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Home > Show Us Yours! > Rod's build thread - new title - TSCi

Rod S

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Rural Suffolk

So, despite my exploding tyres....

Onwards and ....

Second sill finished


A novel way of sharpenning the spot welder electrodes for the back half of the sills,


One sided spot welding works fine again



But inbetween all of this I was trying to do the fuel lines,

My original choice was nylon, but.... after a few attempts


I gave up and have now ordered some copper like most of you use....

Finally, first sill with the underseal on



I bought 6 cans (1 litre each so about 4kg when the solvent has gone....)

and they are brilliant



That's only 1/4 can so far....

Best stuff I have ever used....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Rod S

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Rural Suffolk

Well, the exploding tyres issue is going nowhere at the moment (I had a written report back from Yokahama that said "no defects subject to our warranty cover have been found" despite it being split all the way up the sidewall.....) and VOSA have so far only recommended one specialist in Birmingham so I've slowed down a bit again....





Now able to roll it on its side one last time to fit the brake, fuel lines, and fit the subframes.... then be able to wheel it in and out of the garage, if only I had enough wheels..........

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


joeybaby83

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Isle of Man

bodyworks coming on a treat, have you used that stone chip before?

they sell it over here, and personally i hate schult, if that stuffs any good, ill give it a go

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"



Rod S

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Rural Suffolk

On 25th Nov, 2009 joeybaby83 said:
bodyworks coming on a treat, have you used that stone chip before?

they sell it over here, and personally i hate schult, if that stuffs any good, ill give it a go


Not that particular brand.

I bought a Shultz gun ages ago (cheapo from MachineMart) and some expensive brand stonechip in the proper cartridges (Dunlop) and it was awful, wouldn't go on evenly, kept coming out of the gun in lumps....

But this stuff is brilliant, it still sounds "lumpy" as it comes out of the gun but it actually goes on perfectly, you can adjust the final surface texture by altering the spray pressure, I've gone for an intermediate texture.

Internet or eBay,

http://www.waysideadhesives.com/Anti-Stone...p---40_list.php

http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/WAYSIDE-ADHE...634Q2ec0Q2em322

And if you don't have a gun, they do it in aerosol but from the size cans it's twice the price.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Rod S

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Rural Suffolk

Brake and Fuel lines in....




The 8mm fuel was a pain, the 10mm an absolute nightmare..

Choice of three steering racks...


Finally back on its bottom...


Then the subframe and wheels.


Apart from the exploding tyres problem ( these are down at <10psi just in case) there is a problem with track rod ends....

More later.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


apbellamy

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King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner

Rotherham, South Yorkshire

Coming allong nicely. Are you going to put anything on the underneath??

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


Rod S

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On 26th Nov, 2009 apbellamy said:
Coming allong nicely. Are you going to put anything on the underneath??


Probably not although I have two cans left of the six I bought....

I just did the key areas of the sills, wheel arches and rear valance.

The shell is over 30 years old but just proves they allways rot from the inside outwards...

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


apbellamy

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King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner

Rotherham, South Yorkshire

Not always. my floors are pretty mutch imaculate inside but covered in surface rust underneath. I'll be giving mine a good dose of Black POR-15 .

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


advantage998

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Kings Lynn, Norfolk

Looking good, nice neat job on the fuel lines.


James_H

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Auckland, New Zealand

Wow! Really flying along with the shell now!

Well done and keep it up.

I personally would chuck at least a thin layer of the schutz on the belly. As much protection from the dreaded as possible.


Rod S

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Thanks for the comments !!!

As of sometime yesterday evening (ran out of time to upload the photo last night) now back on four wheels, just missing two of the rear subframe bolts for the moment....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


pinkyandnobrain

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Pretoria South Africa

Looking good Rod. Some really fast progress. Starting to look like a car now.

"So wat we gonna do tonight Brain?"
"Same thing we do evernight Pinky!"
"Try to take over the world!"


Rod S

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Thanks Pinky, now for the next bit....

Arrived today despite ParcelFarce's outrageous fees.....



This is the most basic version of the "partial kit" and will become the fully built version of a MegaSquirt 2 for the siamese code with four channels of sequential and staged injection for the 5 port A-Series when turbocharged.

Paul suggested that "we" should produce a "build manual" for the siamese code and with Jean's support, I have the short straw of the ECU/EMS so everything I do to this in the next few days will be documented and photo'd to be part of that manual.

Enjoy !!!

(Build Manual will be a completely seperate thread posted by Paul)

EDIT - I should also add that the full siamese build needs one (or more) of Jean's add-on boards which I didn't include in the photo above.

But more later in the other thread.*oh well*

Edited by Rod S on 1st Dec, 2009.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Rod S

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Damn, double post....

