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Paul S

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How's it going Rod?

A whole month without an update :(

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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On 11th Jan, 2010 Paul S said:
How's it going Rod?
A whole month without an update :(


Well, until today (as you made me feel guilty....), it was going nowhere.

Set it all up on axle stands before Christmas to design/fabricate the fuel pump/filter under the boot floor but I put it right next to the garage door as I prefer to work in daylight whenever possible.

Then it snowed, right up to the garage door.
When it melted over Christmas/New Year, we had friends, family, usual stuff, and as soon as that was over, it snowed again, but worse.....
It wasn't until a partial thaw on Sunday that I could even get the door open....


But today I laid an old carpet over it and I lay down on the cold frozen ground to do a bit.......

Cradle design


Boot floor will be via an exhaust bobbin and attachment to the subframe flange will be with two small rubber bushes. The pump and filter will be attached to the cradle inside rubber tubes (probably silicone intercooler type tube) with "U" bolts.

And propped in place underneath




Once I've thawed out I'll make one up in steel and check it still lines up.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


tadge44

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Great minds think alike. I have the same pump and filter mounted in a very similar way, although not on cardboard with tie wraps.


Rod S

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Well it reached 3 degrees centigrade in my garage today and as all the silicone tubing and clamps arrived today as well, I made it up in steel.





Epic fail....the filter is too high so fouls the boot floor.

I could use a longer bobbin (gearchange rather than exhaust type) and put the lower bracket under the subframe flange, which I don't like as everything is then "hanging", or I could try swapping the pump and filter around as they are different diameters but that would mean re-drilling all the holes for the clamps and messing up the pipe alignment......

But as it's Friday evening, I'll probaly do something more sensible.....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Paul S

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Could you not ditch the exhaust clamps and make a simple strap out of thin steel to hold the pump and filter?

There's not a lot of load trying to shift them around after all.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


tadge44

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Yeah Rod I think all those HD clamps are definitely OTT for the job


apbellamy

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The hose on the pump to stop the vibration is a good idea. I may borrow that idea for the van's pump. I have our pump fitted on an old coil bracket rubber mounted to the floor.

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


Rod S

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51mm is a tight fit over the pump (needed a bit of red rubber grease to slide it on) and 57mm was a perfect fit for the filter. The main reason I used it - the whole plate is mounted on rubber bushes for vibration/noise - is electrical isolation of the alloy pump and filter bodies from the steel clamps to prevent galvanic corossion as mine is being mounted under the car.

And yes, it is all rather OTT.....

But it seemed like a good idea at the time.
A cheap off the shelf solution, no having to fabricate more bits, the folded steel part of the exhaust clamp stiffens up the plate so it could be thinner steel etc.

I just hadn't appreciated how "tall" the folded steel part of the clamps are once they are up at 61 and 67mm dia (the silicone tubing adds 10mm to the pump and filter diameters as well) so it all ended up a lot taller than my mock-up *frown*

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


PaulH

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well done rod a lovely bit of engineering I love OTT solutions to things like this I really really do :).

Put a bulge in the boot floor thats what reno done !!

On 17th Feb, 2009 Rob H said:

I find the easiest way is to super glue the bolt to the end of one of my fingers.

______________________________________________________


Rod S

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Well despite Paul H's proposal to put a power bulge in the boot floor....
I waited for the weather to warm up so I could lay on the ground outside.

New design



Then my neighbour Dave saw me working under the car and came over for a chat.................

3 hours later we had fixed world hunger, sorted out the new Government and I think we had sorted out climate change too... (don't ask about the worthless windmill outside my village that we all pay for).

But by then it was dark and Dave left.

So, suspended underneath






All hangs nearly the way I intended so, apart from making a new mounting plate in one piece (and sorting out global warming), I'm nearly there.

I just need a bit of daylight and someone else to sort out the planet's other problems.......

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Rod S

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Well today was above zero centigrade for a while and the sun actually came out for a couple of hours so I decided to finish the fuel system.

