Josh's turbo 1098cc carburetion sucks lets try EFI
Turbo Mini Forums

Well its alive ive been bussy getting it ready to run for the first time

As the van started to blow an increadable amount of smoke i decided id pinch parts from that like the head dissy carb

Wsh id gotten a vid or pics bust it was a mad rush to get er going before i had to go away for work lol

So it went really well did thw whole plugs out crank till i got good oil pressure witch i did plugs in crank and away she went with out any hassle straight up to 2500rpm by the idle screw and a solid 70psi oil pressure at that point i was well happy got the strobe on it to check i was ball park had about 15 degreese so left it for now did the whole serch for oil leaks all good had a bit of a mess around moveing the revs between 2-3500 must say well happy after halfa turned the idle down to a grand nice n smoth quick to rev up shots right up to 4k no problem short idle at 25psi oil then shut her down did a litle dance and said time to go inside the nabours will hate me enugh after half hour of straight hedders lol

So now im stuck working away till mid week then ill put it in the van as thats the only mini with rego and see what i dose on the road!

All be it no turbo, hs2 carb and std 1" exhaust it should be fine to run her in while i fix what ever ive done to the 998 thats currently in there lol

Well keen now and will be cracking on once im back from away work! Lol how else dose one build and maintain a turbo mini my wallet is for ever open!

Good skills. Always great when they crack straight up.

Yeah its a relif when its easy kinder helps when the carb is straight of a running car and the 123dissy where you get top fireing then turn it till the green light comes on helps a lot
Im sure getting it to fire up that well off the ecu will be problematic lol

Im so keen to run it down the road once i put it in the van i want to see how the box ratios go wether the close ratios and 2.9 is to tall or just right lol

Edited by Turbo This.. on 16th Aug, 2014.

Congratulations. It's a great feeling isn't it

In the 13's at last!.. Just

Nothing beats a first time start, especially if everything goes to plan.

Edited by giannoutsos on 16th Aug, 2014.

right then im back home and not wasted any time getting her done..

dropped the oil and filter for some fresh 15W-40 Penrite tenths running in oil the same stuff i used for the cam brake in just wanted to flush any crap that may be present from the fresh build/cam run in for the cost of it i think its peace of mind thats all

cranked her over and took a vid for you guys starts nice from cold with no choke witch im chuffed with
the started was jumping out cos the engine rocked and moved away while i was shorting the jump lead on the starter



its in the van now went up the street to check the gears out and yep think im happy with my choice of close ratio and 2.9 fd you have to slip the clutch a little to set off but im fine with that i think at this stage anyway.. we will see went i go for a propa run

just charging the battery up and finished putting a wide band in so i can be sure the fuel is ok

did a compression test come out to be 145psi bit lower than expected witch i think is due to the megga fucked exhaust valves lol they look and feel like 60 grit sand paper! intakes are not half bad altho sucken a fair bit lol point is it should crank more like 190-200 psi but i just wanted to get it running and see the build was ok ill be doing the head really soon and sorting the other stuff for the clubby

having it running sure has given me a lot more energy to get a head done and it in the clubby with all the turbo kit

probaly not a half bad idea running it in NA vs boosted altho not sure how bad it is running the tiny hs2 and std 1" exhaust lol just be down on power a little i guess

giddy up! up wards and on wards! to infinity and be on!

right ive got a bog stock 202 head off getting diped, blasted, magna fluxed and pressure tested for 75-100 aud witch is cheep i think anyways once i get that back ill take some before and after shorts and then do my bit on the chambers and a light tidy up in the ports mostly blending in the seat and matching the manifolds up really not planing on takeing or altring the port shape just a clean up
the chambers will be a bit more work im going to go for the idea of a small valve with plenty of space around it with a small hole under it and good seat work into the bowl/port is where ill find my gains i think for an intake that lifts 0.284 and ex 0.280 thats cam lift so x1.3 for my rockers
i plan to rev it to 6k maby more if its still makeing power perhaps but for the most part im hunting low-mid torque in the 1500-3500 range ie before the boost comes in witch is also the coasting/cruising range

ive started the NA head for the van once ive finished that ill take it down and have the seats and guides done and get that engine ready to go back in the van hopefully at the time im ready to get the turbo kit on and in the red clubby

its all a bit of a balls up atm but will get it sorted soon

engine is going grate spent most of the day in it running around its probably got about 150-175kms on it now?

