MG Metro Turbo Van
Turbo Mini Forums

He he, good job :)

straight pass?

Yep unbelievably a straight pass!

Guy was very thorough too!

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Great job guys, especially after all the hard work you put in and the extra 'late' jobs to get it through first time.

Result.

Fab tax disc holder - such a true fact - roads are shite at the mo.

Richard.

Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u

I can confirm that boost is fun and torque steer is interesting Currently running 7PSi and pulling like a train. AFR readings are pretty good, when on boost staying between 10.5 and 12.

Pretty good for starters. They were going a bit leaner than that too.

Slightly concerned at revs dropping with clutch in. hoping these new thrusts bed in

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

On 1st Apr, 2010 John said:
Pretty good for starters. They were going a bit leaner than that too.

Slightly concerned at revs dropping with clutch in. hoping these new thrusts bed in

Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u

We're going to check the clutch adjustment and maybe pull the wok of and check the plunger, release bearing etc. If they are all fine then it will be engine out again and inspect the thrusts and crank face for damage. So far it only has about 20 miles on it, not sure how long thrusts take to bed in.

Don't panic yet. They do take some bedding in. I certainly wouldn't pull the engine to bits until you have at least 500 miles on it.

also if its a bit retarded timing wise so has less tickover hp , itll drop .try turning the lights and wipers on and see how much it fdrops then ...whats the afr at tickover ?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Thanks for the advice.

Warm starting with an empty float bowl, initially it's about 15, but then settles down to 11 - 11.5 ish at about 1k idle speed with about 27-30 degrees advance configured in the MJ.

Just off to check clutch adjustment etc. Taken it round the block and it's stalling going from 3rd down to 2nd and at junctions etc

When I depressed my clutch after starting my engine for the first time the revs dropped from about 1500 to 700 which had me a bit worried. It was much improved after driving about 5 miles and after 200 miles I can hardly notice any drop at all. I would expect a few more miles to sort it out.

We've just adjusted the clutch and it still stalls at every depress of the clutch. It's been getting progessivly worse as we've been using it. We're going to wind the idle speed up and try and put some miles on it, but we don't want to go too far and end up needing the crank grinding

You did build it with the steel side to the block didn't you?

Yep definately

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

We're back to probably the slowest metro van in the world

We traced the excessive boost to the cheepo ebay manual boost controller, but the damage was done. The engine's out and partially stripped now.

The main reason was the smoke. Low compression on all 4 pots and smoking pretty much all the time. There where also symptoms of head gasket failure. Turned out the head gasket was fine, but it's looking like the block has sunk between 2 and 3 (third time the head has been of with the same result each time, smoke damage but no burnt fire rings). The cheepo head gasket stood up quite well considering. The thrusts where also concerning us as the rev's where still dropping with a good few miles on it.

Shit happens. We have a really good condition block (honing still visible and no lip) which will be getting preped, honed and checked for flatness. It will also be taking a trip to Fast Carl for an oil fed thrust conversion. Total seal rings are on order and should be here in a few days.

When it was first on the road, full emergency starts where destroying the engine mounts. The pancake filter was bent from hitting the bulkhead. We don't really want a red hot turbo smashing into the brake pipes. So while I was waiting for John to bring my engine crane over, I broke out the CAD:




Thin steel prototype looks to do the job quite nicely.




Not bad for a first attempt. I'm going to get some thicker steel and make another. The new one will be boxed in between the engine steady bar and the bulkhead side of the bracket. As it is, I think it would just concertina in under any more than normal load.

excellent cad skills , sorry to hear about the probs :(

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

bad times boys, but loving the cardboard aided design

Cheers. It's just time and money. Used rings in a worn block where never going to be the best.

Explains why the rev's where dropping with the clutch pedal down. The thrust faces on the crank match, so that will be getting a grind.

That's what I like to see:

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

I don't know Paul, you old people and your humour...

From another "old person".....



At least I split my pot joints properly

(was hoping to get it in this weekend but outside work took priority whilst it is warm and dry)

How on earth did you do that much damage to the thrusts ???

What colour spring were you running ???

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Our pot joint splitting method doesn't involve splitting the ball joints, just pop the cable ties, lift the engine a bit and give it a wiggle. Saves jacking the car up.

As for the thrusts... It's a single grey spring. When we first put the engine in the clutch wasn't disengaging properly, we think the damage was done then and has got worse as we've used it. A bent clutch arm sorted that. The block and crank will be dropped of with Fast Carl tomorrow for the crank sorting and the thrusts mod'ed for oil feed.

I ran my finger across the old block this morning. You can feel the dip between 2 & 3. It wasn't like that when we put it in, so it must have got too hot at some point. The new block and head will be checked for flatness when it gets honed.

Bloody hell boys, I wasn't expecting to return from a few days away to read this bad news.

Looks like it's not just me then.

Good luck with puttin it back together.

Richard.

Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u

shit happens