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Home > Show Us Yours! > The ClubVan... Back in business!!

evad1980

1142 Posts
Member #: 10165
Post Whore

Stansted, Essex

Thanks Mike... yes it's coming along slowly, starting to feel like I'm getting somewhere..

I have been on to them about the studs but they wanted a pic so emailed them the one above, should hear something tomo or I'll be pestering them. I'd rather not pay for them as I have already!


evad1980

1142 Posts
Member #: 10165
Post Whore

Stansted, Essex

So went to minispares yesterday and handed over my life savings... left there with three rather large boxes of nice shiny new bits... Upgraded brake hoses to braided and also brought two new backplate kits for the rear wheels. I was thinking about using the plates I had but they were all warped and generally fooked so treated her...







Nice new superfins also....



And threw in the fuel tank also whilst I was crawling around...


evad1980

1142 Posts
Member #: 10165
Post Whore

Stansted, Essex

Stuck the rear wheels on for a look... sitting on the lowest setting on the gaz shocks... looks nice...



More photos later.. need to pop out...


D4VE

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2974 Posts
Member #: 10749
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lowestoft suffolk

Looking very nice n tidy!

On 24th Oct, 2015 jonny f said:
Nothing gets past Dave lol

NOTHING GETS PAST ME!! *tongue*

1/4 mile 14.7 @ 96mph 12psi boost
Showdown class A 2nd place 18.6 @ 69mph


evad1980

1142 Posts
Member #: 10165
Post Whore

Stansted, Essex

Thank you sir! *happy*


evad1980

1142 Posts
Member #: 10165
Post Whore

Stansted, Essex

A few more pics of how she's gonna look....







The arches will need to be a good 2.5 inches...



Very happy with the way its looking, glad I went for the 10x6's...


Rob Gavin

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6729 Posts
Member #: 618
Post Whore

Glasgow

Any idea on what arches you want?


evad1980

1142 Posts
Member #: 10165
Post Whore

Stansted, Essex

Hmmm maybe group 5 or 6's (6's may be too wide)? Not entirely sure yet... I did have a set of sportspack but I didn't think they suited. What do you reckon.... any suggestions?


Rob Gavin

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6729 Posts
Member #: 618
Post Whore

Glasgow

You don't need anything too wide. You used to get fibreglass copies of the standard special arches a few years ago that would have worked well on this. They were smooth finished with hidden fixings. Not sure they are available now though


D4VE

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2974 Posts
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lowestoft suffolk


Think theyre all to wide.. ur in the same boat as me on another mini of mine... standard arches or group2s aint enough.. but everything else is too wide and it will look like a hover machine

On 23rd May, 2015 evad1980 said:
Hmmm maybe group 5 or 6's (6's may be too wide)? Not entirely sure yet... I did have a set of sportspack but I didn't think they suited. What do you reckon.... any suggestions?

On 24th Oct, 2015 jonny f said:
Nothing gets past Dave lol

NOTHING GETS PAST ME!! *tongue*

1/4 mile 14.7 @ 96mph 12psi boost
Showdown class A 2nd place 18.6 @ 69mph


evad1980

1142 Posts
Member #: 10165
Post Whore

Stansted, Essex

Yes Dave agreed... Rob, if you click the link below it will take you to the mini forum (blasphemy I know, I actually don't use this forum but it came up when googling arches), look at the clubman in the top right corner on the home page. Thats what I want... and they sound like the ones your describing...

http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/

But they may also not be wide enough...

Edited by evad1980 on 23rd May, 2015.


Rob Gavin

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6729 Posts
Member #: 618
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Glasgow

They look like wood and pickets


Rob Gavin

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6729 Posts
Member #: 618
Post Whore

Glasgow

Thinking aloud, did you tub the rear arches? If so, you'll need to make sure your arch choice will fit. I was going to use gp2 on mine but the arch was too high for them to follow the seam line


evad1980

1142 Posts
Member #: 10165
Post Whore

Stansted, Essex

Yeah I just had a look on their site and I reckon your right... I do like them but they are a quarter of an inch thinner than I'd like..


evad1980

1142 Posts
Member #: 10165
Post Whore

Stansted, Essex

Did a bit more work on the princess today... Put both new master cylinders in...



Getting the clevis's and split pins in was a pain in the arse but got there in the end...



And then got it plumbed in...



New brake limiter valve also...



Plumbed in the front subframe too, upgraded the rubber hoses to braided also...



Slowly slowly its coming along, starting to resemble an engine bay...



I'll have to start looking at the wiring loom soon, maybe renew the old loom with new terminations or look at making a new one which I know a few guys on here have done... getting there...