the plan is to get it "run in" (500kms?) before the new head and into the clubby

still waiting for my bloody tax return that will be my new ACDC high frequency tig welder

not real sure ive made the right decision useing a re build metro t3 turbo thinking a spanking new one whould have been the go never less run it and see what hapends i guess

OK so ive got the head back from its hot tub, bead blast, magna flux, pressure test and check for err flatness lol

some before shots although yet to take some measurements like cc not sure if its been skimmed

plan is to pick the boogers out of its nose and blend the seat into a nice radius ready for the new 33 27 valves
chambers will be pushed back and ill keep as much of the brake as i can to help the flame front burn
the fancy work will be done before at and after the valve seat




typical sunken valves and fucked exhaust seats

see the casting flash near the guide boss

over all the ports are tidy just going to flatten the high bits and get them equal in size



ill blend the intake guide boss in nicely and bias them to the cylinder center line new guide are bullet type



other intake port




waiting for my 33 intake valves then ill layout the chambers may start the port work while i wait

looking nice and clean.. almost new.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

yeah to me its as good as a new casting

well a tinny update on the new engine its still smoking when hot i think this is the shitty head (guides)?
it cranks (cold) 200-205 psi witch is what i expect from the math flat tops, flush deck height, std 202 head 26cc, mono torque gasket (reused lol) comp tester swings past 110 psi on the first revalusion so im guessing the rings have seated up nicely and its burning oil from the guides witch i think ill see once i pull the head and look in the ports

when cold its got its 60 psi at 850-1000 rpm with in no time at all well pleased with that then once the coolant gets to 65-70c its 50psi at 1krpm the revs come up once the manifold heats up and mixes the fule propaly this is also seen on the wide band lol but when the oil gets up to temp (a guess) the oil thins out a fair bit and the pressure is 20-25 at 1krpm still happy with that i think but it smokes a lot im just hopeing its the shit head and not rings...

still waiting on intake valves maby tomorrow or the next day? so keen to get stuck into this new head but dont want to do bits each night rather do two or three full days in long stints to try keep the consistancy between chambers ports ie same tooling same hand posistion

trying to work on getting my iphone 4 to do a time laps for when i start work think it whould be good to see the progress as i go sort of thing that fails ill just take a buncj of pics

well happy at this point the fact that it pulls up decant hills from as low as 1300rpm on the colse ratio box and 2.95 fd is grate by the time boost kicks hopeing for below 3k prefer 2-3k wait and see it shuld pull hard

only just getting useto the kad short throw shifter and the grey ap clutch with the tall gears lol by the time you let the clutch out your doing 8mph/13kph ! thats at idle (850-1000) idle is kinder shit due to the claped out carb and shit valve seats lol hopeing to get 750-850 from the new head and decant carb that hopefully dosent suck air

allmost time for another oil change and filter examination i think too ive gotten a decant amout of kms on it now been useing it as much as poss want it to be well happy and broken in before i pull it for the clubby and cylender head once its in the clubby i dont want to touch it as its going to be a mission to fit parts in/out and will be built on the subby then bolted up so most parts whont come off with out the subby being droped out then broken down

i need a flip/detachable front end but queensland sux ball sacks and wont allow it nether a cage

right ive made a start need to get my hands on some parts before i do much more

once ive got it all sussed out it will be broken down and painted it may be a cheep flow bench but id like it to look the part

i have started doing a few things to the head but mostly planning and measuring trying to find out if my evil plot will work out the aim is maxim torque as early as for as long possible with the least boost pressure i can manage

plans have changed a lot from just tidying up the ports and a valve job haha.. now im looking at fully re shaping the ports hopefully with the good returns

hey josh have a read of this. its pretty handy read, he tells you about home made flow benches etc tips, what to look out for etc.

everybody likes free stuff

On 19th Aug, 2014 Turbo This.. said:
right then im back home and not wasted any time getting her done..

