

The car starts with choke only, but rpm's are going very high and whenever I push the choke, it dies ...

And actually, using the throttle make it run worst.
Air leak maybe ??

There is oil in the dashpot, air filter is on, jet has been set flush with the carb.
Really, I don't know where to start.

Ignition timing is crap but as it is electronic I can't set it static or so i have been told.

Tomorrow, I'll try to alter the timing , to see if I can have it iddle gently ...
Then looking for air leaks ...
Hope I can find something to work on ...

Rusty by nature

what condition are your plugs, leads, coil etc in?

Have you set the idle mix ?

"So wat we gonna do tonight Brain?"
"Same thing we do evernight Pinky!"
"Try to take over the world!"

coil is brand new and specific for electronic

plugs were OK last time I checked (when I chose not to fit the new one I had bought)

leads might be old ...

About the idle mix, that 's what I just have been adviced elsewhere, my buddy thinks it is running very very lean.
That shall explain it runs with choke only.

What is over my head is why does it accelerates very fast on its own.
Might be down to ignition timing ...

Away to check those tomorrow.

Thanks of the heads up.

Rusty by nature

Plugs are white so the jet was set some 1,5 mm down tonight.

I did not have time to make it run though ...

Rusty by nature

- Battery died,
- brake fluid is leaking,
- brake connection is fooked on the front LHS, will have to change the pipe or trim it again (as I believe you can't undo it from the RHS without at the very least lifting the engine)
- moral is down
- as if I hadn't enough work to do, I found myself lightening parts


But it did cheer me up ...
So, some file work on the brake disc carrier and thinking about having it turned down 1 mm on the not matting faces.

Rusty by nature

Downside is I found the LHS as got a Metro hub and bearings falling off for no reason ...

Second downside is I found out I'm better off with Metro hubs as they help with the wheel not hitting the front of the wing when turning on full lock ...

Anyway, it's VAT free week so I am gonna treat me with something shiny.

Rusty by nature

Engine is now set-up as good as I can.

Only running on 3 cylinders though.
Plug n°1 was black and wet ...

Should be down to leads or distributor cap but timing was set using the lead of the non working cylinder so it might see some signal ???

I changed the plugs.
Previous plugs were BPR6ES.
Was the R for resistive ?
I bought (and now) fitted a set of BP7ES as recommended by minispares.
Plug gap is 0.8 mm as I have an electronic dizzy.

Sorry if it is a little messy but I am a little lost here ...

Rusty by nature

Plug n°4 (clutch side)


Plug n°3


Plug n°2


And the loser is :
Plug n°1


And that is after roughly 10 minutes of running.

Trouble is I cranked the engine over with plug n°3 then plug n°1 out and they both have sparks so this kind of rules out electronics problems.

Now I'll have to have a leakdown test done because I have been told that if the compression is very weak, the mixture can not be ignited hence the wet and black plug.

The 202 I was working on might have to come into play sooner then expected ...

Rusty by nature

Previous problem was due to the rocker bolt being completely up so the exhaust valve was not opening all the way if at all ...

In fact the nut had fallen to one side !

After that, engine ran pretty good.
I heated it up, it still needs some tweaking here and there but all four cylinders gave 9 bars with the carb not in the WOT position so engine is pretty good.

Appart from the oil leaking ...

Rusty by nature

pic of my car



Rear need to go up a little but first I have to get rid of that oil leak from the transmission.

Is it the good time to fit my X pin diff as I replace those gaskets ?

Rusty by nature

Look who joined the stable :



That's a 998 block I got for free !

I have a 1098 cranck to go on it but it will be matted to my Renault 16V head (SOHC)

Rebore is on the cards.

I have to see what is the required offset to match the head as good as possible.

Rusty by nature

Good effort, i couldnt work on my car in half hour increments, it'd drive me nuts. And as for getting to the banjo on the subframe to undo the rubber hose on the drivers side, i cut a small section out of the inner wing and worked from under the arch, quite a few people i know have also done this