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Home > A-Series EFI / Injection > DBW EFI Turbo

Turbo Phil

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4625 Posts
Member #: 20
My sister is so fit I won't show anyone her picture

Lake District

Very nice indeed!

Phil.

WWW.TURBO-MINI.COM


Steve220

256 Posts
Member #: 11017
Senior Member

Shropshire




On 28th Apr, 2024 stevieturbo said:
Very tidy car, a credit to you.

How does the injection system get around the "charge robbing" that is a known problem ?

And this boost pipe looks really close to the hot side ?
https://i.imgur.com/ys1G0ZI.jpg


Like most with a wet manifold design, you don't. It's still present, but target lambda is richer than usual on boost.

The pipe is, but its now wrapped. Inlet air temps are still in the 30s though.


Steve220

256 Posts
Member #: 11017
Senior Member

Shropshire

Whilst mapping for 16psi, i came across an issue where by the lambda readings started to lean out a little above 5500rpm. This is where logging comes into its own! The picture below shows 4 traces - Top is the manifold pressure, middle has predicted fuel pressure (sand colour) and actual fuel pressure (light pink), and the bottom has the injector duty. What's missing is rpm. However, what it is showing is that the fuel system cannot keep up with the expected/demand, and the injectors are running at 100% duty, but demanding 120% (not actually possible). At first glance, i thought that was me out of injector, but what it actually tells you is i'm out of fuel pump!
 

 
So the answer was to upgrade the fuel pump. Rather than potentially buy a knock off Walbro, i went for a DW200 (255LPH) pump and got that thrown in.
 

 

 

 

 
Went to a local classic car meet and managed to get some good logs whilst driving down and mapped all the way to rev limiter on 16psi of boost - Fuel pressure was fine.
 

 

 

Edited by Steve220 on 23rd May, 2024.


Jimster
Site Admin

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9403 Posts
Member #: 58
455bhp per ton
12 sec 1/4 mile road legal mini

Sunny Bridgend, South Wales

Looks great, what pedal position sensor are you using?

Team www.sheepspeed.com Racing

On 15th May, 2009 TurboDave said:

I think the welsh one has it right!


1st to provide running proof
of turbo twinkie in a car and first to
run a 1/4 in one!!

Is your data backed up?? directbackup.net one extra month free for all Turbo minis members, PM me for detials


Steve220

256 Posts
Member #: 11017
Senior Member

Shropshire




On 8th Aug, 2024 Jimster said:
Looks great, what pedal position sensor are you using?


Hi Jimster, thanks chap, using a Honda sensor from a CRV. It's linked to the oem pedal. Replacing it for a Classic Mini DIY custom pedal soon as I don't have enough spring pressure and the current one trips out from time to time.


Jimster
Site Admin

User Avatar

9403 Posts
Member #: 58
455bhp per ton
12 sec 1/4 mile road legal mini

Sunny Bridgend, South Wales

That’s the problem I have , I made my own pedal box (never again took about 40 hours) and I use a twin track potentiometer for the pedal position and it’s too soft and feels crap

Team www.sheepspeed.com Racing

On 15th May, 2009 TurboDave said:

I think the welsh one has it right!


1st to provide running proof
of turbo twinkie in a car and first to
run a 1/4 in one!!

Is your data backed up?? directbackup.net one extra month free for all Turbo minis members, PM me for detials


Steve220

256 Posts
Member #: 11017
Senior Member

Shropshire

Just swapped to a custom built unit. Hopefully this one won't trip out!

https://imgur.com/a/4XsCh9B


stevieturbo

3588 Posts
Member #: 655
Post Whore

Northern Ireland

I used a Subaru pedal for my car ( not Mini ), pedal feels fine in it.
It's fairly easy to bolt to a flat bulkhead, and then just modify the pedal side a bit.


And what do you mean it trips out Steve ?

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


stevieturbo

3588 Posts
Member #: 655
Post Whore

Northern Ireland




On 23rd May, 2024 Steve220 said:
Whilst mapping for 16psi, i came across an issue where by the lambda readings started to lean out a little above 5500rpm. This is where logging comes into its own! The picture below shows 4 traces - Top is the manifold pressure, middle has predicted fuel pressure (sand colour) and actual fuel pressure (light pink), and the bottom has the injector duty. What's missing is rpm. However, what it is showing is that the fuel system cannot keep up with the expected/demand, and the injectors are running at 100% duty, but demanding 120% (not actually possible). At first glance, i thought that was me out of injector, but what it actually tells you is i'm out of fuel pump!
 


Always run safety trips for lean mixtures ( and low fuel pressure/relative fuel pressure ) where possible.

And likewise, run a multiplier based on relative fuel pressure so if fuel pressure drops it will automatically increase injector pulsewidth.
This is far faster and safer than trying to rely on closed loop fuel corrections, which can only adjust when it sees a lean event

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


Steve220

256 Posts
Member #: 11017
Senior Member

Shropshire




On 24th Aug, 2024 stevieturbo said:
I used a Subaru pedal for my car ( not Mini ), pedal feels fine in it.
It's fairly easy to bolt to a flat bulkhead, and then just modify the pedal side a bit.


And what do you mean it trips out Steve ?


It kept throwing up errors due to the mismatch in voltages between APP 1 and 2. The new pedal seems to have sorted it now.

In terms of the fuel pressure, I have a condition that if actual and predicted are out by 20kpa or more, it sets the boost solenoid duty to 0%, which is around 6 psi on actuator.


Steve220

256 Posts
Member #: 11017
Senior Member

Shropshire

Finally dialled in rolling anti-lag. Great fun! Over 4k, push the brake test switch on the dash and it holds the rpm where you have it, give the car full throttle and will boost to 14psi, let go of the switch and the car shoots off! Also spits flames.. because i'm a child.





Got the rocker cover and top boost pipe powdercoated in crackle black, added some heat proofing and reflective tape in the affected areas.

















Cole at Classic Mini DIY sorted me out with his new DBW pedal set up. This has a much stronger spring than the current set up, so makes it drive more OEM.





Time between shows meant i had time to sort the crank oil seal, replace the clutch release bearing and refurb the clutch slave cylinder (was leaking badly).











Then added a DSN oil cap for good measure.




Got to Stanford Hall BMC meet, took a look at the Jet kit on the Minisport stand.. looked awful.



So now show season is over, i've got a mapping session at EFI Parts on 4 November, and the front suspension is coming apart as there's a rattle over light bumps thats been present on the car since 2019 that needs addressing.

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