dropped the oil and filter for some fresh 15W-40 Penrite tenths running in oil the same stuff i used for the cam brake in just wanted to flush any crap that may be present from the fresh build/cam run in for the cost of it i think its peace of mind thats all

cranked her over and took a vid for you guys starts nice from cold with no choke witch im chuffed with
the started was jumping out cos the engine rocked and moved away while i was shorting the jump lead on the starter



its in the van now went up the street to check the gears out and yep think im happy with my choice of close ratio and 2.9 fd you have to slip the clutch a little to set off but im fine with that i think at this stage anyway.. we will see went i go for a propa run

just charging the battery up and finished putting a wide band in so i can be sure the fuel is ok

did a compression test come out to be 145psi bit lower than expected witch i think is due to the megga fucked exhaust valves lol they look and feel like 60 grit sand paper! intakes are not half bad altho sucken a fair bit lol point is it should crank more like 190-200 psi but i just wanted to get it running and see the build was ok ill be doing the head really soon and sorting the other stuff for the clubby

having it running sure has given me a lot more energy to get a head done and it in the clubby with all the turbo kit

probaly not a half bad idea running it in NA vs boosted altho not sure how bad it is running the tiny hs2 and std 1" exhaust lol just be down on power a little i guess

giddy up! up wards and on wards! to infinity and be on!

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

norm
yeah id forgotten about that book ill ave to see if its available some place local

graham
haha yep get her done..
at the time i didnt want to lose my true TDC marker the wire pointer where the wok bolt hole is
when i had to put the wok on i transferred the marker to the damper end although not real sure how true the marker is now being moved..
not that it matters ill re find the true TDC when the turbo head goes on along with he crank sender bracket

well i pulled the "turbo" engine from the van today

found the source of the smoke as i thought the crap guides and new seals didn't cut it and it was inhaling a lot of oil lol have to wait till the head comes off to really conform if the bores are good and rings seated up nice time will tell but im going to say the smoke is caused by the shit guides as i turned the engine over with a socket n ratchet and once you get over tdc it flicks over really well what i call the junk yard test lol if it whont flick over its down on compression

the original engine from the van is back where it belongs im going to sell the van shortly now as ive gotten a 4X4 to go wheelin with some mates on the weekends im part way into getting it to be where i want it but need some funds to finish it up so the vans gotta go to meany cars in the yard and to Manny regos to pay!

back on track "turbo" engine is now waiting to be put in the clubys frame and the turbo bits bolted up/final fab work also another reason to lose the van to fund my new tig welder and things to finish it up so i can get boostin..

dark out now i forgot to get a pic down the intake to show the amount of oil in there lol upper calenders have been getting plenty of lube thats for sure.. hope not to much to hinder the rings from breaking in propa

hope to get the engine and a few bits in the frame tomow i know when i see it at that stage ill want to get a dam move on and finish it up a bit faster lol allmost off road for 3 years now...

well ive got the temporary head off and the bores look like this














reused gasket sealed well no sings of leakage that i can see








cam lifters look like this







thoughts?

it looks like the lifters were put in upside down - without the pushrod going internal????

defiantly not installed upside down bud i doubt the rockers would fit on...

those bores cleaned up look pretty darn good.
still see some cross hatching, and considering the oil dripping from above they looked to be sealed pretty well. New toys with the flowbench, but just go steady with the die grinder on that head... Keep at it, you seem to relish new challenges..

yeah im happy with the bores i was running it well rich to try counter the oil burning a bit

well plan is to flow it std at all lifts and just see what the go is then try add material to the ports to find the no/low flow places where the clay/putty dose not hurt mass flow (much)

that is dead space thats hurting gas speed so my plan is to epoxy those places to reduce port volume with the reward of increased gas speed i will follow this out into the manifold as well with alignment pegs to hold the two spot on in the right place

but first ive gotta finish the bench haha love a challenge and doing things my self

well should have take a quick pic but been a while and been side tracked like normal (bought a 4x4 and started playing)

stubby and engine are all built up and bolted up less the head and turbo manifolds so main focuses is now getting the flow bench finished and the head done then i can get it all bolted up

im going to get the rad and IC sorted as much as possible during the week

two and a half years since the rego ran out! gota get her done and on the road again!!
ive had three other cars since the mini has been off the road need to stop getting new projects!!

