Josh's turbo 1098cc carburetion sucks lets try EFI
Turbo Mini Forums

as far as the needle and jet tube go ive found i need the jet tube set approx 1.5mm down from the bridge i think its normal set flush?
possible the jet tube size is to small or the needle to thick? im going to try raise the needle up in the suction lift thingy and see what hapends that might allow me to lift the jet tube back up flush

so been a few days with little going on because it seems ive got gremlins in the clutch department..

borrowed a leg to press the pedal while i did the spanner work got the thing bleed
ok lets see if it works started the engine pressed the clutch revs dropped a few hundred and it didnt want to engage gear
so tryed it a few times more and bang the throw out bearing collapsed

pulled the clutch cover off new bearing and new grey cover as it got trashed by the bearing
back together bleed it again to be sure there was no air thinking maby there was and trying a few more time might have pumped it up and over thrown it but no air came out so it was bleed fine
so all back together tried again
this time the clutch feels way heavy much more than it did before like pushing your foot flat to the floor makes the seat move and feel like its pulling the mounts out and cant hold it for 30-60 seconds heavy

now it was a grey plate before and the listing was for a grey plate this time so im confused to why its way heavier now surely Evan a dubble grey isn't that heavy it feels like its gonna brake something also the revs drop a lot im sure i put the thrusts in correctly

so quite pissed off with the whole thing

think ill pull the "grey" plate out and put a blue one in that i have somewhere and see first off if the revs drop ans second if it feels super light our not

also think it could be something like the clevis pin has partially come out maby like enough that if still works but binds up or something donno it might be possible worth a look as i dont want to pull the engine and if i do ill most likely cut the dam front off the car lol

if using an older style wide face throw out bearing, check that there is no interference with the actual cover, some brands seem to be a tad wider in the housing - it sounds like too much pressure at the throw out bearing rather than the diapragm.... i agree with you the grey is firm but not muscle straining hard. a bit frustrating but you are nearly there.. keep at it...... laughed at your borrowed a leg comment...

all right so the problem was between the drivers seat and steering wheel..

first i checked the pedal box ok the pin is still there just how it should be

second looked to see if id put the cover on the wrong way ie the bolts in the flywheel hitting the cover a fairly common mistake a few people have made nope that was fine





third hmm wonder what the thrusts measure got the indcator out mesures about 0.12mm about 3-4 thou close to what it was when put in



forth unbolted the "grey" cover and dug threw the milk crate stash to find a light weight one thinking that may be im just being a girl and thats how a "grey" plate feels also thinking at this stage dam ive gotten the thrusts backwards why else would the thing stall when i push the clutch thinking with little run time its not chewed up yet so got the blue cover on all back together nope no diffrence at all hard pedal and stalled

so mesured them and found that the "grey" one i just bought is not a grey but dubble grey it mesures thicker than the grey i had in there

blue


grey the one i had in there what was fine before the bearing collapsed


the one i just bought



fith pulled the blue covor out and flywheel carefully keeping things where they where re assembled on a spare crank and primary gear to center the friction disk removed the fly wheel clutch assembly from the dummy crank i put the cramk bolt where the throw out bearing pushed and put the puller on the lot i wanted to see the clutch let go of the friction plate and sure enugh it did that made me think ok what the hell is going on so after looking at the thing for a few minutes puzzeld to why it now works fine but did not in the car what difftent then it struck me your a fool i looked at the bolt and keyed washer.. some how id put a front pully washer on top of the keyed one and being ground washers they stuck together from an oil film between them





sixth all back together with the dubble grey haha yes they sent me a dubble grey but billed me for a grey lol put my foot on the pedal and nearly pushed my foot threw the fire wall dosent feel like a duble grey its quite light anyways the clutch is working just fine no rpm drop and no crunch into reverse so will need to see if it holds under load but so far im finaly going in the right direction again

the plate that the release bearing pushes on was being stopped by the flywheel bolt what was now to close from the extra washer under it

what a git

good that you got it sorted..... and i like the way you were methodical in getting there.... good fix,,,

been a while back at it now
been able to get a few things done so should be ready for the roadworthy and modification plate in the hope it will be registered early next year thats the plain have it on the road before February

this arvo i want to get the loss ends fixed up like wires, loom cover, heat shield for master cylinders and look at how to sort the dash out its a blody mess

i left the car sit for to long and the fuel dried up leaving a sticky residue that glued the needle and seat so that was a pain but sorted now guess the e85 has some reaction not sure but it seems fine if i start it fortnightly it haent bee started in more than a month as i took the coils off to build a bracket but never got it finished until now

got the oil pressure transducer set up to read correctly once again in tuner studio this time ive written down the numbers so i dont need to remove the gauge and rig up a test gauge and air supply

it seems ive got some work to do for the starting ingnition advance as its ok but not as crisp as id like for a cold start but hot requires the throttle to be opened a little and it cranks for a second however i think its just the timeing and setting in TS