Edited by Rod S on 1st Dec, 2009.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Paul S

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Podland

I like to keep you busy Rod, else you will catch up and possibly overtake at the rate I'm progressing on the Mig at the moment.

I've outlined the manual (on a scrap of paper) and it is suprising how much needs to be included.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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Well, after getting depressed yesterday about others now overtaking me with the siamese code, I decided to get my finger out...

So I did a trial fit of the engine.







I put it in with the downpipe and dual widebands tubing connected just prove I could - needed to know in case I can't take the tubing out from underneath.

My engine crane is too big for a Mini, I have to take the wheels off to get it underneath


But the real issue was allways going to be the clearance around here.
















As you can see the clearance between the wideband LSU cables and the plenum inlet are too tight, but the sample chambers could be mounted lower and still clear the clutch slave...

The plenum to clutch master cylinder gap is much better than I had calculated so fitting the dual (or triple) injector runners that move it all backwards by 10mm is not going to be an issue.

Tomorrow is to prove I can get the downpipe and sample chambers out from underneath.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


tadge44

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Buckinghamshire

And I thought I had clearance problems !!


jbelanger

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While you still need to correct a few things, it's nice to see that it basically fits and that you're moving along. So don't get depressed, just finish it :) (that's easy for me to say). You haven't been overtaken yet.

Jean

http://www.jbperf.com/


Rod S

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Thanks Jean, I'm actually quite pleased that I'm only ~10mm out on the sample chambers, when I compared the N/A test engine to the turbo one a month ago, I was expecting it to be a lot worse.

If I can get the downpipe and sample chambers out from underneath tommorow, I will just finish it as you say !!!!

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


robert

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uranus

that looks well professionalc rod ,nice job big boy !

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Rod S

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Thanks Robert,

The only thing that really annoys me is being about 10mm out on the height of the dual wideband sample chambers.

It's not as bad as it could have been, but still annoying....

And I'm going to be pissed off about that 10mm all night until I get the downpipe out tommorow...........

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Rod S

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Well the downpipe and dual wideband sample tubes came out from underneath.... even with the turbo elbow attached !!!


I hadn't really thought about the position of the clamp bolt, elbow to down pipe, when I assembled it out of the car.
I'm using a single piece/single bolt band clamp (as per photo) and the position I'd left the bolt in outside of the car was impossible to reach inside the engine bay.

Easy to overcome with a different bolt position and an extended head to the nut part.

So dual widebands can be fitted from underneath. Although I put the engine in with it all already connected, the engine had to be at an extreme angle which would not have been possible with a fixed steel front.

The other problem is the exhaust link pipe - they are designed to fit over an LCB which would be slightly less than 2" at that point so the link pipe isn't flared at that end. Although I made my downpipe to match the overall length of an LCB I knew I would have to cut the un-flared bit off the link pipe so I had a sleeve made up slightly bigger than 2" to join them. But having marked it all up while it was under the car, the sleeve will be too close to the first small "bend" if I cut the link pipe.

So I'm now wondering whether to find a decent machine shop (or even exhaust place) that has a proper roller expander tool to enlarge the existing end or just cut it off and weld the sleeve on ....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


tadge44

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I have always had trouble doing up the elbow to front pipe clamp and now assemble them off the car and feed it all in together (Its pretty heavy and a bit like trying to thread a needle that is 2 inches thick. and weighs 10 kilos.) The clamp I use is the standard cast iron two piece jobby, with the bolt heads welded on and the long brass nuts that Minispares sell.

I did not realise that there was a one piece, one bolt band type clamp available - where can I get one ?.


Rod S

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On 9th Dec, 2009 tadge44 said:
I did not realise that there was a one piece, one bolt band type clamp available - where can I get one ?.


I initially searched on eBay and came up with a few but all quoted by cars (obviously not A Series, mainly Renualt) or quoted by diameter but it was never clear which diameter they meant.

So I took the elbow and top part of the downpipe (it wasn't welded together at the time) into my local independant exhaust place and showed them the bits.... they searched through their boxes until they found one the right size.... but I haven't a clue what it actually belongs on.... :)

My main criteria was I couldn't use the standard two part as it is stepped in size (down to 1.75" for the standard Metro downpipe) and I wanted 2" to 2". Benross offered me a modified two part (2" to 2") but I'd already got this one piece one by then.

It's still a pain as it needs spreading quite a lot to get it over the join, ideally I would like the standard A plus "hinged" clamp (two parts but one bolt) if only it was made by someone for 2"...

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


tadge44

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Thanks for the explanation.

Apart from the difficulty in actually assembling the parts I have no issue with the cast iron two piece clamp on a 2" to 2" join, although I have "eased" it with an angle grinder,my favourite tool, (usually followed by the welder.)

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