Seemingly obvious stuff / tips that not everyone seems to know...
Turbo Mini Forums

The hammer didn't do it. I just put a ratchet on the crank pulley bolt and with a bit of brute force it un seized. That was after I had hit the edge of the bore with the hammer... Benross, says it will probably overbore out, so all is not lost...

On 7th Feb, 2009 Brett said:

On 7th Feb, 2009 apbellamy said:
When un seizing an engine with a big hammer. Try and hit the piston and not the edge of the bore... like I did the other day... :(

i saw that engine the other day before john dropped it off at yours i think you need more than a hammer lol

-MINI CLUBMAN 1380 TURBO-

When undoing old rusty nuts and bolts make sure your spanner has a tight fit and build up the torque gradually. Don't just rag on the spanner or you end up with rounded nuts.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Failing that just find the trusty nut splitter :)

Doesn't work so well with bolts though.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

When changing the head gasket, always drain the water to below the level of the head (I always remove the bottom hose at the water pump). This will stop you filling your pistons with water.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

Lightweight racer coming soon.

For them you need bolt removers like the ones I have

Edited by scooperman on 11th Feb, 2009.

OK, one more tip. I don't understand why, but when I am trying to tighten or untighten something on a rotating part (like a wheel or balancer or flywheel) which is attached to a shaft, I find that it is easier if I align my lever (the handle of the wrench) acoss the center of the shaft. As an example, a lug nut is outward from the center of rotation, if I put the wrench on the nut and the handle of the wrench crosses the center of the wheel, then its easier to hold the wheel steady, most of the torque seems to go into tightening or loosening the nut, not so much into trying to rotate the whole wheel. If I put the wrench going outward (away from the center) then it seems to put more torque into moving the assembly. Maybe its just a fig newton of my imagination, but it seems to work.

Have you got any pic of your dry sump setup Scooperman I would be realy intrested to see how it is done,
regards,
Paul.

clear to me, but when undoing or doing up a ball joint, support the full weight of the car on the area you are working on (ie, jack up the bottom arm). this should stop the bastard swiveling (sp?).

i was suprised when i had to tell someone this.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

correct, unless you have a really big vice??

My biggest vice is beer. I can't stop drinking it!

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Never work on your mini without a pack of beer under the bench so you'll not getting impatient, if work 's taking the wrong shape, then it's time for a little beer.
When things are not going the right way and you've finished all your beers, that's time to go to bed, it'll go better tomorrow.
to put the bolts that hold engine to subframe, sure you know which one, after having adjusted the holes
use an old heater cable folded at his extremity, it'll clamp nicely the bolt, you'll have a thin hand to access this tiny space.
About the push , pull engine method,
a mini engine can jump out in less than half an hour.

Ok thanks dood sorry for the confuse.com
regards,
Paul.

I have heard of dry sump transvers A series before, and it has been heavily debated before.

One thing I do rmember about the conversations is that it was agreed that the transmission was 'wet' and there was a baffle between the gearbox and engine.

Seems like too much effort just to prevent oil surge for the engine when wet sumps work, theyu have been proven to work for 50 years

dont fit pot joint type driveshafts the wrong way round, they fit but the clips wont work and the shafts will move out of the inner joints when you drive up the road

you can change a steering rack with everything fitted, ie engine sub ect if you loosen all the mounting bolts and jack the body up slightly.

dont forget the atmospheric pressure when working out compession ratios as in ad 1 when youve done the cc into cc maths. 12:1 becomes 13:1

keep the rear sub fitted when doing seriouse welding to the back end ie boot floor, rear valance and surrounding area, if you dont then the rear end can move slightly and its a pig to get the rear sub bolted back up

1.5:1 NON roller rockers will kill valve guides very fast

When welding in a roll cage fit the toe bar before you fit the dash brace bar.