Josh's turbo 1098cc carburetion sucks lets try EFI
Turbo Mini Forums

ok so its just a matter of if ill be likely to hit water if i go and cut the lump out the then blend the guide into the bowl i dont think i will as ive seen a few heads with them completely gone

as far as taking heat from the valve that extra boss thats not in contact with the guide am i correct to think its doing squat for heat transfer?

im thinking at this stage ill go and cut the boss down till outer dia on the guide shows itself at least on the sides and call it good if theirs a bit round the back it may not be so bad

just not wanting to trash it at this stage of the game

i did measure the guides and they are shorter about 4-5mm forgotten the measurement (wrote it on my hand washed off lol) compared the mesument to the std book one

haven't measured the seat with but im sure its in the 60-70 range

its hard to show the short turn but thats where ive really tryed to get a nice shape

few old marks here and there if anything looks like it should be changed well appreciated

That's some really tidy work. Very impressed.

I'd imagine there's a bit more to come out of the guide bosses. You've probably already seen it, but this site has got a bunch of useful articles, this one specifically about grinding small bore heads. I Haven't looked at it for a while, but I think it's this article that he warns not to completely flatten out the boss on small bore heads as you'll hit water...

http://russellengineering.com.au/performance-cylinder-heads/

ahh yess thats the article i read a while ago and tryed to base mine on ie small valve with good shapes rather than big big vlave and poor shapes around the seat

it apears that in the 202 stock exhause ports water may be hit about half way down the length of the std guide std guide is something like 40 some mm i think from memory mine are some 5mm shorter so if i dont go to deep it should be ok but ill mesure it up first

at the end of the day theres all ways a risk evry casting can be diffrent

thanks for reminding me about the artical man compleatly forgott about it

my works not that tidy imo its ok and will work but could be better ive been at the mini for some 5 years now and its over due to be back on the road propaly again so she will be fine

i do take my hat off the the guys doing heads profesanly they deserve the cash id not grind my onwn head again to much work if there is a next engine it will be k1100 for sure

well gotten something done!














so we have a blown head gasket (reused) surprised it lasted that long was only till the new head was done anyway no big deal

no marks or burns on the block so thats good

im thinking the extra blow by from the blown gasket has caused the crank case to have excessive pressure
the inside of my clutch plate is soaked as well as the relating side of the fly wheel now this has not come from the primary seal but its come out between the crank tale and primary gear its self by the looks of it and as a resolt the backing plate has burn marks (hot spots) as its been working double time due the the other side providing zero grip due to oil soaking not real happy so will have the thing ground and get a new friction plate

love the sound with the new smithy's glass pack bit of turbo howl and a sort of WRX boxer rumble its kinder weird hearing the note coming from a mini


see the "No or very little oil pressure" thread for my take on my oil problem

got the block striped down to inspect it as i was worried i may have damaged a piston or the bottom end but it looks fine still need to clean it and have a proper look but aside from some scuffing (debirs and maby oil stave) bearings look ok crank looks brand new still

i did notice tat number 4 cylender was dry and the other 3 wet with oil now the head may not be the cause as it looks dry nothing from the turbo ether so that means icomeing up from the rings also since the fireing order is 1342 the being 3 fires burns mixture pushing into number 4 then that compresses it and burns it makeing huge pressure pushing a bunch of crank case pressure is my thinking as to why its dry and the other 3 wet

anyway so it seems my oil burning is rings.. so maby a fresh hone and rings is in order i mean the bores look fine maby a bit glazed up not sure

more on it tomorrow afta work

block, pistons and rings are in the shop (well know one this time) the guys who fixed the other guys fuckups on the line bore

anyways they will look at it tomorow and see what needs doing they have a serfice finish thing that reads the bore wall for roughness say they can tell from that if it will need a new hone or not also they will mesure the ring drag and fittment and look at the rings under microsope for beadding or wear

so hope its at the most a hone and new rings could be just new rings or something else to get it all working and sealing up my bets on hone n rings tho