Measurements with engine in



then engine back out and form the pipes around the bulkhead box...

I used some rathe basic techniques as I couldn't get the former in backwards.



A bit of firewood turned up in the lathe as a former and cut to size...



Result is what I wanted.

Then I did the rest of the fuel lines inside the house as the temperature dropped below zero again....



Luckily Wifey is away in India on business for the next two weeks so I can get away with working indoors for a while.....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


minimad01

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ha that bottom bit made ma laugh rod just thinking surly if you had a centre exit exhaust you would have no problems with space for fuel filter :)
how you getting on with the other project ?

Drop A Gear An Floor It


Rod S

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Well just over a month since I did anything "outside" but as the waether has warmed up I got on with fitting the fuel system.

Tank with vent and return



Extra holes in boot floor for return and pump wiring



and partially installed



The plumbing is a total mess, I just can't get the pipes to run as I hoped and I can't get the big one (pump suction) in at all as it kinks if I try to bend it enough. I need to do a 180 bend in copper but I can't find anywhere selling small quantities of 12mm tube (the rest of the stuff is in 8mm and 10mm microbore and although 12mm microbore is the third standard size it seems no-one uses it any more... well no-one sells it anymore....)

So a complete re-design required.

I'll drop the engine back in (hopefully for the last time) over the weekend and if I can find anything 12mm (or 1/2") that I can bend to run the fuel system I'll test out all the electrics (ie, MS) in the car for the first time.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Rod S

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Finally achieved a 12mm solution to my fuel problem - in aluminium...



It's a total mess, I tried four times to get a double bend in one piece but my spatially awareness was shot lying upsidedown and everyone pointed in a different direction..... so I just cut it and joined it.
The jubilee clips are on the suction hose only, all the high pressure stuff has proper fuel clips and raised ODs on the piping.

So I took the test head off the engine (a standard head heavily skimmed which made up for the extra dishes I'd machined in the pistons) and found this



Although all the testing has been at next to no load, I was surprised to still see my felt tip markings on the crowns considering I had achieved some pretty high EGTs when testing.... as shown by the discolouration on the dual wideband sample tubes



So that looks good from a piston point of view as the Hypatechs, especially with machined dishes, are yet to be proven.

However, also teltale signs of gasket leaking between 2 and 3, more obvious from the other side of the gasket



The block deck was flat by straight edge when I had the boring done (or I would have had it skimmed at the time) but now I'm not so sure, can't get a feeler under but I couldn't find ant Rizzlas to check properly. Also the test head is dubious (I didn't check that before as it was only for testing) so I'm hoping it's the test head only or the fact I used a cheap gasket for the testing. Otherwise it will be a complete stripdown shortly after it hits the road....

Anyway, proper head on, one of Benross's with a proper AF470 gasket.



Next job, apart from putting the manifolds and turbo on, is to sort out some brackets on the gearbox for the traction control sensors before I drop it all in the car....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


joeybaby83

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On 4th Feb, 2010 Rod S said:

Then my neighbour Dave saw me working under the car and came over for a chat.................

3 hours later we had fixed world hunger, sorted out the new Government and I think we had sorted out climate change too... (don't ask about the worthless windmill outside my village that we all pay for).

But by then it was dark and Dave left.


ha, just read that post, sounds familiar

ive learnt to close down the garage door now to avoid the "what do you reckon to my guttering", "do you have a drill?" or "back in the day i used to race these, what you you need to do is....."



"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"



Rod S

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Well I finally decided to put it all together and in for what I hoped would be the final time.....

First issue was the fabricated downpipe - I had jigged it and welded it with a standard exhaust manifold and elbow and it had ended up where I wanted it - I had even trial fitted the whole engine in the shell to make sure.

But when I rebuilt it with the manifold and elbow that Steve (Benross) had modified for me, the alignment was different. Nothing to do with Steve's work, just all Leyland's manufacturing tolerances going in different directions. The worst bit is the manifold to head flanges are thicker on this one so my fabricated fuel injection manifold flanges - which I machined to match the first exhaust manifold - are now too thin....