well keen to get it driveing now spent good part of the day getting the car turned around and the subby in and bits back on making a list of to do stuff sorting wiring for ms3x and generally getting back motivated with the mini i feel today has been a big step moveing forward towards enjoying the min again after so long

well coolant lines and air trap/fill cap what ever you call it are now done slowly getting better at my new ac/dc tig half of what i do has the nice stack of coins look the other is just smoth wash haha just a matter of geting the hands working in time together

cam and crank senders soldred in gona try log them and see what the signals are just need to do the once over to check for lose wires that ave been forgotten about haha saves burning the loom up

still messing with the tps and cylinder head not sure if im going to just go by feel on the head or finish the bench if i finish the bench it will be next year the engine is boosting down the road and if i just go by feel i might get it boosting this year...

progress pics











i should have taken before pics it was quite nasty
there was a step about a 1/4" in from the carb face that was like a sharp ring smaller dia thing it was carp it had to go
the short turn was a lot sharper i pulled that back making it a much larger turn into the runners
the kind of plenum bit was a mess with lumpy crap (flash) and was kinder sharp on the bit joining the runners i pushed that in a bit making more of a nice bend so when the flow goes from 2-1 to 3-4 cycle ie one side of the head to the other main flow is not having to go over that sharp edge (this is the same as in the head that divider must have a good radus)
installed alingment pins holding the main spot on avoiding misalingment mani,gasket,head
the gasket is a tad larger than the mani and head so not to hang into the ports
mani is sharp 90 and head has slightly rounded edges leading in so the gasket thickness dosent make a vortex thing cant really see it in the pic but can feel and see with a torch or scribe its a neat transition
carb to mani mating faces are the same carb is square and mani has slight radius leading in but no dowls (yet)
well happy with this so far keen to get back to it and sort the bowl area going to rough it up a lot and build it up with epoxy behing the guides and cut down the sides to bullet them and blend in
ive got a trick seat design that will be cut after that i can finish the bowls in grate fear of trashing the seats mind you but its inpossible to blend the bowl before the seats are done

OK guys decided to use a stock head just to get it running on MS

Its all put together ready to run but before putting fuel to the carb id like to check ive got MS all set up in terms of when the timeing is and that the cam,crank senders are correctly installed and giveing solid signals i dont really want to be lighting cylenders off when they are not due to and cause damage..

ive allready gotten the oil temp, oil pressure, Intake air temp, coolant temp working and calibrated to read true they are reading into the computer and MS

think ive done a log of some kind but dont think its correct? shows two spikes kinder close toghter (maby cos ive used a alin cap head bolt the sender maby reading the two sides of the bolt head and the gap is where you put the alin key?) and the other shows 35 spikes then a gap so assume thats correct for the crank but not sure on the two spikes for cam??

dono really hopeing its not the bolt ive used and have to pull the timeing cover off and cam sprocket to change the bolt...

anyways if some one wants to help out it will be much appreciated

Essentially you are correct, the green trace is wrong.

The rest is fine and the order of everything looks fine but there should only be a single green spike which should be about 3-4 teeth before the missing blue (ie, about the middle of where your pair are).

eg


I just run that on my JimStim so the timings are pretty much "perfect" but that's what you should be seeing.

What exactly is your second trigger - you say an allen bolt but where, what radius from the cam centre and what diameter head ?
Reason for asking is the two spikes seem too far apart for the sides of a bolt, they are about 20 degrees apart judging roughly from the crank trace (and assuming the composite logger is reasonably accurate on timing).


EDIT - I should add that I don't know what the effect of two signals would be - Jean will have to answer that...
I know the code requires the cam signal to come in 30-40 degrees before the missing tooth (every alternative revolution obviously) but I don't know what two in quick succession - but still before the missing tooth - will do.
My gut feeling though is fix it rather than risk it.

Also, don't forget, next test is to get enough hardware to run a timing light (ie, connect a coilpack up) and check the missing crank tooth is actually 90 degrees before TDC.


EDIT 2 - actually,it it is being caused by an allen bolt, it wont be the two sides of the bolt but one side and then the corresponding side of the allen key hole (depending on whether you have set rising edge or falling edge) in which case I would expect the two spikes to be even closer.

Edited by Rod S on 13th Jan, 2015.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???