Good luck

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

been doing little bits here n there its nearly a long block need to put the cam chain on n time it heads on going to use a spark plug piston stop to set the degree wheel

need to look for some shims for the med 1.3 roller rockers im not happy to run it as is to much thrust gap for me yet to check the rocker sweep on the valve need the cam timed in for that might need to shim the rockers up or something im being fussy as i want the guides/seats to last

thinking i may splash out and get an ATB diff and change to a shorter FD make it a short sprinter rather than free way flyer the 2.95 is grate but its the whole getting moveing thats not grate i know if i go to the 3.44 or shorter it will likely resort in lost of smoke so thats why im looking at the atb to help a little or at least lay doubles

cant be arsed with pics atm will do later

must say med make grate valve collets and retainers the fit wow theirs no comparison glad i spent the money after feeling and seeing the fit and quality altho this engine isnt going to be a screemer its nice the have better parts than is really needed mainly because good genuwine stuff here is like gold the guys who will sell it want its weight in gold

made my own 15 tho gasket for the oil pump as i was convinced there was room for improvement rather a fit for the pump i made it fit the block as that worked out better to give the most gasket metiral around the ports and cam area was easy and took about 10-15 mins altho the guys said thers not much wrong with my gasket and or pump set up i feel thers no harm in it after all who want to keep takeing there enigne apart

so tomorow after work ill dig out the spark plug piston stop set the degree wheel up for truse tdc then set the cam n chain after that ill set the rockers and check the sweep as well as see to the thrust shimming between 2-3 and 6-7 rockers there looks to be at least a mm of slop vs the 4-5 at a guess of 5-10 tho

after thats buttoned up ill probaly look at the diff and if i want to change it for a ATB and some short gears 3.44 maby build the box up and get in under the long block

wow! been ages since i checked your thread out josh, so much has happened, kudos mate!

must say the MED valve collects and steel top caps are grate perfict fit to the valve stems not like the bull shit rubbish mini spares or sport sent me

got the cam sender bolt sorted found one that has a smaller hex with the same threads
cams timed inlets are 1 thou of the seat at 16.5 degrease full lift 8.86mm at 105 degrease 1 thou from the seat at 44 degrease giving 240 degrease duration from a thou each side of the seat as for actual lash between 12 and 18 thou i set them at 14 and adjusted them from that cams 7 degrease advanced going to see how it behaves its a new iwis chain so might settle in and drop a degree or so

my compression ratio is close to 9.72 this is not including ring lands or the oddly shaped gasket of the small bore so its actual less

this works out with the 44 degree valve closure angle to give 8.8 as the piston is a good way up the bore before the cylinder is sealed and can actually make pressure ignoring charge ramming this works out to give 180 psi mathematically that should be seen on the compression tester

time will tell

im now looking into the box the 4th gear syncro has chewed up its surroundings where the 3 tabs ride in the hub as if its been draging or running out or round
no i didnt forget the pocket or nose bearings ill take some pics when i get there

well busted my knee doc says 6-8 weeks what a downer

getting back moveing all be it slowly

pics from a while ago short block built and head assembled box has been striped cleaned re assembled put a good old bulk ring on 4th gear as it had worn a lot? not sure whats up there time will tell if theirs still a problem there

as it sits im waiting for my ATB and a transfer case gasket and it should be back boosting well base tune then dyno tune

few minor things i want to fix/make properly while i wait but doing ok given my dam knee

Lateral collateral ligament?

nice socks!!!!!!

Outside the box

type ii lateral tibial plateau fracture

the worst part is cartilage damage and the brakes in the joint so thats going to make a pain full knee later in life

at least its not the kick starter leg!

plenty of metal in my knee

yeah bamboo fiber socks are awesome

Ouch on the knee! Hope it gets better soon

I love the colour of the head, don't you just love putting a new clean engine together!

Edited by gr4h4m on 10th Sep, 2015.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

each day its a little better and easyer to do normal activity's its the waiting time for bones to heal that sux 6-8 weeks before i can put weight on it and get the muscles working again and get strength back in the joint

anyway i ground the head nearly smooth enough to start sanding to polish it as was my plan a miror like polish but decided i just wanted it done so hit it with a flapper scotch bright and 2 pack clear coated it i dono if it will stay clear with heat cycles and the rest for now it will do

it is nice to assemble clean parts its the cleaning up before building that i hate but its a necessary chore

some may know that i wanted to swap my pot joints for hardy ones think ill just keep the pot joint and just suck it up when its time to put the engine in and out its a bunch more time with the way i built the manifolds and other bits so cant blame anyone for that haha

my to do list is
tdc pointer on the timing cover
extend and heat protect cam sender wires
alter turbo drain and breather
fabricate air filter box started the template for under the wheel arch got to hard so left that stupid knee makes everything hard
get and install tps on the hif44 carb
paint engine bay not gonna happen this time cant see much of it any way so it can wait till the body gets some love
drain fuel tank ready for ethanol
change crab needle to flow approx 15-20% more fuel
find a place to put the plumb back bov
check all holes in fire wall have rubber grommets

Edited by Turbo This.. on 19th Sep, 2015.