Rammie2000

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1750 Posts
Member #: 10190
Post Whore

belgium

I made a new one just this week with only the cables needed. Once your out the engine bay it is easy peasy

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018


evad1980

1142 Posts
Member #: 10165
Post Whore

Stansted, Essex




On 25th May, 2015 Rammie2000 said:
I made a new one just this week with only the cables needed. Once your out the engine bay it is easy peasy


Yeah I may just renew the old by cutting off all the old lugs, spade and bullet connections and replacing with new ones. The actual copper cores of the cables are fine.. I'll have a butchers at it tomorrow and see where I'm at with it...


evad1980

1142 Posts
Member #: 10165
Post Whore

Stansted, Essex




On 23rd May, 2015 Rob Gavin said:
Thinking aloud, did you tub the rear arches? If so, you'll need to make sure your arch choice will fit. I was going to use gp2 on mine but the arch was too high for them to follow the seam line


Sorry Rob only just saw this post... did tub the rears, there is still a 2" gap above the wheel with the trumpets and shocks in the lowest position so indeed, I'll have to choose wisely..


tadge44

3004 Posts
Member #: 2500
Post Whore

Buckinghamshire

Whenever I see such a super clean restoration like this I not only admire the attention to detail but feel sorry that it will inevitably get dirty when it is driven !!


evad1980

1142 Posts
Member #: 10165
Post Whore

Stansted, Essex




On 26th May, 2015 tadge44 said:
Whenever I see such a super clean restoration like this I not only admire the attention to detail but feel sorry that it will inevitably get dirty when it is driven !!


Thanks mate... yes the dreaded grime! It's going to happen unfortunately!! *oh well*

Was messing around with the seats earlier, come a bit of a cropper regarding the existing seat brackets.. the old ones have the seat too far over to the right so that the steering wheel is too far left when sat in the seat... It's about 2.5 to 3" off.... The brackets on the seat are the correct width to match up with the brackets bolted to the cross member but just not in the position I need them... This is ideally where I need them...



Another pic a little closer, the bracket looks pissed on the crossmember but it's actually not so ignore that, just the angle I took the pic from...



Here you can see both brackets, need to come left (or right looking this way) a wee bit...



With the seat in the position in the above photos, this is what it looks like from the front... Couldn't really get away with it the way the brackets are bolted on at the moment...



I did have a blonde moment and think maybe one is left and one is right but no, wishful thinking! My options are:

1) Move the brackets completely with new fixings on the cross member
2) I could run a steel bar through both brackets with stoppers both ends to stop sliding left and right (not sure it would be accepted though)
3) Modify the brackets in the fixed position they are in now to somehow fix to the seat
4) Scratch my head and throw a few f's at it...

I'm going with 4 at the moment! *Confused*


Rob Gavin

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6729 Posts
Member #: 618
Post Whore

Glasgow

I'd personally make up new brackets bolted to the original mount holes but allowing you to drop the seat down anyway. I prefer to get the seat (or at least the runners) as close to the top of the cross member as possible

of course, you may like the 4x4 seating position or are 5' tall and need a booster cushion!


evad1980

1142 Posts
Member #: 10165
Post Whore

Stansted, Essex




On 26th May, 2015 Rob Gavin said:
I'd personally make up new brackets bolted to the original mount holes but allowing you to drop the seat down anyway. I prefer to get the seat (or at least the runners) as close to the top of the cross member as possible

of course, you may like the 4x4 seating position or are 5' tall and need a booster cushion!


Lol... nah no booster cushion needed, I'm not the tallest chap in the world but certainly not 5ft *happy*


D4VE

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2974 Posts
Member #: 10749
Post Whore

lowestoft suffolk

Yeah fab some brackets up... the seatin position your on about not lining up with wheel is just standard.. just not so obvious until your wedged in a bucket

On 24th Oct, 2015 jonny f said:
Nothing gets past Dave lol

NOTHING GETS PAST ME!! *tongue*

1/4 mile 14.7 @ 96mph 12psi boost
Showdown class A 2nd place 18.6 @ 69mph


evad1980

1142 Posts
Member #: 10165
Post Whore

Stansted, Essex

A few more bits done... turbo and carb now bolted on...





And then plenum stuck on after. Cheers Dan (mayoturbo) who modified the pipe...





And then did a bit of plumbing....





Still need to connect the oil drain from the turbo to the back of the block, cheers Rob for sorting that bit for me... will be a pain to access though, should really have done it with the engine out but hey ho... Thanks also to David (mossy2a) for sorting me those studs for the turbo...


Chalkie

1909 Posts
Member #: 9764
Post Whore

Northamptonshire.

Looking good!

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