Josh's turbo 1098cc carburetion sucks lets try EFI
Turbo Mini Forums

all right ive had to re do the breather situwation as i had it as just a normal breather filter on top of the clutch covor but it wasnt working out as oil was getting on the exhauts wrap and clearly thats not a good thing so ive now welded a 90 degree onto the rocker cover to join the old breather in up higher and also made a new one on the other side of the rocker covor where it goes out into the wheel arch to a catch tank im still working on now i donno if this will work of be substansial eungh but its all 32mm pipework the clutch covor/dropgear is vented up to the rocker covor and is also the turbo drain i think thats why i was getting so much oil out the filter.. but now aly oil that makes it up now goes to the rocker covor and hopefully dosent keep going.. i hope that venting from the rocker covor will reduce the oil a lot and also increase the posinsal for less crank case pressure

anyway the catch tank will have a drain thats plumbed into the dissy hole in 1/2" tube so any oil that makes it into the can just goes back where it belongs

i dont know what most guys do for the catch tank but i just went with what i thought should work

the idea im my head is that oil wants to go straight and not turn corners or do 180 turns so the gasses and oil mist go in faceing down and then have to turn 180 and then 90 threw the stainles steel wool then out the end caps by then i hope there is only gass that will go up to the top of the box im yet to cut the filter ports in.. and the oil should have fallen to the bottom of the box where the 1/2" line should retern it to the sump

i hope please tell me if this is a shitty idea or if i should change it as im over it any just want it all to work so i can enjoy the dam car haha









i should have taken a pic with half the box welded to show the gap at each end and where the gasses can pass but anyway there is about a 1/2" gap at each end for it to come out the steel wool and go up and down respectivly the filters will be on top and the drain on the bottom

catch can seems to be working just fine

well tired of fucking with the needle situation its all guesswork for me...

im really thinking to fuck the carb off and go to injection tell the injector to put so much fuel in and it goes in rather than guessing where on the needle it needs changeing and by how much fucking stupid it will never be right and will take the rest of my life to get it evan close i think so fuck it i say

I think with most tuning experiance is key, a expert can sometime make some very fine changes which make the car drive like night and day. Is there no rolling roads near you that you can use, a few $ spent there might make all the difference.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

i agree about the rolling road however i need to sort a few things first and the guy told me he dosent like dealing with megga squirt at all and i said its using a carb so just the ignition is in MS he said well bring the car down and ill look at it but he said that in a tone that basically told me he wants nothing to do with it perhaps hes just a grumpy old guy donno but i do plain to take it down and see what happens

a package came in the post today with some goodies in it like an ATB and some gaskets as its got a few leaks still waiting on my other order with the clutch plate and 1144 pads as the ones i have now are rubbish clutch slips badly when i see about 5-7 pound boost depending on rpm and load the brakes simply just dont pull the car up as well as they should

ive been working on the needle all day frustrating as hell but its getting closer and to a point where i feel more comfortable im not hurting the engine but its still a long way off being correct

i dont trust my wide bands at all at times one says its 0.7 rich as hell and the other will be showing 1.2 lean as and this is on the dash gauge not in TS TS shows them a bit diffrent i think i donno its hard to tell when your trying to drive and watch the dash and TS all at once

the dam TPS has buggered up as i degreased the under side of the bonned from the mess the old breather made and water got into it so need a replacement

well lump or iron is out
flywheel and backing plate are out at the shop for a grind was covered with heat marks and all that good stuff so hope they pull up ok and can be reused..

there was a little oil in the housing but it really wasent much like just enough to catch the dust and cake it on so my firts thought was ok whats the primary gear and its seal like but then i noticed a crack where the reses is for the idler bearing.. so will be checking that out and probably swap it out as i have two more housings i kinder thought about tig welding it up but im concerned the thing may twist and the bearing race may be out of whack? but i guess the more important thing is why has it cracked in the first place?