looking good. i think your e85 gas will be a greaty combo with boost, but are you sure flow only needs 20% more?? if i remember correctly ( and that is a big if) i thought the energy given off was just over half of say ULP, so possibly 40% more fuel needed..... don't know for sure, but maybe worht double checking on google... good luck with th knee rehab

yep your correct not sure what i was thinking 40-50% more volume this will likely be a problem with a carb that needle will likely be quite slim!

it could still be do-able - if my circumference/ area memory is correct - since the area of the fuel cavity ( ie the jet minus the profile of the needle) is a squared figure ( ie pie x r x r) - so a small increase in cavity size results in a big flow gain

you can probably compare a couple of needles and do some rough figuring using something like a BDL as a starter ( ie if BDL is close using normal unleaded then what needle would give similar results using e85)

you probably are far more clued up on this than me, but i couldn't really expalain it well enough. Hope it helps, as i DO think E85 is definitely the way to go

man did a super easy google search for SU needle and found this right at the top of the search

http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/

its awesome to see a visual on what the SU book says

also ive relisyed that i can use the 0.090" size needles in the 0.100" jet this will jive an over all rich mixture

ok so far from the calculations ive done to get the area where fuel can flow and add 40% more area ive found that the AAA 0.090" needle to go with 0.090" jet tube is real close to being 40% more area when installed in the 0.100" jet tube need to finish the math and also this is just a ball park get it to run kinder safe to see what the wide band says then change the needle from there

Edited by Turbo This.. on 15th Sep, 2015.

TPS finally showed up and made a super hack mount that seems to work waiting for a hand to get the lump of iron moved to the shell stupid knee is getting there slowly
soon as i get a hand the thing should be back boostin i hope
fucking forgot about a dam plug for the tps... needa sort that its just a GM 3 pin mushroom type
over this just want to turn the key n enjoy the dam thing sell the thing for a sports bike if its not sorted soon

lump in i split the top ball joint on each side pulling the hub out a bit till the brake line was almost out of slack to get the drive shafts to move farther out for a slightly easier install still a pain with the full kit bolted up.. get hung on the diff studs and down pipe watchin the oil cooler dosent get squashed up front

anyways its in a bolt in each lower mount called it beer time should get it buttoned up and give her a kick on E85 if all goes well tomorrow

good to finally lower it in. Getting the last engine mount to line up can be a 10 second job or not... wishing you best on fire up... hope that knee of yours is up to clutching

with a clear head this morning i got the mounts lined up

so got the inportant things connected drained the remains of the fuel fulled up with E90% (did the quick test for %) was kinder suprised when it came out as E90 its the wormer time of year when its expected but E90 is kinder more than what ive been told to expect so i re tested it yup 90% so anyway with fresh fuel primed/flushed the lines into a container conected it up tested the fireing order was correct in TS yup oil in the engine yup ok lets turn it over with out the plugs yup oil pressure sweet plugs in key turn bam its alive

so my guess at the carb needle was fairly close at least with no load its close

my TS has buggred up its bringing up an error for the dash board says its messed up so ive lost my oil pressure tranistor calibration table als lost what pins i had assined to the othe sensors and stuff so that sux big time

also it seams ive ether messed up the porting or the E90 has amplfiyed the charge steeling im seeing about 2-3 afr diffrent on the gauge this is not really confirmed as there still in afr not yet changed them to lambda but ether way 14.7 aft is 1 lambda so the 14.5 and 11.5 i was getting at idle seems a bit spread out

cam/crank signal problem i had seems to be gone im not seeing syn loss or the dubble signal i was gettign so win there it was the stupid cap head bolt giveing two signals

i do have a problem tho TS is not showing any engine vacuum! i hope i didnt mess the cam timing up! hope its a bozo mistake of an open port or something like that it also whont idle below 1000 rpm where it use to idle quite happy around 850

so as of now i need to find out how to get my old dash Bord and tune setting back
need to re make the coil/fuel reg bracket
connect the snifter rods
torque the top ball joints and put wheels back on
bolt exhaust on to down pipe
investigate engine vacuum or lack of
oil/filter change cut open filter

just quickly this is the load error when opening the project file



ended up starting fresh deleted ts and its folders reinstalled and it seems fine now

looking at the no vacuum issue i found the mud flys had filled the end of the hose little buggers

lambda at idle is quite a lot better that i first thought

just an average spread taken from TS log file .762 and .733 lambda @1020rpm 18 decrease advance and 53kpa/15inches MAP averaged over 60 seconds

idle speed and quality needs work id like the idle to be down around the 8-900 and smooth out a lot more its quite lumpy/lopey

waiting for a hand to blead the clutch other than that i think im ready for a short load/boost test

Edited by Turbo This.. on 6th Oct, 2015.