Edited by Turbo This.. on 6th Dec, 2015.

getting closer now really keen to finish it off

bit of a heat shield although not sure how much it will do? but i know the safety cert guy will want to see a heat shield just hope this is on par






next thing to sort is this mess



any recommendations?

was thinking just a simple flat dash

the ecu and fuse box panel is on hinges and folds under the dash

whats your thoughts on the breather being so close to the exhaust? the turbo drains into in right at the bottom is the transfer gear housing one that breather is about an inch off the bonnet so theirs a good height difference from the oil but im not sure how far the oil can move

also not sure it its the fuel or timeing or the actual cam timeing

but its not as smoth as it was before at idle now it seems like its goot more cam to its idle

i did time the cam at 105 to try get the power and boot lower in the rev range could this be causing a lumpy er idle? the specs say 112 full lift so thats 7 crank shaft degrees advanced altho last time i had it in at 107 and it was smooth as silk so not sure starting to think ive buggred it up

just some thoughts it dosent worry me thats its a little lumpy its just that im not sure what the cause is lol

i would tend to use a catch can ( fit one in the front left pocket(as you look into it) of engine bay, above steering) that's where lots of race minis have them. This keeps all oil spats at bay and if you like you can vent to air from it.... i do think the clutch side will fling oil but you don't have a lot of room..... and yes no idea if heat shield will keep brake fluid from boiling,,,,, but i wouldn't want to be going fast and find out the answer is NO... keep at it the finish is near

7 degrees is a long way out - that will cause poor running and you'll probably be losing a chunk of power.

my other option for crank case ventilation was to have something come out of the rocker cover then into an under wheel arch catch can

with the way ive made the manifolds and the over sized rads its all way to crammed in id change a lot of it if i did it over..

cam timing i didnt know it was such a big change at this point i think ill see what hapends? ul lees its so far out that its beter to pull the lump and set it right? maby it could be changed in the car donno being advanced by 7 at the crank isnt that 3.5 at the cam? i was thinking being a new chain it may sprech a few degreese as well as wanting more low rpm tourqe was my thinking guess ive gotten confused

i guess i could pull the charge cooler and jack that end of the engine up to get the cam covor off to adjust it its a full day to pull the dam thing learning curve i guess... ill do a lot difftent the next time i do it thats for sure

any way ill have about 2 weeks to get it sorted before reterning form work

haveing truble getting tuner studio into that page where you set the base timeing you know the one that holds the timeing at a set number and then you grab the timeing light and set it for the same fixed number as it shows in tuner studio then you add or take timeing in TS untill the light matches up

its out by a bit.. tuner studio would say its at 14 and the light would show 21 its 7 more than TS thinks it is! for now i just took 7 from the whole ignition table its a hack and i want to fix it

under the tools drop down i enable the un/lock calibrations and i get acess to the thermister and afr tables but not the dam trigger wizard ! tryed closeing TS and reconecting TS and the car but no good

right got the base timing sorted you need to adjust it by changing the #1 tooth angle when using the trigger wheel option the trigger wizard will not open for some reason any way sorted now

tomorrows tasks are to sort the dash and put some bulbs in the parkers and number plate lights also put the exhaust tip back on rather than dumping 2/3rds down the floor pan lol

dash will likely be just some alu painted black dono at this point just want it good enugh to get it on the road then ill worry about makeing it nicer its allready stupidly heavy and a lot of what ive done id change if i do it over so what ever so long as its legal and so long as it last a reasonable amount of time the body need the rust sorted in the next year or two and by then id like to be in my own place so will like ly be taken back off the road to do it right but for now i just want to enjoy it for a year or so