so ill pull it off and check it on the inside and also measure up the gear and look at the seal the seal and gear are brand new but the crank may be worn so ill have to look up the number for the crank to gear clearances and see what i have if thats in speck than its gotta be the crack but i know one thing and that is its no fun putting your foot down a tinny bit and the thing builds 8-10 pound followed by the rev limiter.. and the lack of acceleration

i need to change and look at why the block to box gasket is weeping also so while the box is off i think ill pop a rod and main cap just for a look and also put the ATB in im happy with my diff ratio as i can cruse at about 110 in vacuum but as soon as you touch the peddle and gently accelerate its on about 3-5 pound so its right there ready to overtake that slow caravan or truck on the highway its also on par for the around town stuff id love a firth gear tho.. to just pop it on and coast along to lowwer the revs by a grand or so but hey straight gears and drops it aint getting much quieter..

sort the clutch and oil weeping gaskets and it will be down to the rolling road where the thing will hopefully get sorted out fueling wise

i also took the opportunity to check out the carb bowl and the affects of the alcohol fuel and it looks as it was when i overhauled it only thing is the float is discolored kinder surprising as most guys i talk to say it needs to be anerdised but they run meth so a bit more agressive i guess donno

really keen for this new friction plate and the thing to stay clamped so the power makes to it the wheels after that the ATB and A048R should put it to the road

should have gotten pics of the flywheel and backing plate but its off at the shop to my eyes it just looked like it was typical of a slipping clutch hot spots/ blue patches although the surface felt smooth/polished anyways it will be back witha good finish and a good sintered puck type clutch and te dubble grey i already have so just need to sort the little bit of oil in the houseing and it should be good see what this houseing looks like and try work out why its cracked the thing

breather dose seems to work as the foam filter is dry and the drain is wet donno wait n see i guess but at least the passenger side brakes aren't covered in oil!!

right the good was i got the ATB in and the 0.001" pre load with no gaskets just a light smear of goo fresh bearings and i know i said i was happy with the FD but dicided it was easer to just use the 2.95 rather than brake the bearings off the X pin and 3.2 it should be 3100RPM at 100KPH vs 3400RPM so will be a bit more to get it into boost altho i may change the turbo now but evan if i dont it should be getting on at about 110KPH so not really a bit difference it should be easyenugh to get gain 10 kph to get boost and over take if not i can allways just shift down for instant boost
also i got the flywheel and backing plate back and it looks grate took the bike for a good ride and threw it in the back pack

the bad is i was looking a lot closer at the primary gear and it looks like ill have to pull the crank and get the running surfice ground till its a nice surfice and have new bushings turned and put in the gear as the running clearance is huge! i can twist the gear and feel it slop around so thats where the oil has come from im yet to look at the casting but it looks and feels cracked so will deal with that aswell

i kinder thought about haveing some o rings cut into the bushing to seal the oil out and just have the thing lose but thats just a hack i think so besides haveing another crank done ill have to sort this one out so that its true and clean then sort the bushings to make it work with the correct clearance a real pain in the ball sack but with haveing spent about 500 bucks on the clutch stuff so far and this on top what can you do right? just gotta sort it out so its good and will last

checked out the gear and crank the thrust has grown a lot or i didn't set it right in the first place but anyway
its about a lose 0.0075 and tight 0.008 so according to the book i have that needs to come down to 0.003-0.0065 what do you guys think? found the thickest thrust washer i have and its still way small i need like a 0.140 to get it to 0.003 im going to try the other c clips and the other bit that goes with it just to see but i donno it seems 0.120 is the thickest i can find to buy

also checked the gear with telescope gauge and mic on the crank to get 0.004 running clearance my book calls for 0.003-0.0045 so seems like thats just in spec?

could it be that the thrust is clunking back and forth wicking oil down the gear and out onto the clutch?

do you think it would hurt to have an o ring cut into the bushing right at the end of the gear on the clutch end? just to hold oil in the gear but not let it past? kinder think it would be ok as the gear onlu turns on the crank while the clutch is used

donno probaly a silly idea as no one else has trubble with it so something is wrong i didnt think the thrust was such a big deal of SC gears? n the running clearance being on the large side but still bearly in speck seemed ok at the time to jsut go with it

just want it to be right and not have to deal with it anymore to have the flywheel done and a new clutch is just a waste