Anyway,

Additional stabiliser bracket welded in (earlier subframes don't have them)


Brake pipes routed to avoid the wideband sample chambers


Epic fail, I obviously can't even work a tape measure....


Engine minus injection manifold


And with injection system (engine crane is addded support for the axle stands while I'm crawling underneath wondering what to do with the downpipe).

And the problem,


It just hasn't ended up where it was before......
The flexible section (where the stainless tie is on the wrapping) is touching both the gearchange linkage and the top of the tunnel and the bolt for the steady bracket (left of piccy) no longer lines up.

With hindsight I should have put the flexible section further forward (left) where there is much more space but it matches the N/A test engine I built first which had an MG Metro tubular manifold (which I modified as far forward as I could) to make them interchangeable.

Now I need to decide whether to take it all out again and re-weld the downpipe or try and bend it a bit in situ. It's 1.6mm wall stainless so doesn't bend easily....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Paul S

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Good progress.

Wont the downpipe move a bit if you slacken the clamp between the elbow and downpipe?

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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I've just realised what the problem is.....

This is all on page 13 of my build thread *frown*


On 25th Apr, 2010 Paul S said:
Good progress.

Getting re-motivated after 4 months wasted over Winter. But overall, well behind schedule.

On 25th Apr, 2010 Paul S said:
Wont the downpipe move a bit if you slacken the clamp between the elbow and downpipe?

Unfortunately no, the mating faces are 45 degrees rather than spherical. The elbow might be slightly spherical but the stainless adapter I had made is plain 45 degrees so the clamp forces it into one position only.

I've decided I'll carry on, just push the downpipe as far away as it will go, order up some new stainless in expectation of having to change it, but "finish" everything else to see what else needs changing and do all the changes in one go. I remember that lesson (do all the changes in one go) from my experiences on a large French power station many years ago :)

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Carl S
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It's looking great Rod, you're not far off at all now.

Keep up the good work!


Paul S

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Formerly Axel

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Well, I would certainly attempt to use the clamp to pull the downpipe flange into the right position. Easier than making another one.

Judging by the position of the support bracket, it will only have to move less than a millimetre at the flange.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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Rural Suffolk

On 25th Apr, 2010 Paul S said:
Well, I would certainly attempt to use the clamp to pull the downpipe flange into the right position. Easier than making another one.

Judging by the position of the support bracket, it will only have to move less than a millimetre at the flange.


The trouble is the clamp I'm using is one of the single bolt "Vee" clamps - I thought it would be a lot better than the two part cast iron Leyland ones - and it's only 1.6mm mild steel. The cast iron elbow and work hardenned 1.6mm stainless are a lot more rigid.

I'll give it my best shot but I've just cut the link pipe to length now and am about to weld on the joining sleeve and 3rd wideband boss...

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


robert

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lean the engine over a bit towards the screen ?using your super adjustable egine steadies.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Rod S

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On 25th Apr, 2010 robert said:
lean the engine over a bit towards the screen ?using your super adjustable egine steadies.


I can't because of the proximity of all the dual wideband stuff to bulkhead and brake pipes,


But I welded up the link pipe anyway


And then used some old fashioned engineering to sort ot the clearance issues,

A pile of washers under the bracket and,


a 5 ft crowbar on the downpipe....

All lines up now, third wideband installed







Just need to put the injection loom in and should have it running in two days (my target).

Edited by Rod S on 25th Apr, 2010.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


apbellamy

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Rotherham, South Yorkshire

What's that old saying... if you can't fix it with brute force then you have an electrical problem

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


Rod S

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On 25th Apr, 2010 apbellamy said:
What's that old saying... if you can't fix it with brute force then you have an electrical problem


Brute force or ignorance in my day was the saying....

But I just need someone to get this off page 13......*happy*

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

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