A Flat dash should look good in a clubby.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

well ive cut the dash to shape just needs a few hole saws for the boost and wide bands then a quick spray with black paint or something
it seems ive lost the dam gear shifter rubber boot but i have the steel hold down plate? so need it find a rubber boot to keep the roadie guy happy
the dam fan belt keeps getting loose and slipping like a bastred so well feed up with that! thinking about changeing to a toothed setup so the fucker cant slip!
frekin bolt froze up in the rad mount so i drilled the head off it to get to the alt/water pump belt and guess what the drill sliped off the bolt head and now ive got a fucking hole in the rad! i cant evan pinch the tube at each end as the hole is right at the end tank!

so frustrating!

did one thing correct today... crimped the TPS plug on and calibrated it in TS so thats one tinny bull shit thing done

also found out why i was getting intake air temps up in the 45C the dam water pump was disconnected so there was no water flowing in the IC system so the turbo was just pushing heat into the cooler and the rad was useless due to no water flow ba haha dumb ass

today's effort was one step forward 5 back!

need so sort the dam fan belt so it dosent slip and turn the belt into tiny bits of rubber that stick to everything and some how make the rad not leak and get the bolt outa the mounting hole and thean maby will be back to some place where we might beable to have a road worthy cert filled out and have regerstration on the mini

its just so frustrating haveing ZERO space to work with! if i ever turbo a mini again ill chop the fire wall to make a bunch of space to where the turbo will fit and cut the front off at the doors for a quick removable glass clip

haveing to pull half the shit out to get to things is bull shit

who want a free mini ? over it !

We all get to that stage sometimes best to have a rest from it, hard to do when something is bugging you I know! But it does always seem to go better when to come back to it.
Keep in there!

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Some days it just all seems to go tits up.. As Graham says, best to leave it a couple of days and then come back with a clear head.

I've found loads of times I can struggle with something for hours towards the end of a day, come back fresh in the morning and do it in no time!!

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0

Trigger happy...

Edited by Mike-998 on 4th Jan, 2016.

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0

right well guys
anyone know how to plug an alu rad tube?
the alt pulley looks like the one thats slipping so thinking if i can get the belt to contact more it might have a chance if not i might need to swap the pully for a bigger one or put a idler in to make the belt grip better
not sure what the problem is tho as its basically the same as a stock setup so really it should be fine?

right so the alt pulley had a radius in the bottom of the V so when the belt slipped it wore down the with of the belt and then it could no longer wedge into the V as it sat down on the radius

each pulley has a little more than half the pulley getting griped by the belt
also a new belt so it sits right up at the top of the V

so hopefully this will work?





can that much bend in the belt cause it to heat up or crack? i see most modern cars have the belts go between a bunch of pulleys and idlers but those are modern multi v belts
the bearings are probably not 100% square but its about all i can think of so hope they are close enough also not sure if the rpm at the bearings will be ok?

not sure i guess time will tell

had a go at aluminum brazing on the rad and of course my MAP gas torch was out and my crappy butane torch didn't have enough heat so going to get a refill

Edited by Turbo This.. on 9th Jan, 2016.

work shop is mostly back in order its been a right mess for months spent the day sorting it
also found the fresh air pipes and fittings for the heater box and got them on the car so thats a win thought id left that stuff on the van i sold

also "finished" the crappy dash blank off just rattle caned in flat black and put some new wiper blades on haha

75' Mini special deluxe.
1275 A+ engine with turbo on the way...

yeah those bearings will be working hard thats four sure ive nto measured the sizes but the bearing has to be atleast 4 times smaller than the crank pully so thats 4 times the engine rpm ie @6000rpm those litle bearings will be going 24K rpm !
at the time i wasnt thinking about it i was just thinking that it will stop the belt slipping if it gets a little lose or what ever

so there may be a diffrent bearing or size need i donno tho as i looked on a few modern cars and there idlers are about 2" or so the bearings i used are clutch throw outs that i had laying around and the pins are from pistons lol

to be fair im thinking about stopping work on the mini untill i move into my new house and have my own space to work under a roof and lights im not happy with a lot of the stuff ive done and want to re do it correctly and diffrently so that its easy to work on and also more simple and light weight the car must have put over a 100kg on since being NA lol now that ive messed around and lernt a little i think its time to fix it up will see i all ways change my mind..