Edited by Turbo This.. on 20th May, 2016.

so i found a clutch casting that is good and serviceable so got that cleaned up and re covered my bearings for the drop gears from the old one and into the new one just used a quick blast of heat on the old housing around the bearings and gave it a good whack on some timber out the bearings came so i then let the bearings cool off and heated the new casting to drop the bearings into job done also that crack did go threw to the other side so some oil donno how much was able to get threw it altho it was probably next to nothing

i was going threw the primary gear parts that i have and found a combo that worked to get the thrust into the 3-4 thou range but the running clearance is still as it was at just inside the limmit at 4 thou sp not sure if that will be ok and not leak or what but i really dont want to have to have the flywheel and backing plate re done and a new clutch plate on top of that so let me know what it should be and ill find a way to make it happen if it means the crank out and have it ground true and then new primary gear bushings made to a size of what? then ill do it after all if it leaks ill be up for that cost anyways plus the new clutch cost so it makes sence to get it 100% correct now and just forget about it

the shop stuffed up the clutch grind aswell.. i need my new friction plate to conform this but i bolted it all back up just to see and the diafram is not flat nor are the staps so its clear they didnt take enugh off the backing plate posts.. to conform this i bolted it all up as it would be and used the puller and the bolt for it to push on as if you where useing the clutch but i just did it up enugh to get the diafram flat and it didnt really take much but the inportant thing is that when the clutch is in its engaged state that is your foot off it it should be flat and the drive straps also flat so once the new friction plate arives ill assemble it and messure what needs to be taken off the posts of the backing plate to make it all sit propper after all it might as well be a blue spring if its only half compressed so whats the point of the dubble grey.. it needs to be right..

i took the oppitunity to pop the center main and 3rd rod cap and the bearings and crank look like new so well happy but the oil pump looks like its been eating bits of rubbish so pissed about that got a replacement pump on the way

there has to be a good way to put the filter before the oil pump... plug the normal passage way in the box or block with a pipe thread plug and dril n tap the block and use the box backing plate to attach the suction

hurry up parts....

so ive had a the flywheel and backing plate ground and they did a good job from what i can tell except i think they have taken just the distance they ground off the backing plate and not the flywheel + backing plate metrial removal and taken that from the backing plate posts as i mocked it up with the old friction plate to see where the diafram sat and its no where near flat on the spring plate so more need to be taken from the backing plate posts no problem really ill just take it back and say hey look this is not correct its supost to be flat here and its not so if so much is ground of the posts it will be 100% and ill be happy its really just a case of the new friction plate ariveing so i can mesure how much i want them to take off and hae it sorted..

also in that order is my oil pump as the one on the engine is scrap its eaten up 3 pumps so far and this one its trash so straight up i was like well if the pump is like this whats the bearings like so poped the center main and 3rd rod caps and there like new not a dam mark on them so the over sized filter ive been running has saved the engine but the pump is total rubbish imo so new pump and il be drilling n tapping the box block for the filter to be pre pump and then after the pump ill most likely have a filter in case the pump makes debris on top of that ive got a bypass filter to fit as the full flow filters in most cases only remove down to 25 microns the bypass will take that down to 1.5-2 microns so if the full flow pre pump and the bypass can not make the oil pump last then nothing can..

ill show the filter setup and plumbing once its done but there should be next to no restriction or priming issues ive already made the priming tank for when i change the filters

i did some drilling on the clutch cover and houseing to first let me know if there is an oil leak second to let it cool off a bit hopefully

still waiting on the dam clutch plate as i need that to mesure how much need to be taken off the stupid backing plate post as the grey plate spring dose not sit flat so need that stupid clutch disk to sort that still waiting on the dam oil pump also as the one in the engine is all notchy and lumpy to turn by hand ive tryed geting the backing covor off but the alen botls just striped out.. i hack sawed some flats in but the dam things are sucuk hard core i put it gently in the soft jaw vice and got a big ass flat bale screwdriver in the slots and a shifting spannor to help with tourqeing the thing and just pushing down on the driver no luck i can see the flat balde twisting and so thoes fuckers aint comeing out i was hopeng to get into the dam pump so i could look at it and maby just knock down the high bits causeing the lumpyness but hey call it a loss the new pumps on the way..

