Andy's build thread - 1275GTS
Turbo Mini Forums

Go for it. If anybody wants the original visio drawings and the spreadsheet that explains it all, drop me a PM and I'll send them across.

I'm using one of these modular fuse box jobbies:

http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Modular...lay_System.html

Should make it all relatively easy to wire up...

I'm using the same fuse box - easy to work with if you've got the correct crimper tool for the terminals

surprising how many fuses you can need on a mini though!

I'm up to around 35 fuses, 14 relays and 2 flashers. No doubt 8 miles of wire too.

I bought the correct crimp tool, otherwise it would end up a right mess...

I'll pobably use the 20 fuses the unit has space for and a couple of relays.

I based mine on the original loom so there is a fair bit of doubling up which i'd probably have seprated if i'd built from scratch.

what are you going to bind/ wrap the loom with to finish?

what cable are you using?

Thin wall where ever possible. 5mm from the battery to the fuse box/main relays and 25mm from the battery to the starter and the Alternator.

Andy,

Some relays have an inbuilt Diode across the coil so you have to get the polarity the right way round, also for you its worth having the diode across the relay coils due to the ECU.

errr.... can you translate that for somebody who is electrically inert?

Its for back EMF, the relays below have a built in resistor to suppress the EMF.

http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Micro_Relays.html

what happens is when you release the power from a relay the power in the magnetic part of the coil that you have put into the relay to operate it has to go somwhere, this manifests self as a short high voltage across the relay coil, which if connected to any silicon transistors wothout protection can kill them.

by placing a diode across the relay the voltage is disapated by the diode as a tiny bit of heat. the votage coming out of the relay is reveresed so the diode points up,

EMF - Electro Magnetic Field?

I think I understand that. Diode in a loop between the two terminals that the switch acts on to stop it popping things.

Is that just for things like the ECU or should I put it on them all?

Yep thats it,

I'd put it on all of them, all the relays will be connected to 12v, so you could get the woltage spikes on the 12v line to the ECU for example.

realistically the ECU will have built in protection, but for the price of a few diodes its good practice.

If I was at work next week I'd pop you some diodes in the post.

More soldering. Great....

Just sorting all my wire lengths so I can order it when I get back from my jollies. I'll stick some diodes on the shopping list. Any particular rating? I've got 12v 5w ones for the indicators.

12V diode?

that sounds like a Zener diode which isnt what you want for anything. got the actual part no of that Diode, I'll check.

for the relays pretty much anything will do as the power chicked out by the relay is bugger all, somthing like a 1N4002 (100v 1A)

when are you back of holl's? I can probably get some to you by then.

They are Zener ones, part number 1N5349BG.

Back beginning of Nov and then need to order everything, so there's no mad rush. Very kind of you.

140 metres of cable, a big fuse/relay box, dozens of connectors and switches and roughly 1 trillion tiny crimp terminals. What have I let myself in for....

Bloody hell!!!!! I am planning on sorting my loom in the not too distant future. I bought a cheapo blade fuse box but now I've seen yours i may change my plans.

Did you get all your gear from that link above?

I think you'll strangely enjoy the loom build...

good luck :) rather you than me.

one day boost will be mine!

I feel sick!

In the 13's at last!.. Just

looks like fun mate, it was not that bad when i did mine.

simon.

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

You best get some pepto bismol for when you wire in that megasqurt!

Edited by apbellamy on 11th Oct, 2011.

I'd start at the sensors/lights etc, and work back to the fuze box and do the fuse/relay box last.