ive nearly got the block and box tapped out for PRE filter setup like they did/do on grass track stuff ie suck oil from the sump threw the filter then into the pump into the stock filter and cooler then into the engine main gally so ill take picks later but ive put three pumps in this engine and it seems to keep killing them so long as this thing can prime and dose not have flow isues then it should protect the pump and that will be that

the bearings and jurnals all look mint brand new not a mark or anything so its just the pump keeps eating shit from the box or where ever.. so the only fix imo is to put a filter pre pump and stop the rubbish gettign in there

ill take pics tomorow and get the box back under the block thean its a wait on the pump once thats here i can get the transfer case on then a wait on the clutch plate mesure that have it ground install it drop the lump in and off to the rolling road if there is no leaks and no clutch slip so we will see hope its all goo this time as im fucking over it all i just want to turn the key and drive the fucker park it and its good next time i want to blast down the shops and back..

if / when the barsard all works out and is good ill look into track days but thats probaly never gonna happen

still no mail so not really anything to update
only got the block taped for the pump feed from the filter bank qutie basic 3/8 BSP fitting for a 1/2" ID hose same as the box so need the filter houseing, oil pump and clutch to really do much more

its ready to have the pump recive filtered oil so should last.. and also the stock ish filter will remain as the pump and or cooler may make/let go of some debris so imo its not gonna hurt to have a much larger than stock filter before the main gally

so its going to be...

from the pickup tube out of the box into dual Z9 filters back into the block threw the pump back out of the block in the stock location to the cooler and another Z9 filter into the main oil ways to then find its way in to the sump and re cycle

ive chosen dual filters in parrall to reduce the "vacume" on the pump then once under pressure i see no worries for the pump to push threw a single filter so all goes to plan i should have solid oil pressure and the pump lasting

ive looked everwhere and cant find a place that debris have come from so im stuck for where this shit that keeps killing oil pumps comes from so next best thing is to just filter it out before the pump for a hopefull end result of the pump not killing itself

like i said earlyere the bearings and jurnals are like new litraly not a mark on them so thats a good thing its jsut a matter of gettign the oil pump to live and serve a solid life span not just pack up after a few tanks of fuel..

fuck what where BMC thinking putting the gear box and dif in the engine oil.. just asking for trubble imo

ive also got a sub micron bypass filter to install along side the dual 25 micron main full flow filters so it really should be bullet prof so long as the pump can prime up and not have flow problems i kinda doube that ill have much trubble as i plan to install the filters all so they can be pre filled with oil and also that ill have a prime tank that connects pre pump to force oil into the pump as i crank it over to get it all moveing if need be but i dont thing it will need that so wait and see

ive change from the 3.7FD to the 2.95FD also ive gone back to the 112 cam timing vs 105 so it was really advanced with a really short FD now its back on what kent says it should be and with a tall FD see how thast goes

ill lose a little cylender pressure and thous torqe but it shoudl come on boost a littler earler as the cylender is dumping more pressure by pruduct is the engine should be cooler and the exhaust hotter so spool up and over all boost be better more responsice altho it really wasnt that bad before so what ever but the real reson i went back to stock or kents timeing is i think the rndom afr was caused by this advanced timeing i donno maby it was just a guess.. i mean 7 degrease ontop of the advertised timeing for a cam is a bunch so it may be part to blame for the wide abnds reading all fucked up one minute its lean next its rich and them swaping from rich to lean on the inners vs outers a real ball ache when trying to get a needle profile so yeah keen to see what happends if the thing runs the same but is a slug in the low rpm ill go back as was good before like it pulled up some really steep hills in 4th not a problem when off boost and rich or lean it didnt care much it just pulled hard and boost just made it far better when and where the fuel was on par so i guess some of that is the short gears the rest the high comp and cylender pressure so yeah hope the tall gears and lower cylend presure dont hurt that pulling power as its grate to pull in top gear up steep ass hills at low rpms off boost it feels like an engine twice the size its grate

cant wait for the bits to come and get the thing back together and dow to get a pro to look at it and sort the fuel and timeing to get the most from it i feel the 2.9 gears will make it nicer on the free way altho the 3.7 was still good as it was just on that tip in for boost so 4th gear on cruse was in vacume but a little throttle was traight in boost and pulling hard so i guess ill need a shift down to get instant boost but at the gain of lower rpm and higher top speed/ free way runs with other cars i think it will be a good trade as the 100-200kph pull is a common thing for me and people i know so thats 3100rpm to 6350 rpm ive done this on the 3.7 and its 4000rpm to 8000rpm so i need to pull up short at 155kph.. the 2.9 should let me pull the 100-200kph in that 3100-6350 range

suspension seem good and comfortable at 160kph so see how it goes at the higher speeds.. might need to tweak it for higher speeds but it also feels gripy and trackable as heck at low mid speeds so seems to be set ok to well played a bit with pressures and seem to have found where it works ok at about 14-15 pound front and 11-12 rea this seems to show the best sholder to sholder scrub and feel seems to slide less also when pumped up more it wants to slide and hunt around

need my oil pump and clutch dam it hurry up..

mean while ill work on the oil cleen up what a blody mess under the car.. also mount up the filter bank and sort lines etc also thinking of moveing the cooler to under the wheel arch just for space and also to get the cooler pre filter bank dont want the rubbish that may be in it to get to the pump also i think it will cool better not haveing the radiant heat of the bay there donno might leave it where it is ill see..

ok so its 3/4 for the tapping and -8 an fittings for the lines thats 1/2" ID the red sleeve is the silicone/fiberglass heat stuff just a precaution as it would suck to burn up the hose and lose oil flow..
i taped a pipe plug into the block just below flush and retained the o ring also as the pick up needs a seal there to work



the filters are huge in an attempt to reduce the vacuum / restriction to flow also kinda helps to cool the oil a bit as its like a tank that has surface area although its adds quite a bit of weight

Holy smoke twin filter fun.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

well got a bit of time this arvo to drop the lump in ill give it a turn over with the plugs out to see if it will prime up the oil it should ive filled the filters, lines and oil cooler with oil and the pump has thick gear oil in it so it should be fine i hope..
few bits to fit up like rads and hose connections

getting time in amongst a new job is proveing to be hard long hours but getting back in with a good company is 100% on the shit ive been doing for cents.. so i dont mind working hard for good dollars you know how it is.. work to the pay rate..
anyway hope fully i can get some extra long days in so i can have the week end to my self to finish up the mini and get it in for a pro to tune it up..

then it should be a case of turning the key and enjoying it for a quick run down the shops or a week end cruse or what ever i just dont want to think about it or work on in anymore..

if i do work on it again im getting front clip and cutting the dam front off im sick of the zero space problems.. my enginere said its fine to do so if it needs to come out again the grinder will be first then the lump..

I must admit, sometime working in the engine bay is a massive PITA.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

well to be fair ive made it harder than it needed to be with the way ive gone about things.. lesson one keep it simple stupid part of the experience i guess at least the next car or time it will be different ive already done away with some of the things and changed them to make it easier

i should have it buttoned up tomorw arvo and take it to see if the guys want to run it on there rollers n tune it for me if they say no i donon what ill do as no one seems too want to do anything thats not a common car or an easy efi tune as soon as you say its blow threw SU carb and it uses meggasquirt for the ignition they dont want anything to do with it as it all seems to hard

TBH Josh, I can't imagine any rolling road where you are is going to want to get involved in filing SU needles to tune the AFR side of things.

Even old skool rolling roads would expect to be swapping a few jets/chokes/emulsion tubes on a fixed venturi carb (easy to do), but not filing a needle on an SU, especially a blow through where the needle postion for any given load is probably totally unknow to them..

Anyone can map the ignition alone but there's no point in trying if the fuelling is way out which is probably why they don't want to touch it..

If I was you I'd just install the injection and do the basics yourself.

If you have the twin widebands to see what is happening and the paid for version of TunerStudio to correct the majority of the VE table(s) it really isn't that hard to get it in a good running condition before you think about RR's and what they might expect.

Just my thoughts.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

rod what sort of efi would it be? is there someone else build log that a should read to get an understanding of it? or is it a case of just getting a throttle body with tps and then sorting a manifold that holds the injectors and fuel rail to me it seems simple to build but its the computer side that worries me as in the tuning and getting the fuel in when the valve is open and the whole 5 port issues

id love to dump the HIF44 as its a real pain to change the fueling and also haveing some control over the idle vs intake air temp and such would be nice as it will idle bearly when dead cold but be on a fast idle when hot i think just for the way the fuel burns at such cylender temps donno

but yeah injection would be nice and im winnign to have a go for the rewards and also to do away with a lot of the carb related drama

so i got the thing nearly ready but for some reason the clutch whont bead up its stupid and its usually really easy so kinda just threw it in for the afternoon deal with it tomorrow it works it just feels like crap so

all right well.. good and bad..

clutch holds under boost but as to be expected its on or off paddle clutch and grey plate plus the 2.95 FD she gets a shudder going just hope that dosent destroy anything

still a load of work to get fueling correct or at least close..

oil primes up straight away not a problem there and also changed to semi thin oil to see if the temp changes any but ive not ran it for long enugh to see where it peaks at



any one know why is the afr so erratic?

also i for got to plug in the TPS..

Edited by Turbo This.. on 12th Jun, 2016.

see if this TS data log will upload

nope no workie work

Edited by Turbo This.. on 12th Jun, 2016.

well it seems ive got an exhaust leak somewhere in tubes under the bonnet i can hear it but no chance to see anything back there..

not sure what ill do its kinda point less taking to to get tuned if the thing is pulling air in showing lean conditions

well been messing around with the car for most of the day and made a little progress but nothing grate

it will make a good clean first second pull but it seems its just starving for fuel
i pumped fuel pressure up as much as possible with out it simply pushing past the float seat.. this was approx 11-12psi it did help the engine run wot for a little longer but it sill just goes dead lean after a few seconds wot
up until then its fairly close to the target lambda ratio under boost and wot of .75
the needle looks stupidly thin at the bottom that i doubt i could get it thinner.. might as well cut the bottom off completely

kinda getting feed up with it and think ill just start to figure out and understand how to build a good EFI intake and the related bits to make it work properly

i know there is plenty of info but it seems to be scattered around the place and no real simple list of parts and step by step how to on the latest/best way to do proper efi
so its discouraging that it seems to be a big hush hush and you gotta figure it out your self

anyone make an intake with injectors and rails ect throttle body idle air valve and all that good stuff on it?

i think ill take the car so someone that will at lest look at it and see whats up and if it is a lack of fuel supply or something else

id think that guys have used the HIF44 up in the 130-180 range on unleaded with out much trouble but i think its the E85 needing to flow some 30-40% more volume for the same power thats the problem i think

i think that guys use 700-800c injectors on unleaded for the 130-180 range? so if thats so then ill need approx 1000-1100cc to get about the same

where so i look to understand more about injecting the mini please dont say the serch button it would take stupid amounts of time to look threw it all and 90 percent of it is old info and probaly changed since

Hey josh , sorry to hear the trouble you are having tuning.
It must be something silly , I ran the std bdd needle in mine up to 127hp at the wheels so some where around 160 crank hp and the mixture screw still wasn't all the way in .
The is a lot of adjustment you can do with the su so you should be able to get it right. Oil weight and dashpot spring will make a lot of difference to .

Are you sure the regulator is rising under boost ? Can you do a datalog on fuel pressure at the carburettor.
Also is the needle rising freely all the way ?

I'm sure it's something simple.

Good luck I like your car !

Edited by benjamin on 19th Jun, 2016.

1152cc turboed mini clubman, most powerful 1.1L a-series?

http://boostmini.justboard.net/